Hello, I don't know if this is in the correct forum but I wanted to share my build. I recently purchased a 29 Tudor and it was in pretty good shape but the motor was out. Turns out it needed a new clutch kit, and various other bits to make it driveable. This is how I picked it up : I work 2 jobs so it took me about three weeks to fix what the engine needed to run and get the engine back in and make it driveable. This is what it looks like now: At first, I was going to use the stock frame and box it as it is in really good condition. (It is not the original frame or engine). But after deciding on where I wanted to go with it, I decided to buy a frame from Boling Bros. I went with a 5-14 frame as I want this to have a low stance. I started driving it around the neighborhoods in my area but found that the water pump was just puking coolant even after tightening the packing nut. Being that this motor is not staying in ( going to run a Coyote motor from a mustang and carb it), I decided not to rebuild or replace it and put that money towards other parts for the build as it also does not drive very well in stock form. Once you hit about 25-30 mph, it's very squirrely and you never know which way it will dart. I have already started collecting the parts like dropped I-beam axle, disc brakes, hairpins, just to name a few. I plan to chop it 4.5 inches and channel it the height of the frame. Once I can get the stock running chassis sold, my garage will be clear and I will get started setting up the suspension to the frame and also to accept the body, as I added the channeled floor structure Boling Bros. offers at the time of the frame build. As I said before, I plan to run the carbed Coyote motor, but also a Tremec TKO 600 5spd trans and a Ford 9 inch rear with a 4 link and coil overs. I hope to be able to post more soon!
just below the HAMB tag on your ride the date of the gastank's manufacture is stamped into the tank... day/ month/ year .. HIH... '28-'29 only.
So, finally sold the running chassis and got started on assembling the front axle/suspension. I also ordered wheels and tires but the wheels are on back order.
Big kick in the back, can even see a kick up "sweep" in the front, can't wait to see how low it sits. Great start!!! Bill
Also got the front hairpins mounted and tacked into place. All brackets and mounts will be tacked into place with my little buzz box and then I will either take the frame to a welder or have a mobile welder come out and burn everything in for me.
Just wanted to post an update: Went in a totally different direction with the motor. Picked up a couple of Mopar 413 Wedge blocks on the cheap...one of 'em is bound to be good to rebuild. Desktop Dyno says with what I want to do to it, should make 585 hp- 600 lb/ft. We shall see where this goes.... Also scrapped the idea of using a manual. Came to the realization that there is not going to be a lot of available room for 3 pedals. So now i'm probably going to use a 727 or a 700r4 with an adapter to mate it to the Mopar block. This means I will have to modify or replace the transmission crossmember I had built into the frame when I ordered it....oh well... Picked up a Ford 9 inch rear axle, complete, out of a 74 F series. Going to clean it up and get the brackets cut off so I can get it set into place and tack weld the triangulated 4 link brackets into place. Slid the body out of the garage to set the rear wheels next to it to see how she'll look. Approximate ride height is shown....she should be low... Next up is to get the channeled subfloors that came with my frame welded in. Then I'll cut out the original subfloor/braces and mock the body up onto the frame with some help from friends. I've also got a woodworking buddy making me a set of plywood front wheels so I can roll this around easier until I can get my front wheels ordered.
I got the channeled subfloor tacked in place. A few more braces and I'll be able to cut out the original subfloor.
Ended up finding a 200 4r transmission from a buddy, I'll build that up to handle the torque and use it. I found the adapter and it's not cheap....$650.00 but it is what it is, got to have it. I didn't like the wide gear spread of the 700r4.
Does anybody have detailed pictures of the subfloor cut out on an A Tudor specifically? Trying to get an idea of where I should start cutting in the rear....just trying to limit the number of times I have to move the body on and off the frame as I won't always have help available. I did a search but only found some subfloor cut pics of coupes and trucks.
dont know if it would help or not but i have pictures of the my 30 sedan on my build page. starts more towards the bottom. also matt form iron trap garage has a video that helped me out a lot. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/30-model-a-tudor-build-first-build-ever.957114/page-4
Here are some pics of my '28 Tudor rear subrails, sitting on Deuce rails. More pics & details here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/introducing-my-fuel-coupe-styled-tudor.132127/page-3
I've been lucky enough to get a good deals on the big parts so far. 1974 Ford F-100 9 in Just need to cut off the factory brackets and clean it up to prep for welding on the new bracketry to mount underneath my chassis. Ended up with a 200 4r transmission out of a G body. I liked the gear spread better than the 700r4 I took this photo with a potato apparently.
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