I seem to be overly gentle on automotive clutches...as I've never managed to fry one in all my years of driving, so I'm not quite sure what a wasted one is supposed to "feel" like!! I've driven a few vehicles that had clutches that would slip under load, usually from oil contamination from a rear main leak, but never one that was just plain pooped! Went to look at and test drive a really nice looking, clean 62 unibody Ford pickup today and the clutch pedal had to travel all the way up from the floor before it did anything at all! It would release all at once in the last inch or so of travel, and chattered a bit as it did! On the plus side, you only had to barely tap the clutch pedal to shift gears, but taking off from a standing start was really difficult. That means this truck needs a clutch REALLY bad, right??? (I really LOVE that body style...a unibody shortbed...but it was honestly the worst vehicle I've ever driven from a driver's standpoint...aside from the clutch issue, the seating position was horrible and the manual steering required Hulk Muscles to operate! The new brakes stopped nicely, though!) Trying to decide if I want to float the guy an offer on this thing, or just pass it up for something else. I have a notion that a 327 Chevy with a turbo 350 trans would solve it's drivetrain woes...but there's still that steering and seat to deal with! Any advice is appreciated...but the clutch is my primary concern...I don't think I'd be willing to replace it if it does turn out to be bad...but I had hoped to be able to drive the thing for a little bit before diving right into an engine swap!!
Hack, i remember having to adjust the clutch throwout free-play on my long-gone 58 f100 (has the same hydraulic setup as the unit body trucks) years ago after replacing the clutch, as it acted much the same way as you describe after the new install. i guess it sounds to me like an adjustment issue. similar driving position in the '58. very high pedal position to begin with, let alone when all the action happens in the first inch of travel, you sort of have to do the "chin-up" lean forward on the wheel because the broke-down bench seat is like sitting in a teacup. ahh, i miss those days....
It's for sure mechanical linkage (1962 Ford), but I don't know about adjustment. The seller, of course, seemed to think it was just fine as-is, but I've never driven anything that had so much "dead travel" in the pedal before anything happened...it made it VERY hard to drive!
I have a '69 Suburban that did that when I first got it......clutch didn't engage till the top of pedal travel. And when it did, it was abrupt, like you describe. When I pulled the motor to swap in a V8, looking over the pressure plate, some of the "fingers" were bent...the disc looked fine. I had another used PP and all is fine. Never messed with the adjustment. Your clutch "may" be worn, but the PP may have issues. Now I've seen worn out clutches, but generally they'll slip BAD and be noisy, as the rivets are grinding on the flywheel. Or they will be a bit grabby when the lining is worn to the point of no grooves but right before into the rivets, as there is actually more friction surface area.
No way...those trucks have HYDRAULIC linkage??? I never woulda thunk it!!! The seat itself was in good shape...not like sitting in a bowl or anything...it just seems like it was built for a midget with super-long legs and Popeye arms...a very weird vehicle to drive, but a really nice looking truck on the outside!!
From my experience, it sounds like the clutch adjustment needs to be backed out a bit. He may have it too tight which is not really an issue except it can cause premature failure of the throw out bearing. If it is mechanical linkage check for free play in the pedal. You should have a 1/4 inch at the pedal before the rod contacts the throw out bearing arm.
For my two cents, I have to agree with Rick and Sinister, sounds like adjustment to me too. As for seat adjustment and placement,if the floor boards are rusty you might swap a floor and pedal assembly from a '66 or '67. I like the way my '66 F100 truck fits me.{or I fit my truck?} But it is a heck of a lot of work just for seating changes.
The guy just put new floors in it and did an EXCELLENT job...the truck is in VERY good condition...but the clutch problem kept me from just buying it right there on the spot today...I could probably learn to live with the seating position in time, but I wanted to consult people more knowledgeable than I about the clutches in these things before maybe making an offer on it...trying to decide what it'd be worth to me!
keep in mind, a clutch job on that truck is only an afternoon job. offer the guy a few hundred less because of it and hope it's just an adjustment issue. good to have you back with us!
And KEEP THE CHEVY OUT OF IT........putting a small block chevy in anything is NOT a universal fix. Run a Ford in a Ford. A clutch for that thing should not be over $200 bucks and about 3 hours to change. M.
My Rodeo is like that, Hydraulic clutch, works fine rowing throught the gears, but it has to be to the floor for first or reverese. Mine is probably worn out and leaky slave cylinder. BUT Is it an all synchro transmission? I've driven a few old trucks where 1st and reverse weren't.
I actually agree with you there...about the Chevy motor, but like so many others before me, it's what I got on hand! (Now I know how lame that really sounds! ) It'd also work out come re-sale time I think...even though I'd rather have a y-block or FE in it personally... (Hell, the six is kinda cool, an old 223. Don't know too much about them motors, but with a two carb intake and a cool valve cover it could be workable!)
Deffinitely NOT an all-synchro trans...you have to be stopped to grab first gear, although you only need to push the clutch pedal down maybe an inch to stop or shift, the way it is now!
I'm an optimist and I would adjust the clutch. If it isn't slipping then there is a good possibility that there is still life left in it. I believe the word maintenance is now listed as an historic word in the dictionary. They made the rod adjustable for a reason. I think every stick shift vehicle I've ever bought used needed a clutch adjustment. When I picked up my 56 Ford sedan last year, the brakes were "iffy" so I took it very easy putting it on the trailer. I eased it up to the ramps. When I let the clutch completely out it just sat there as the motor raced. The clutch wasn't strong enough to get the tires over the hump and onto the ramps. The "toe play" wasn't unusual but the disc was just worn out. I backed up some, got a little roll and drove it up on the trailer. BTW it's still very driveable. It sounds like a simple toe play adjustment to me.
Sounds like my old unibody (the chatter not the linkage problem). The steering shouldnt be an issue, prolly just needs to get greased...BAD!! I had a 223 in mine and it was OK, but howled on the highway and enjoyed oil at a slow but steady pace. I am buying another one soon, and its got a Y block in it w/ a new trans (auto) but I gotta say, if I keep it, the FIRST issue it gives me, I too have a SBC sitting as well as a universal Speedway style tubular crossmember. I do have it on hand, but I also like Chevy motors!
If its not slipping, run with it. You can adjust out the travel, you need an inch of free-play before pedal gets firm as you push down on it. Most people forget to check the linkage pivots, etc.... for wear. When all is well, the clutch pedal will be at the same rest height as the brake. You will probably find wear grooves in pivots and linkage under the dash. Nothing a MIG weld and grind won't fix.
I'd put a later model 300 4.9L and a the Mazda sourced 5 speed...Use the EFI manifolds and run duals.
Yep, my '60 F250 was hydarulic as well. Check the fluid in the clutch master (if it is hydraulic) and if its low, that could indicate it is low on clutch material. There is no adjustment unless it has a slave and not a hydraulic throwout bearing.
1/4" free play sounds awfully tight , 1" " or more sounds better , really saves the throw out bearing ..
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