Hot Rods Question: candown flow radiators be triple pass?

Just an odd question. I've never encountered a radiator made thise way,and it may be a dumb idea. Could a triple pass radiator work as a down flow radiator? I can modify my cross flow radiator at least as far as the filler neck and hose connections. But will it work? Anyone have any comments/experience or better yet horror stories on why NOT to do it?

 

I have one made by US Radiator called a Desert Cooler. I think they still sell them. All you need is a baffle on the top and one on the bottom. It was for a tri-five chevy. It was a four row type copper/brass. Worked ok but after 15 years it kind of fell apart. Replace it with a two row Griffin aluminum and it actually cools better. Neither one was cheap. Both are down flow.

 

Thanks. I've been looking at racing radiators and there are some made like your old one. Ihave a triple pass aluminum radiator and am thinking of turning it upright, as it will fit the bodywork that way. I am contemplating removing the filler and welding up the hole. The hose connections can bemade to work, and I can use a manifold top filler, so no problem there. My main concern is air locks. I suppose an extra tap with a bleeder in the 2nd top tank will take care of that.

Otherwise I guess I'll have to have a radiator made to fit. $$$, but oh well...

 

Water will go where it is forced to go, as long as the force is sufficient to over come head.
But you are correct it suspecting air pockets, due to the fact automotive water pumps are not large enough to overcome air pockets. Air bleeds will solve this problem.






Bones

 

Won't it take a lot more pressure to force water upward the height of the radiator in addition to the need for the pump to continue pumping water thru the engine? Before you physically install the radiator permanently, why not just hang it in place temporarily and see what happens.........
Also, if you mount the radiator rotated 90 degrees, where would you install the air bleeds? The tanks would then be on the sides.....

 

It takes 1 PSIGto lift water two feet, roughly. That is why the atmosphere can only push water up roughly 30ft. This is why you have jet pumps and deep well pusher pumps on most water wells. Reverse this and a 100 ft tall water tower will produce fifty PSIG, providing it is full.
Since a radiator in a car is about two feet tall, it would only take 1 PSIG to overcome this obstacle. Shouldn’t be a factor. But funny things happen in an enclosed pressure system with regards to flow. But still shouldn’t be a problem.






Bones

 

Thanks all. regarding the tanks, the current radiator is a crossflow, sothe tanks will end up top and bottom. I'm picturing if I do it, putting air bleeds in both top tanks, each end is baffled only the top should need bleeders. I'm thinking ththat the bleed lines should go to the expansion tank, that will be above the heads and connected to the heads as well. Hey I "only" paid $100 for the radiator when Eastwood had a sale on them, so it's worth a try.

 

In my non-expert, pea brain it seems to me that you only have to worry about "lifts, pressure, drops, etc" in an open system. In a sealed system if you draw from the top, side, or bottom at one end, the coolant will naturally recycle in at the top, side, or bottom at the other end. There's no need to over-think it. Put that bad boy in at a 45, if you want to.
The only thing I would suggest is to *burp* the bleeds and top off after each of the first couple-a-three heat-ups. An expansion tank is probably a good idea, also.

 

Now that you mentioned it, my old Desert Cooler does have an air bleed, and it had to be used or it wouldn't work right. You guys are sharp to know that. It just makes sense. Get all the air out of the highest point and it will work. But really, I don't think it worked any better than my original straight 4 row. You have to have correct water flow rate and good air flow to make any of them work right.

 

My only reason for pondering this is I have a 3 pass crossflow radiator that is brand new, but doesn't fit inside the nose of my project as a crossflow. If turned on end it would fit. I'm not affraid of the fabricating aspect, only the will it work aspect. I guess it's worth a shot. Being half Scots (we're thrifty, ok cheap...), I'd like to use what I already have. Thanks for the input.