Projects Joe's American Graffiti Coupe with a Man A Fre (Milner Coupe Clone)

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1955-56-chevrolet-v8-dual-point-distributer.1175052/

 

I'm no help with your fuse panel, but I do know that some of the pertronix modules will burn out , if the key is left on, with motor not running, I melted one once, take a look at the module, good luck!!

 

With all the work to make a quality clone, down to the scary fuel lines, why stop and run an aftermarket ignition?

Find OEM/NOS parts (points, condenser) and enjoy the ride.
Carry an extra condenser and a emery fingernail file, and keep on cruising.

If points concern you, I parked my truck in the late 80’s I graduated from HS in ‘79. I was in HS the last time I changed the points/condenser. Two years ago I pulled it out and fired it up.

I’m in the “old stuff is reliable” camp

 

I think their are 3 stages of pertronix modules,stage 1 is the cheapest and no key on protection,stage 2 and 3 have key on protection.

 

Leaving the ignition switch on when the engine is not running, can cause permanent damage to the ignition system, and related components. This does not apply to the accessory position of the ignition switch.

 

Would you be speaking about something on the order of this ?
This is a unit I picked up several years ago at a swap meet I think,,,,,,,not a lot of money .
Not sure which year,,,,,cast iron housing,,,dual point,,,,,tach drive even .
In really good condition other than being dirty .
It even has a good (2) sets of points in it,,,not new,,,but very usable points,,,,,probably needs a condenser ?
Forgive me,,,but it’s not for sale.
I just wanted to show that they are out there and most people could care less about them because they are points style .
View attachment 4884851 View attachment 4884852 View attachment 4884851 View attachment 4884852
Tommy

 

That's from a 62 maybe 61 Corvette I believe. I think they quit running the tach off of the gen. in 62 but I am not sure. That setup should have a cap with dual windows in it, tough to find, but I know where there is a nos one with nos cap and he will sell it. Not cheap.

 

Any links to a cap like that?

I don't need one, but never saw one.

 

There's a new accel dual window cap & rotor on eBay right now..$ 70...

 

I don't have a link but I will get a pic for you next time I see my friend that has it.

 

Cool! I'm trying to convince my buddy who is in the electronic is always better camp. Otherwise I would have kept points. Thank you!

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That is awesome! Thanks!

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Thank you. We'll test everything tomorrow and look at our options. A dual point would be so cool with the two dwell windows.

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Lest we forget I remember the 50s and 60s Plugs and points every 10,000 miles to keep the engine sharp. My Street Hemi it was plugs ever 2 weeks or it would pop corn at high RPM. Street Hemis kind of got a bad rap because people would not do the maintenance to keep them sharp. A Hemi that would not go over 4000 rpm because of bad plugs was not fast. Thank god for electronic ignition in street cars. Detroit got it right.. I have a high milage 67 F 350 that I put a Pexronix 1 in 30 years ago and plugs still make it for 50,000 miles.

 

I remember changing at 20k , not 10k , started doing tune ups in 1963.....

 

Seems like the old Pertonics units lasted a long time. My first one went 25 years, but it was an optical type and the lens was really cloudy. I replaced it with a type II magnetic which has the key on "nanny" and other gee-wiz stuff. That only lasted a year and died, replacement went 6 months. Pertronic help desk was no help. I think all the new ones are made in you know where (Chxxx). So I put a type I magnetic in and it has been 2 years now and seems ok. Just NEVER leave the key on! I have read on other sites that the newer ones have issues. If this one goes out it's back to points for me. They were fine in my first 50 years. Really though, how long does it take to take the cap off, look things over, set the dwell, check timing and you are good for a long time. Good Saturday morning job, no stress, just routine maintenance. Just me.

 

I should clarify. I’m not trying to talk you out of it, and even though I spent a decade+ on playing with EFI and electronic ignitions, in reality points are much simpler to troubleshoot issues

 

Hopefully we can find just a bad ground wire. We're going to look things over this morning. I'll go either way with the ignition. I just want a reliable system.

We'll get there soon!


Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments. I'm looking forward to finding an answer to our wiring issues. Safety is my most important goal.

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My statement was keep an engine sharp. a modified engine at high RPM did not like plugs with over 10,000 miles grocery getters would go 20,000. Today you can buzz an engine 6,000 rpm with plugs with 50,000+ miles.

 

Great information and help everyone. The mystery is solved. Two things:

1. I had a totally disconnected ground wire underneath my dash. It was connected to the ignition switch among other things.

2. I had allowed the carburator bowls to become completely dry. I should definitely start the car more often. When I tried to crank it I was so afraid of flooding it that I never cycled the throttle enough to get it started.

It only took Rob about 2 minutes to get the car started. We also called Tim and checked the carbs and everything again. They even found a small bind in the linkage and fixed that too.

Good times! It is amazing how the sound of a smooth running engine can brighten up your day.

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Now that it runs bring it over and we will put it on the hoist. Bring Rob.

 

Absolutely! Rob is really excited to show you our work. Hopefully the weather will be nice enough for us to stop by soon!

Happy Thanksgiving!

(Here's a rare image of the original car used as a background prop in another film)

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This is hilarious! The instant the guy mentions he is running a Pertonix ignition all of the experts pounce on it, "that's the problem right there, those things always fail, points never do. Why I once ran a set of points for 50 years and never touched them". You all convince the poor guy to start looking for a new distributor, only to find out the problem had nothing to do with the ignition at all. Bwhaahaahaahaahaaahaaaaaa!!!!! Oh man, that gave me a good laugh this morning.

 

Thank you everyone for your great help along my amazing adventure with this car. I appreciate each and every comment. Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!

See y'all soon....

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Early to mid-1950's, Rochester used screws with a black oxide finish. It doesn't take much for steel with the black oxide finish to rust.

Sometime around 1955~1957, Rochester changed to screws with either zinc or cadmium plating with the yellow conversion coat. Much better rust protection.

When restorers demand original finishes, they "restore" the original problems.

Jon.

 

More formally, this is known as the "Law of Unintended Consequences". Glad you enjoyed the comment.

Jon.

 

Correct. When Tim restored the carburators to original M A Fre specifications he added the screws. I wanted to give them more of a patina so I added a chemical agent.

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A big thank you to Mark Moriarity. He graciously restored my points distributor. Now I have the confidence needed to go back to points if my Pertronix system ever fails.

Thank you! Without friends like you I still would be afraid to change a tire....

Happy Holidays!

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GREAT shot of the kid and distributor. It's a keeper to show him when he is old.