So the long and short of it is that we accidentally drilled into the wall of the cylinder from the freeze plug side when drilling a hole in the freeze plug to pull the plugs out. The block is a numbers match 1967 350 block . Its a decently deep gouge. I'm no machinist but its maybe 2 or so/16th "deep. Are we screwed here or is that ok being on the water side of the cylinder bore? Just trying to play it safe! nervous maybe that spot could crack or weep or split or who knows what.. Thoughts? Thanks.
I think so too. I'm not near it to snap a photo . I just am concerned about the science of it that I may not understand fully. Namely like if because that small area is now thinner would it heat up unevenly which could lead to a breach or crack? Conversely a small ding like that may actually create more surface area for the coolant and cool it better? I'm just concerned enough to post up what others may think. Thanks.
Probably fine, pressure test. Deburr edge. I had a cylinder welded at top for a casting defect..still running in street car...11:1 327.. Sent from my SM-J320V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So not really a hole but just a dimple? It’s scrap no way to repair it, I’ll come get it with all the hang on parts, tranny diff ... fluff it! I’ll take the whole dang car off your hands total loss, your better off not even looking at it ! You should be fine, had the block had any work done or are you just replacing ( put what ever you wanna call them here) plugs and gaskets ? I would run it and not be concerned.
Pretty sure I have ran way more screwed up stuff than that, but in all seriousness, you should be fine. How much is the block bored?
The block is all stripped and standard bore.. The ridge felt exceedingly small to me so I'm waiting to hear if it can just be honed and not bored. That I would prefer for the ding reason and the originality reason
Any relation to the Tom McGinnity from Westchester NY. And about the block if it was mine I would not worry about it. Pat
I use the channel lock method of pulling frost plugs. look at the video at about 3 minutes or so. super easy
The water jacket will even out any small hot/cold spots. I don't have a block handy to check but aren't the 'freeze plugs' sort of low? maybe low enough that the piston rings ride above the bite you took? If not, at least the bottom of the piston stroke has the lowest compression, heat, and any other stresses.
Lots of McGinnity's up that way and yes related by hook or by crook but not active. I recall the area being lower as opposed to higher so yes that bodes well I'll assume. The block was stripped but I was assuming the area was at about the piston top at bottom dead center +-
Measure the depth of the hole with your vernier calipers.....then make a decision If its below the top of the piston, Especially , you could clean hit and epoxy it ....
No matter what, I would say it is either just fine as is or worst case still savable even if it was bad enough that you had to sleeve that cylinder. I have sleeved as many as 2 cylinders in a .030 over 350 before (that I found the water jacket once a rod came apart) and had no issues at all after the sleeves were installed. That was in a 11:1, 8000 rpm motor. If it were mine and the numbers matching block, I wouldn't let something as minor as that keep me from using it. It has been years since I sleeved a block, but seemed like it was less than $100 per cylinder when I had it done. I would just have a reputable machine shop check it out.
So, to be clear, you scraped the outside of the cylinder in the water jacket? Nothing on the cylinder bore face its self? If so, run it.
Does't matter how "exceedingly small" the ridge at the top of the bore is, it still has to be removed, otherwise, with new rings and bearings, they may "impact" on the ridge (broken rings, broken ring lands, etc). Have the bores checked, and if still in spec, then remove the ridge with a ridge reamer; if out of spec, the block will need to be bored. That may also take care of the "scratch". Wanting to keep the numbers matching block may mean a sleeve if the gouge is too deep, although a different block might be cheaper (blocks can be re-stamped after decking). I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Since you have access to your blunder through the frost plug hole, just dab some jb weld over it. To take out frost plugs, just hit them in with a hammer and pry it out with a brake spoon. Here in the land of block heaters, just everyday stuff.
Nobody would have ever known of your minor error if you'd not posted it on the interweb! Everything should continue as if nothing had happened and nobody needed to know. I bet most have done worse (in different circumstances) and 'got away with it'. Disclaimer - we're not dealing with a Top Fuel motor here are we? Chris
Welcome to the HAMB Wow, rare block right there, and just so this thread keeps seeing the light of day make sure you don't dwell too much on the car it came out of as it is a bit verboten here. But, quite timely actually as a couple of days back, I looked for a photo of a 67 350 block for a half an hour for another thread, was specifically looking for that very shot showing the vent hole in back because someone stated that 350 blocks didn't have it and I knew better. I would say to just clean it real good and epoxy that area as @2OLD2FAST has mentioned, regardless of how you move forward on the rebuild. I dont think I would go welding in that area though!
The 657 block is unique, used in 67 only. Could be used for 302,327 or 350. In this block, 327’s are machined for small journal cranks, 350’s are machined with large journal. Picked up a 327 this summer with this block. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My first '69 Camaro with a 250 inline 6 and a Muncie 3-speed came with a block warmer.... I still have the special extension cord that came with it....
The Jalopy Journal
