Who has the skinny on insulating the floor and firewall and sound deadening the roof, doors and quarter of a glass 34 three window body? Stick on or spray on. Something has to happen as it sounds like a drum. My first and last glass bodied car. Thanks in advance. Jim
I have no personal experience (and, therefore, am fully qualified to comment) but suggest instead of soliciting individual opinions here that you contact some of the larger established fiberglass body builders like Bebops or Superior and ask them for their expertise. I am not sure where your fuel tank is going, but regardless, I'd suggest a "firewall" below your rear window..
Lookin good Jim--- I've used Lizid Skin with great results. Both the sound deading and heat insulation. 2 different products that U ca spray over each other. Spendy but well worth it.
Thanks for the advice. will check it out as contacts with the insulation companies have been a deadend.
Is there a reason you don't want to use dynamat or a comparable product? Unless your surface would delaminate, I can't imagine it turning loose.
I put a kind of dynamat that you get from a heat and ac place that use it on ac ducts. cut your material to fit in the spot you want then set it out in the sun to get it hot. I see your in Michigan, you don't have any sun, use a heat gun. when you take the wax paper off the back side of the material your going to use save it for pattern to fit the next piece
Sharp car! I know of in the past people shooting undercoating, then a sheet of roofing tar paper, and another coat of undercoat. Works quite well. Also dynamat, peel n seal, reflectix type materials work good
I went a little overboard on the Comet, we sprayed both types of Lizard Skin on the bottom of the car and also inside the car. Then just to make sure that the heat would not migrate to the interior I installed sheets of Hush Mat inside the car also. The inside of the 1/4 panels, doors, roof, and firewall were also treated. I would recommend either of the products, the Lizard Skin can be mixed to have different textures. The other day I drove the car and used a laser to check the temps inside the car, there was only a two degree difference between the headliner, door panels and floor. I have big tube headers which are close to the firewall and floor and the heat is not entering the cabin. Well worth the cost of the products. Jim
I can vouch for this material, it's peel and stick and it has made a huge difference in my old beater. HRP
I have used a combination of Lizard Skin and Hush Mat and worked excellent. Double the cost but worth it.
Like @HOTRODPRIMER said, the Kill mat works great and is not terribly spendy. Cost about 200 buck to do the entire inside, floor, doors, roof and firewall of my 39 sedan. and I had enough left over to do the floor and sides of my glass bodied 29 roadster. It mad an enormous difference in both. No more rattling from vibrations in either car. the roadster sounded like it was going to fall apart below 40 MPH, on the free way you couldn't hear it rattling anyway....
I've used Second Skin Audio in several cars with good results, basically the same as Dynamat. I used it in my Model A Sport Coupe to insulate and take the tinny sound out of it when you shut the doors. It's in the floors, quarters and doors and makes the body sound a lot more solid.
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