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home made tools and equipment...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.

  1. I did, see post 3184. I don't make much, I am not too talented, I come on here for education.
     
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  2. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,214

    ekimneirbo

    Been preaching the benefits of building cranes in home shops for a long time. Always glad to see another example of someone who benefits from having one. I use mine constantly. Raised the bed off my daily driver pickup the other day and its just hanging there while I wait for the pump to arrive. Whole lot easier to move truck beds, bodies, and frames............
     
  3. j hansen
    Joined: Dec 22, 2012
    Posts: 5,203

    j hansen
    Member

    I do not want to be dependent on others being able to come and help me lift things,so I needed 2 traversers (if that the right word).The one on the left lift 250kg ,the other one lift 1000kg. Skärmavbild 2020-11-10 kl. 17.47.34.png
    I made the one on left from a box rail, design for use on doors.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2020
    treb11, loudbang, ekimneirbo and 7 others like this.
  4. j hansen
    Joined: Dec 22, 2012
    Posts: 5,203

    j hansen
    Member

    I may have shown these before.
    The black one is for lifting my Avatar Dodge,the white one is for my OT car. Skärmavbild 2020-11-10 kl. 18.14.24.png Skärmavbild 2020-11-10 kl. 18.14.51.png
     
  5. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    You have a lathe...I bet if you root around you have much more you can share. Big...small...medium...easy...hard - none of that matters, someone here will benefit from it.
     
  6. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    You ain't lying - THAT's FOR SURE!!!!!! I would have to say that adding a beam in my garage was one of the very top things I've done to make working alone easier. I'm planning on adding a lighter duty one above the vertical mill for handling some of those heavier items.
     
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  7. jakesbackyard
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 881

    jakesbackyard
    Member
    from ND
    1. Upholstery

    I know these can be bought, but might as well use up some scraps laying around...tubing, unused u-bolts from a basketball backboard, pipe insulation, scrap foam, a little welding and I have a door cradle to remove and mount doors...works great.

    3F2ED818-55C8-459B-9DB2-A9A7B679994C.jpeg 8D028A9B-9C60-43DF-A83F-07296D2C13ED.jpeg E422A4ED-2941-4C8F-8AE8-A34A9B95C869.jpeg 71546F9E-8D53-472C-ABA7-BB41C354A469.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2020
    chevy3755, Just Gary, TFoch and 32 others like this.
  8. Well, I did make some Sharpies, but they dried out and I dont know how to revive them...:rolleyes:
     
  9. Jokester
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 687

    Jokester
    Member

    I like the trolley idea, but I'd sure like to see some threads sticking out through those nuts on the top. Scary!

    .bjb
     
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  10. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    I was waiting for someone to notice that. :) The steel wheels are mounted with shoulder bolts that are threaded INTO the 1/2" plate. What you are seeing is the JAM NUT. Glad you're paying attention, but it's NOT as it appears.
     
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  11. big john d
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 365

    big john d
    Member
    from ma

    a friend and i built one and used an old household oil furness gun and ran it on diesel you can probaly find these cheap at a heater repair shop you do not nerd one that will heat a house only one that still runs
     
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  12. '51 Norm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 826

    '51 Norm
    Member
    from colorado

    I used gravity to remove my doors and I was wondering how I was going to handle the installation. Now I know, thanks!
     
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  13. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    I “suffered” with my manual tube bender for years before I finally converted it to hydraulic. I salvaged the cylinder, pump and directional valve off some purpose built getup I bought at the salvage place for 100 bucks! The adapters I made are WAY overkill but THAT was the scraps I had laying around at the time so I used it. The interesting thing about this project was when I finally got it going the pump was screaming past the blowoff valve at idle - after pulling my hair out I found out that I had the WRONG directional valve (it was closed center) so the genius before me had no clue what they were doing either! The funny part is AFTER I got the right directional valve it STILL screamed at idle. I eventually discovered that the sub plate was a MARKED wrong so basically that means I plumbed it wrong- yeah whoever made that sub plate was a real winner. Anyways it forced me to learn a lot about hydraulics which was a good thing. I also added a floor brake to lock it in place when not transporting it. It has made this such a pleasure to use I wonder why I didn’t do it sooner! B5080723-37A1-4A11-8DDC-C1E99E7B9E15.jpeg 80E3A8B5-F6A6-409C-BE5B-B5430BA1C8BB.jpeg 3220A2F8-7E13-40FE-B700-656CDB04FBDB.jpeg
     
  14. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    So here’s a super easy one. My mini “project cart is smooth topped which has its pros and cons. One con is nowhere to hang a socket rack - easily fixed with a left over shelving brace. An easy way to keep track of your sockets where you’re working. D76B3DCB-04F4-4A22-9C0E-140BFA5ED457.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2020
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  15. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,820

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    Such a great idea. I just finished one for myself today.

    Gary
     
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  16. Donut Dave
    Joined: Jul 9, 2007
    Posts: 462

    Donut Dave
    Member

    Not a tool, but a rolling space saver...
    IMG_0655.JPG
     
  17. '51 Norm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 826

    '51 Norm
    Member
    from colorado

    I recently had the need to go through a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. I checked the interweb thingy and discovered a nifty fixture for disassembling and reassembling these shifters.



