Technical Parts washer fluid alternatives?

So after decades of washing parts in various solvents I have developed a violent sensativity to varsol, diesel, jet fuel, kerosene, atf and a few others. Is there anything out there I can use to wash parts in that is a degreaser that is not mineral spirits based?

Gasoline doesn't bug me but I don't need 20 gallons of gas in an open container in the shop.

Please help.

 

pretty good luck with simple green at 50%-and my boss hated the smell,which was a bonus!

 

I have the same problem. All I can say is gloves. I hate em but that's the way it is. I bought some thicker heavy duty gloves that are a little bigger so I can easily slip them on and off

 

I have used cheap $1 store oven cleaner, for greasy engines/transmissions

 

Dumprat I just gave away my parts washer last week because I don't clean parts anymore but people have told me about using Simple Green or a purple degreaser I forgot the name. It takes longer but is safer.

Pat

 

I have used paint thinner and on a separate note, Simple Green with good success.

 

I will have to try the purple power stuff.
Simple green is out already. Too many fumes.

I do wear gloves. And glasses, and the washer is outside.

 

I used mineral spririts in the parts washer the years I had one and it worked great.

 

I have Purple Power in mine now. It won't last as long as the "good stuff". It eventually looses it's ability to emulsify any more oily mung and turns into a coagulated, snotty mess. I just have to figure out what to do with 20 gallons of splooge and get some fresh stuff. I used citrus based to dissolve asphalt once. Had a more oily feel. I may try that next. Mike

 

What's aluminum safe?

 

Kerosene is in mine. Been there for 3 plus years, and haven't added to it. I make it a point to keep lid closed when not using tho. I did take a scrapper and clean da sludge of da bottom. But seems to work well. After cleaning, i hose part off or put in sink and rinse. GLOVES are a must. Your hand will dry out extremely fast and crack painfully. Ask me how i know?

 

Kerosene and jet fuel are the same things. This stuff will build up in your system over time, both by contact and fumes.

Some people are just more sensitive than others. I am not lucky in that regard.

 

Engine builder friend uses mineral spirits in the parts washer and orange citrus something in the hot spray cabinet (metal and aluminum). You need to wash off the parts with water (he has a garden hose next to it) before you pull it out of the cabinet, 1 to cool it off and 2 to keep it from drying on it.....it will turn aluminum powdery white.

I use Purple Power full strength with no parts washer (turkey tray ), it does have a little bite if you really go to town with a brush near your face.

 

Aluminum doesn't like the purple stuff. You might try Krud Kutter: https://www.rustoleum.com
I use a combo of mineral spirits and diesel in my washer but it can be hard on the hands. Don't use the parts washer that much. For smaller parts I have a small broiler that I use like a hot tank with industrial cleaner cut with water. Don't put anything aluminum in it. Currently I'm using this from Smart and Final:
First Street Heavy Duty Cleaner-degreaser Concentrated

 

Ha. Luckily i dont seem to smell it at all, with da lid closed. I walk past it numerous times a day also. But contact with me and it tears me up to say da least, in no time at all.

 

The water based cleaners just don't cut grease as well as solvent does. At least none I've tried over the years.
Lye works, but is really nasty stuff.

 

This stuff is OK. Sourced at KMS or Princess Auto, can’t remember

 

Thanks @Duke i have some things to look for. Going to have to look hard at the msds sheets on some of this stuff and see what I can use.

 

i believe "safety klean" or sumthin similar is the company that supply's rags and washer solvent to most commercial shops, what do they use in california where the shop guidelines are so strict?

 

https://www.safety-kleen.com/services/parts-washers/solvent-parts-washers

https://www.safety-kleen.com/produc...sers/heavy-duty-cleaner-degreaser-concentrate

 

I never had much luck with the water based stuff! I personally use mineral spirits and trans fluid. Adding a quart of trans fluid to five gallons of mineral spirits helps with dry cracking hands, but Most of the time I use gloves.

 

It's important to differentiate between the hydrocarbon base (kerosene, paint thinner, mineral spirits, varsol etc.) and the water-detergent mixtures.

