Technical Flathead water in combustion chamber....

Yes! Please use sealer on those threads that go into the water jacket.

 

Big issue tapping those studs.
Fords tolerances were extremely tight to prevent leakage.
You’ve increase that tolerance by tapping it. A thread chaser is the tool you need.
I’d pull them and install another set.
Need some used ones?
I’m sure we can wrestle up some for you.

 

Use a LOT of sealant since you've carved those threads out.

 

Make your own thread cleaner with a head bolt with slots cut down through the thread to clean the gunk and not remove any metal ,then keep it as a special tool for next time , good to see the Holden headstud sealer I got some last week for a 454 boat motor it's dan expensive stuff havnt bought any for several years ouch

 

Not to get the cart before the horse but has the block ever been pressure tested? Bill Burnham, a writer and humorist, in the days of yore, once wrote with great seriousness that Henry Ford had a man at the foundry who wielded a quite large hammer, and if the blocks that came along the line didn't already have cracks in them it was his job to make sure they did. It certainly explained to me why all the Flathead motors I ever owned had problems that could be traced back to cracks of unknown origin. And, as much as I loved hearing them run, and as fast as they made my rides scoot along, inevitably I came to change my thinking about worshiping at that altar. I would never suggest alternatives to anyone who has the wherewithal to maintain these wonderful engines in the manner to which they have become accustomed, but would suggest that when problems persist that have the word 'water' in them, a back to basics approach would find the root causes that can fixed, yes, to make them live long and productive lives, especially if the machinist who lays hands on them is an ordained Flathead believer and knows how to begin from the beginning. Otherwise I am reminded of another saying that comes from the Good Book and uses the notion that such waste is like casting pearls to swine.

 

Intriguing fortynut !!! most definitely.

 

Review the head manufacturers torquing instructions for their aluminum heads, and retorque after running it til it's warm then re torque then drive it and retorque it again each 5000 miles. Here's what flatheadpete said here on the HAMB.

Start low....25-35 lbs. Then bump up to the required 50-55 lbs. And make sure you re-torque them after a few heat cycles. Do this a few times. Doesn't hurt to check them every once in a while.....

 

Great response regarding those tight specs on head stud threads (in block)
I was thinking about that at first postings...
I keep a notched '53 Merc head cap screw (bolt) just for this purpose; had used 'Heavy Duty Block sealant' for studs/head bolts previously, but the GM sealant came to vision 20 years ago.
Think about head studs with sealant: Permanent installation with sealant.
Head BOLTS? Retorque will disturb sealant, as threads are interrupted. Studs recommended.

 

Hey everyone.
I have been reading and absorbing all the advice intensely and researching all that I can.
Below is a photo of the head studs. One of the old studs on the left, with the new stud to its' right.
I ordered 4 new replacement studs as one was stripped and not holding torque. There were a couple of them in the same condition, seeping water out of the top.

When the new stud arrived, I noticed a distinct difference in length as well as the centre portion with no thread. My observation was, there was not enough thread protruding out of the top of the head for the nut to grab onto the stud when torqued.
They look like a standard set for an iron head, used on alloy heads (which is deeper), there were only three threads protruding above the nut pedestal on the head.

I have now pulled ALL the studs and ordered a completely new set. All longer.

As you can see on the original stud the thread has been squared off on the leading edge. With sufficient sealant (and I have a few to choose from incl GM) and new studs from Mike Davidson (Flatattack, Australia), I am confident the preparation will give a good result.

Next update as soon as the head studs arrive.


Old stud (left) New stud (right)


New Edelbrock 65cc heads.


Before the old studs were removed.

 

X2!

 

Once this is done I will be compiling a list of all the lessons and acquired knowledge.

Titled... 'the things about a Flathead you don't realise you need to ask !!!

 

Things have progressed with the Mercury.

Reassembly has commenced and I will have some updated images and information on solving this issue.

It's been a long 5 months....

 

Interested to see your next update.

 

It's obvious those copper gaskets are leaking in more places than one. Take your heads to a machine shop and have them checked for flatness. Aluminum heads require less torque, about 10 to 15 ft. lbs., than cast iron and they're easy to warp from improper tightening. Tighten in 10 ft lb increments until you reach specs. Washers under the nuts is mandatory as is proper tightening sequence. If you are getting air bubbles in the radiator after repair and it smells of gas or exhaust, you have a cracked block. I see what looks like at least one crack and more than one water damaged cylinder. I think you have more problems than leaking gaskets. The gasket surfaces on the block appear to be pitted, too. One thing not mentioned is the torque on the head studs after assembly. Very important. When you get it running, drive the car to reach operating temperature. After it cools re-torque the studs in proper order. drive it a while and before shutting it off, re-torque while hot. No shortcuts here. Composite gaskets is the only way to go IMO. I bought an engine that had the same problem as yours. It had steel gaskets. Not good. A good and cheap stud sealer is ordinary teflon pipe dope, not tape. Studs are easy to remove with this and it works great.Just my opinion but looking at your engine, it could use a good overhaul.
Wishing you luck.........

 

I don't know anything about flatheads but the first photo indicated there was no antifreeze/rust inhibitor or if there was not serviced properly. I'd be remedying that with all the time and money your spending.

 

Update:
With all the parts arrived I went over everything done so far by checking all the surfaces were oil and grease-free. I installed the temperature sensors and plugs from the Fenton's with a good helping of thread sealant.

