Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

No advice but the hood looks killer

 

Relays made a significant difference in my OT ‘78 Suburban daily driver. Significant. It was important to ME to do it because I was driving hours at a time, on interstates, through deer-infested mountains, at night, in the winter. But for the ‘63 Olds, lighting hasn’t been an issue because that car gets used differently: mostly short, local trips. And although the design of the circuit isn’t the best on either and puts undue strain on the switch and dimmer, that hasn’t been a consideration in MY decision to go relays or not. You most likely have different criteria... different driving ‘life’ of your roadster, 6v to 12v conversion, age/condition of components, etc. I’ll be interested to see what you decide to do.

Keep at it!
R

 

If you do use relays, perhaps use these old style ones:
There's lots on the big auction site, 12 volt ones are harder to find but do turn up occasionally.

 

The relay decreases the amount of current going through the vintage switch. The relay uses a smaller current to manage a larger current. I've burned up a few nice old 6V switches used on 12v systems but I've never toasted one when I wired in a relay. I don't know if that is the reason or not. A lot of old cars had headlight and horn relays. Cars with overdrives have an overdrive relay. There is also a chance that your lights will be brighter if the switch is not limiting the flow. I don't know a lot about this but I've wired a few cars anyway. At any rate a relay won't hurt. My experience may also be a function of wire size. The old 6v systems used bigger wire.

 

If you use a good (not a current low quality imported) switch, adequate wire (12ga) and regular (not halogen) bulbs; I don't see the need for relays. I like to keep it simple. Others will have their own ideas on this.

 

Ditto on the 12 Gauge wire - with or without the relays. Vintage switch "might" be OK - if the contacts have not corroded with decades of time in the box... Re-pop dimmer switch is a flip of the coin - how do you predict quality?

Both my old long distance drivers use relays and 12 Gauge wire. And Halogen sealed beam bulbs.

Russ

 

This should be ok for floor mount type traditional dimmer.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECH...fHLRVrs9HqKybxgy4yTn_pQZ9mHTPqnwaAiZOEALw_wcB

If you decide to go the relay route I can recommend a VW electronic dimmer locking relay. Post up if you want a number of source.

 

I have been getting old stock brand name U.S.A. switches on ebay. Search with the kind of switch along with nos and you can usually find what you want at a good price. Just looked and saw several around $10 with free shipping.

 

Great start up video , your reaction was priceless, thats why we do this sh#t , great build good job.

 

Whoa. Hang on! Maybe you better change the brakes first. Cool piece, every little thing counts.

 

I finally got the blast cabinet over to the new shop. I am just waiting on the electrician to get me all hooked up.

Anybody got some rear backing plates for @J.Ukrop?

 

Ahem......

 

Should I come get them?

 

Like the patina on the hood...do a shitty paint job on the body to match. You can probably get lots of tricks for “patina matching paint methods” here on the H.A.M.B!

 

I’m mostly familiar with the 28/9 so I could be wrong but I’m guessing your hood latches felt very tight to stretch and latch.

With fenders there is a “hood shelf” and a block of wood between the frame and the latch base. If you’ve ever noticed little wood blocks under the latches and the hood sides not quite reaching all the way to the frame
Rail top this is why

 

Hood shelves on 28-29’s only, not on 30-31’s.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

If you need brake parts I literally have shopping carts full...

 

@31Apickup another day another random bit of old ford info learned

 

Or I can bring them to you, doesn't matter. I still have to get them down from their hiding spot on the top shelf in the garage too

 

GO, Joey!!!

 

It never stops! 52 years ownership, 57 since I first drove a Model A and still learning every day.

 

Love the Triumph in front of the eucalyptus like the ones you described on Yerba Buena. Hard to believe they are not native. Reading your work, I'm beginning to see where your eye and inspirations are coming from. I'll keep watching the build and reading the stories. This build really takes me back. It's good to see you getting so much support from others here and other rodders within striking distance to you.
I wonder how much Henry calculated he'd save per car by getting rid of the hood shelves? You know that is why the bolts that hold the starter together are the the same ones that bolt it to the engine. Two bolts saved per car.

 

I see a brown school bus seat peeking out in a pic...
I cut the 4 corners of the back, spread the top 13", bent the top rail down to level... this lets the seatback arch outward like the body does...
.
I have 3 seats, by using 2 backs upside down, when finally sewn together should give me plenty of material...
I like that brown, when together it should look like what a regular guy could do way back when...

 

Hood looks great! And, I really like the Triumph too... May be trying to get one of those myself soon...

 

Just found this thread and you are killing it! That, and you are excited with the outcome...rightly so
Just for thought...
I've been running steelies on my mechanical brake Model A's. I use a 3/16" plate that my water jet buddy cuts for me.
It shortens the stud length a little but not to the extent that it looks like the adapter plate might in your photo. It does make the surface flat to mount your steelies on. The wheels are held on with stock A lug nuts...35 ftlbs torque and rechecked several times after a few miles. Never an issue.
I can lock up all 4 the second, third, forth consecutive stops with mechanical brakes and new cast iron drums. Henry used steel drums stock and they expand when they get hot and give you brake fade. If you can lock the wheels the braking then it becomes a function of the contact surface of the tire on the road surface. Sounds like you have Rocky Mountain brakes planned in the future.
Drive the wheels off, put them back on and drive it some more.....