The water based ones are good in certain cases, but as mentioned can stain or damage aluminum (and zinc etc.) and can still be a pain to dispose of once they get too dirty. Plus if you have an assembly of parts or even parts with folds that trap liquid, it can be impossible to remove it all, possibly resulting in corrosion over time.

The hydrocarbon based cleaners, often called simply "solvent" are best for really oil stuff, and any residual solvent that may sit in crevices won't cause corrosion in the future.
And they can actually be easier to dispose of as waste heating fuel.

I have found a very good way to clean oily grimy parts such as heads or intakes. I fill up a five gallon pail with gasoline, then gently lower the dirty part into it with as little agitation as possible, and cover it up with the lid or a thick plastic sheet. After a couple days I lift the piece out and let it drip dry, then put it in the sun. Or flip it upside down if it wasn't fully submerged.

The soaking causes virtually all the oils to be leached into the gasoline, so that drying in the sun leaves a part with dry chalky dirt on it that can easily be washed away with a bit of soap and water.

I settle the cleaning gas for a couple days, decant it into a clean white pail, and use it in the daily driver car. Since there was no washing in it per se, very little dirt gets into the gasoline so it's easier to settle out for reuse.

 

I can say don't use Krud Kutter degreaser in a parts washer that is painted on the inside like the HF ones are. It ate the paint out of the inside of mine and ate the paint off a Ford flathead hogshead I had soaking in it. It might work great in a small hot tank mixed with water in place of the caustic we used to use though.

I've been thinking about trying the cleaner from Dollar Tree. I've used it to clean other stuff and it doesn't bother my hands and at a buck a quart it isn't too spendy. Brand name = Totally Awesome.

 

Wow. That actually IS the name!

 

That's why I wonder about things like turpentine and citrus (D-Limonene?). Solvents that are not made from dinosaur oil. Pine trees and orange peels seem nice enough. The citrus stuff I used was supposedly straight D-limonene (there are some that are mostly water), and acted like solvent. It took off a ton of asphalt from a new car without stripping the paint. (Week old Jeep, liquid asphalt truck lost it's load on a dirt road, guess who drove through it. I had to get it off without any rubbing, was mixed with the dirt road). I used LPS Pre-Solve in spray cans. I went through cases. It smelled great and didn't bother me at all. It's really expensive in 5 gallon cans though. I'm thinking what other-non petroleum I could use that is cheaper. My Grandfather used turpentine. I remember the smell. Worked in his day. I need to see what it costs and play with some. I want to steer clear of anything with water in it. Sooner or later you won't use it long enough for it to separate into horror movie goo. That's where I'm at now. I still have a vat of Gunk Hydro-Seal around for carbs and such. That stuff will strip the skin off of your hands and the smell/vapors make you want to pass out. Mike

 

I have been using a citrus base cleaner for over 10 years now and the stuff works great. It is biodegradable even.
The degreaser was not cheap as I recall. I think the stuff ran $90.00 per 5 gallon .
Vic

 

I managed to get a few gallons of bio-diesel, made from animal or vegetable fats, which was sold through some trucking companies here. Works well, leaves a light oily film (good), and is bio degradable. Stinks a bit, but I still use gloves with it.

 

Chemically, turpentine and d-Limonene are "terpenes" (huh!) which are hydrocarbons. So they mix with other hydrocarbons but not water, and are good at removing oils and grease.

We used to have a straight Limonene cleaner at work which was a really good cleaner, and the wife didn't complain about the smell, but I notice now they are diluting it with cheap mineral spirits.

These "natural" terpene solvents have pleasant smells and work well, but will still degrease your skin so if used extensively gloves are a good idea.

I picked up some of this free a couple years ago as well, and use it for flushing really dirty engines and agree it is a much better solvent than regular diesel. The diesel guys sometimes have problems because of this.
However I don't think it's as stable as real diesel fuel, so I recently dumped it into to my furnace oil tank because I was afraid it might soon go rancid, the smell was getting stronger.

 

I started Zep A-ONE water based stuff. Works well enough for most cleaning.

.

 

I worked in a small town Ford dealership in the '60's. The owner insisted that the mechanics used white gas to clean everything. Said it was less flammable. ???