    Naturally I had to build a modified version, that’s what hot rodding is all about after all.
    MK IIa fixture.jpg
    This is the MK IIa since the design evolved somewhat during the rebuild process. Several of the holes got enlarged and some of the bracketry got ground down for better clearance. Not quite cut and try but close. I’m blaming the poor hole placement on my sharpie marker.


    The first station is for disassembling the selector assembly. It helps keep the parts secure and not wandering around the workbench. I had already removed the selector pins when the photo was taken and so I just set them on top for the picture. There is a hole in the bottom of the fixture for the pins to drop through as they are driven out.

    selector pin removal.jpg


    The next station is for assembling the selector. Also shown are the custom tools I copied from the video.
    assembly position.jpg


    If you watch the video you see the reverse lockout spring getting compressed by hand. I made a receiver out of pipe for the end of the “key” to go into. This enabled me to compress the key and spring with a C clamp. After clamping I had both hands available to finesse the parts into place.
    assembly tools in place.jpg


    After getting the selector sorted out it was time to stack the shims and shift arms onto the stacking pin. The pin is handy if you are like me and must try every possible combination of shims and arms before getting them correct.
    arm stacking pin.jpg


    Then on to the last station in order to get the housing and the selector all together. I managed to repeat this process several times as well, kinda made it worth having the fixture.
    final assembly pin.jpg


    Now to find out if it all works. Putting the shifter onto the fixture with the reverse side up makes it possible to go through all the gears. This station is also good for testing the good deal shifter that you just dragged home.
    test position.jpg


    After this adventure I have a much better “handle” on how these shifters work. I think of having the fixture as insurance against having to rebuild another shifter.
     
  18. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    ...Looking for an elusive FUEL system leak. Yes , it would have been easier to modify a stock gas cap...I didn’t have one. Yes, it would have been easier to buy one...I’m Too cheap for that. Have lathe - will travel (to my junk pile anyways). Now I need to find a low pressure regulator as I don’t want to blow my tank apart. 734F9213-1AA9-44A6-88F5-26DA6B09E98B.jpeg
     
  19. '51 Norm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 826

    '51 Norm
    Member
    from colorado

    Have you considered a shop vac as a pressure source?
     
  20. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,442

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Be carefull, 5lbs will start to deform the tank! How do I know?:eek:
     
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  21. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    I hadn't actually, I wonder what they put out?
     
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  22. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    I had heard to keep it under 5 - I guess I'll have to keep it way less than 5!!!
     
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  23. '51 Norm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 826

    '51 Norm
    Member
    from colorado

    I don't know for sure since I never measured it. I doubt that it is more than 5 pounds.
    Finding a pressure regulator that can control below 5 pounds might be a trick.
    I would look at one that is for a propane cylinder since I think that they put out something like one pound. The problem then is that they are not adjustable.
     
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  24. Redrodguy
    Joined: Nov 18, 2016
    Posts: 115

    Redrodguy
    Member

  25. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,893

    Mart
    Member

    You can limit the pressure roughly by just allowing some (a lot) to leak. More leak = less pressure. I did that when pressure testing a radiator. Just apply air but allow most to bleed off.
     
  26. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,214

    ekimneirbo

    If you scroll back to post 3812, you will see where I made a breathing air set up with low pressure. I found an inexpensive low pressure guage on Amazon and an adjustable pressure valve (0-100). The valve works well at the below 10 lb range and is quite controllable. Easy to put the Gage exactly where I want it......but I'm using a low pressure breathing air pump. You would need to reduce your pressure with it's large pressure control down near 10 lbs and then fine tune with the secondary valve.
     
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  27. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,214

    ekimneirbo

    I looked up 3184 and that's a pretty clever idea for someone with no machinist training. Actually it's somewhat similar to something trained machinists used to do. They have a thing called a "drill bushing" that is inserted in an existing hole and it allows them to drill a small starter hole with the same center as the larger hole......so you did well coming up with that tool on your own. Perhaps you have more talent than you give yourself credit for!
     
  28. Oilguy
    Joined: Jun 28, 2011
    Posts: 663

    Oilguy
    Member

    Force = Pressure x Area
     
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  29. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,208

    HemiRambler
    Member

    A3D8A8BB-057A-461D-95A6-0F7C673C27B2.jpeg
    I dug thru my junk pile and found this regulator. Hooked it up to some long hose for few reasons. First I could test the regulator with at least some volume to see how easy/difficult it’d be to adjust. Also I wanted to make sure it was adjusted WAY LOW before hooking it up. Also I wanted the regulator down with me under the vehicle so I could tweak it even disconnect the air if anything started to look goofy. I borrowed a gage off an old fuel pump tester because it goes so low
     
  30. b-body-bob
    Joined: Apr 23, 2011
    Posts: 555

    b-body-bob
    Member

    I once rigged up an air test through the intake of a 440 that seemed to have a vac leak that I couldn't get rid of. Hit it with air, and no leaks showed up, but when I took off the adapter I'd made, the intake was full of coolant. I never figured out how that happened, because a 440 intake is dry, but I changed the heads and intake and the vac problem went away. There must have been a crack in the head somewhere. So I guess the test worked in a round about way.
     
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