515 to go around the water jacket outlet/inlets
Anti seize for the studs
Machine oil to go between the pedestal/washers and nut
Head Stud sealant
Thread locker 263
Torque wrench

Grade 8 nuts
Hardened steel washers
Composite gaskets (Best)



The head studs had been freshly milled and still had some filings and residue so I scrubbed them with oil and grease remover to make them clean for the head stud sealant.


New heads with better clearance in the chamber at least 1.5mm deeper. This will ensure the valves don't tap on the plugs as they were doing with the Fenton's.

Then, I dry fitted everything from studs to gaskets and heads and even wound on the nuts and washers to ensure the anti-seize was going to be in the right places. Note all the studs are now the same length. The Edelbrock heads are the same height from inlet to exhaust, unlike the Fenton's.



The next step was to put all the head studs in with a good dose of sealant, then let them cure overnight. This was a slow and deliberate step as I wanted to ensure the thread had every chance to cure properly.

The next night it was gasket sealant down and gaskets on. A drop or two of machine oil on the washers and placed them all on. The anti-seize was doing its thing as the nut spun on easily.
Head on and start to torque down in three increments. 20ft/lb , 30ft/lb and finish off on 40ft/lb.



It was a good feeling to get all the way around and each stud felt solid. I made sure I screwed in the plugs to stop anything accidentally dropping inside.

 

With one head in place, it was time to do the same on the other side.

Using exactly the same process both heads are now on and sitting nicely.



40ft/lb felt good and it was time to hit the hay.



I got a little excited and mocked up one of the radiator hoses just to remind myself what it looked like.

 

The next day it was about reconnecting everything else and getting set for start-up. Might as well enjoy a little period 40's music while I work.

Custom made thermostats which go in the top hose. Guaranteed not to spin, and the seal very well.



fanbelt and thermo fan back in place and connected up. Reconnect the alternator and tension the belt. Gap the plugs and place them back in leads on !!


A quick run around the nuts to check the tension.

 

I think we are as ready as we'll ever be ???

 

Well.... start up very soon ...update complete for today.

 

The suspense is killing me....................
Hopefully it starts up and has no leaks etc.
Good luck

 

Thanks mate.... not long now...the wait will soon be over.

 

Hi Glenn

I agree with much of what you have mentioned here. There certainly was a lot going on when I removed the heads..and as you say not all of it was good. I have applied lower torque limits as per aluminium head figures. Washers are hardened steel below the nuts. I did have a fear of cracks in the cylinder walls as you suggested. A good check through each one has given me confidence there is no cracking at all. Much of the water was coming up through the head studs, partially going between the gasket and recondensing as water as well as travelling to the top of the stud and exiting at the nut, at the back of the block on both sides. There was minor pitting on the block around the water passageways... I have cleaned it all and used a good quality gasket sealant to mitigate any seepage.

A thorough clean out of the threads and brand new competition studs with a decent sealant should hopefully do the trick. I have indeed selected composite gaskets and the entire top end has had a good overhaul. Only time will tell once it's driving again but at least this time I know what has been done as I have done it myself and learnt a lot in the process.

 

You are completely correct Jimmy. The water and oil that came out was indescribable.
Once the engine is running again I will be doing a complete flush of both systems and getting a good quality coolant for the cooling system and oil for the block. A mate recommended RMI-25 which a lot of mining companies out west use on their fleet vehicles. It has reduced overheating issues across their vehicles by 85% within a year. It will also ensure the bearings in the water pumps work a little easier.

While the heads were off I pulled the radiator and had it flushed, descaled & pressure tested. It came up really good which gives me a lot of confidence. This will really help reduce the overall running temperature considering we are moving a little closer to the equator next year.

 

I love this idea tubl. I think I am going to make a few of those as I now have a full set of stock studs that I won't be using in an engine EVER.

PS ... I used the AC Delco Head Stud sealant.... pretty good they reckon. So I guess I am about to find out.

 

I don't know what temp you are seeing down there, but if it doesn't freeze I'd just use distilled water and water wetter instead of antifreeze.
and make sure you retorque until she stays at torque if you still have a few sweats at bolts or studs you can always use a little block sealer to stop em ........................

 

Quote "After seeing the spark plugs die one after the other in a blaze of blackness & fuel-rich carbon it was time to get inside the motor."

Those little air cleaners are not your friend. It could be part of your original problem. Mine were even larger than yours and I was going through plugs rather quickly. Try running without them.

 

So it's probably about time for an update.

I will cut to the chase. The Mercury is all back together. Up and running, alive and well in another state.

After the long cold winter of 2020 she fired up towards the end of the year. Events have overtaken any updates here with family and well more family.

I was exceptionally pleased to have been able to get some miles on the odometer before she moved interstate earlier this year. On arrival sadly she broke the main leaf on the front transverse spring. So off to the spring maker I went. Two days bouncing around on the back of a car transporter was too much for the 80 year old spring.


Fire up day... I am yet to figure out how to upload the video...



At the summertime Temporary Drive-In movies



Enjoying a beveredge at the Drive-In.



Cruising the capital.



CHRA Club Event....



Out in the countryside....



Visiting the speed shop

 

Next post will be the Interstate journey.....

 

I was just going to post the same.