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Technical 32 Ford Misc Projects

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FatfenderJ, Nov 29, 2020.

  1. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    I'm taking my hot rod that runs and drives apart. This makes me nervous because I have a lot going on but the transmission situation has held up putting interior in the car and getting rid of the chevy van column. I have all the parts together except the master cylinder which I would like to change from a fruit jar to a dual.

    Currently 302/c4 going to put in a T5. My dad bought the car in 1961. We got it running in 1995 and haven't done much since. Dad passed a couple years ago so it's hard sometimes to be around the car but it's time to get moving.

    I finally got the garage situated so here we go. Last time driving into the garage for now.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
  2. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,273

    brady1929
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  3. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    When I drop the transmission what is the best way to support the back of the engine?
     

    Attached Files:

    VANDENPLAS likes this.
  4. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,150

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    When I pulled the transmission from mine I used a heavy ratchet strap run across under the rear of the engine and around each frame rail. Worked pretty well.
     
    triumph 1 likes this.

  5. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    With the ratchet strap does it go under the oil pan? Also with fenders I would need to loosen the up so I could go around the frame rail?
     
  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    Don't loosen the fenders to put a strap around there. Thats a horrible idea. Put the car on jack stands, then screw together a good base of lumber to create a cradle the back end of the engine can sit on.

    I personally would rather have the whole engine out because attaching a new trans will undoubtedly create some fit issues that will be a pain in the ass as I'm laying on the cold ground.

    Is the trans you have going to fit the same crossmember? Do you need to modify anything the for clutch pedal?
     
    Wanderlust, 30tudor and VANDENPLAS like this.
  7. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    I'm not sure if the cross member will be the same. On the pedals I am planning to cut out the existing and replace with Pete and Jakes pedal assembly.
     
    VANDENPLAS likes this.
  8. B30FB167-F86E-4637-A63B-50A3DC0F3B60.jpeg

    I have a few of these in different heights.
    Alot of new cars come with them also so you can buy one cheap from the wreckers.
    Come in handy for lots of different projects.

    I would use one of these with a block of wood between it and the oil pan.

    personally, I would yank the engine and the trans so you can get everything fit together and detailed before it goes back in.

    fugure out your cross member at the same time, is the one in the car bolted or welded in place ?
    It will most likely need to be modded.

    really cool car and you should be happy your keeping it and your dads memories alive and well.
     
  9. Worry about the pedals and the master cylinder after the engine and trans are fit back in the car, those are easy-er to modify and kerjig to fit accordingly.
     
    Wanderlust likes this.
  10. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    20201130_041118.jpg 20201130_041038.jpg

    Some pictures of the column that needs to go. Dash insert to
     
  11. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    After looking at it I decided to go all in and pull the engine. Workiing on it a few minutes at a time to keep plugging away. While the engine is out I'm going to remove the ac so I can get the cowl vent working. Any thoughts on how to make a sbf look more traditional? Probably going to throw on a chrome air cleaner and maybe valve covers? 20201202_062605.jpg 20201202_062614.jpg 20201202_062622.jpg
     
    alfin32, Dave Mc, 40LUV and 1 other person like this.
  12. Great 32!
    Just take it slow and easy. One mod at a time.
    My grandson just began his Air Force career at Malmstrom.
     
    FatfenderJ likes this.
  13. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    I think I have everything broken loss. Just need hook up the hoist and good to come out. Hopefully its that simple.... 20201202_182434.jpg
     
    alfin32 and Dave Mc like this.
  14. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    There is not enough clearance between the firewall and head to get a bolt on a chain to pull the engine. Is an aluminum manifold strong enough to use a carb plate to pull the engine and tranny?
     
  15. TCTND
    Joined: Dec 27, 2019
    Posts: 559

    TCTND
    Member

    Lots of people have done that but it would make me nervous. I'd probably pull the exhaust manifolds and bolt a couple chains across the engine to pull it. Put a 2X4 along each valve cover to protect them. By the way, that's a very nice looking car.
     
  16. Car looks to be in good condition, you say it's been in the family since '61? That's great. If you're going to put the hood back on I'd go ahead with the 5 speed, put a decent air filter on in and go. What does it look like underneath?
     
  17. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    20201203_202330.jpg 20201203_202313.jpg I think the body was put on with the motor and transmission already in. When I raise the engine it goes up about a half an inch and hits the fire wall. Im going to try and remove the engine mounts so I can pull the engine straight forward before raising.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2020
    alfin32 likes this.
  18. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    Hopefully the trans has a drop out crossmember mount so you could lower the tail. If not, you could at least remove the rubber mount to lower it an inch or two.
     
  19. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    The transmission does have a removable crossmember. Once I removed the motor mounts so I could lower the engine and dropped the crossmember it came out pretty easy. Wifey was still sleeping so #3 pulled on the hoist while I pushed on the jack for underneath. 20201205_080810.jpg
     
    Hamtown Al, alfin32, Algoma56 and 2 others like this.
  20. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

  21. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

  22. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    I'm thinking of cutting the tab off the support and the drilling through the round tube to get to the mount bolts. Any thoughts on the best way to handle the rear support? Also how to reinforce the cross member I cut through?
     
  23. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    Also a consideration is I need to cut out out the existing pedal assembly 20201220_122050.jpg
     
  24. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

  25. RockyMtnWay
    Joined: Jan 6, 2015
    Posts: 345

    RockyMtnWay
    Member

    That’ll do.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2023
  26. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    20201220_172011.jpg 20201220_171704.jpg
    I bolted the Pete and Jakes pedals to the existing master cylinder set up. It about an inch from the frame where it is supposed to weld. I think it is good where its at. The clutch pedal is pretty close to the frame as is.
     
    alfin32 likes this.
  27. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    Make sure your engine is level, it looks tilted in the pics.

    I think I'd weld the P&J pedal where it's supposed to go (is your frame boxed there?) and then mount the master to it properly. Adding the pedal mount onto a cludgey bracket/mount doesn't seem like the right thing to do.
     
  28. FatfenderJ
    Joined: Oct 6, 2004
    Posts: 211

    FatfenderJ
    Member

    The transmission is at a 7 degree angle. This is caused by the bellhousing I used.
     
  29. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,075

    Beanscoot
    Member

    Replace the front dress parts with a setup from a 1962-64 small block (221, 260 or 289). Best to get a complete setup at one time.
     

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