Technical Top Loader 4 Speed Help.

I have a 1966 Mustang top loader 4 speed in my 31 roadster bolted up to a 50 flattie. I did the t176 Jeep shift tower conversion to it. I came home the other night and pulled into the garage and stopped. I was in 1st gear when I stopped and rolled a little too far in so I slid it into reverse (no problem) and backed up a bit and then tried to put it in neutral. No dice! Stuck in reverse and the shifter sort of was at an odd angle over and down from normal. I bought this shift tower used. I thought well maybe the pivots for the shifter had backed out as they were somewhat oval when I got it. I thought that must be the problem so I ordered a new shift tower. I disassembled the old one and checked all the parts. They looked ok, except for the holes for the pivot pins for the shifter. I cleaned the parts and lubed them all and then moved everything over to the new tower case. Only after I assembled it all did I notice that the cover is a little different in the flange area under the reverse shifter fork. The old cover is straight in that area on the flange but the new one goes in at 45 degrees and then straight. Anybody know if this will be a problem before I reinstall this? I can uninstall everything and cut that section out if needed but wanted to know if anyone has seen this? The reverse fork actually moves back and forth above (below?) that flange and doesn't contact it in that area. Also, I can move the first to second fork by hand, and the reverse fork by hand, but I cannot get the 3rd to 4th fork to move by hand. Is it simply I don't have enough leverage doing it by hand? Any insight or suggestions appreciated as always.

First pic is the old tower underside. Second one is the new tower underside. Third one is the area I'm talking about just to the right of the bolt.

 

I assume that it's a Crown cover? I just used one with no issue. As to moving the shift forks, the shift rail interlocks will not let you move the rail unless the other rail is in the correct position.

 

Thanks Jim. Yes it is a crown cover. I thought it might be as you are suggesting as far as the positioning but it seems no matter where I set them I cannot get it to move. If I remove the two retainer plates and lift out the 1st/2nd fork I can then slide it back and forth. I assumed 1st to 2nd fork goes to the neutral position and then I should be able to move the 3rd to 4th fork? If the reverse fork is in the correct position as well?

Had to open up the small hole for the spring loaded C clip reverse lock out thingy. It was too small to push it into the case. Wondered if it was just tighter in the areas where the shafts drop into the case being new?

 

I also had to slightly ream just one end of the hole for the lockout. If you put all levers so the neutral gates all line up you should be able to move each shift rail one at a time unless you have super tight springs in behind the shift rail detent balls. Also that the two doughnut shaped pieces are in place between the rails under the straight lock bar?

 

Also you might be able to save your old cover. The new replacement shift lever locating pins are oversize and you need to drill out the cover before pressing them in.

 

Thanks Jim. Mine has the pins already in place. They also came with a hole in them so I think I am going to use that to safety wire them in place! Yes the little donuts are in place as well. I checked the springs and balls and they all seemed about the same as far as height and wear and I put them all back in the same location they were in the old cover. I used a bit of engine rebuilding lube on everything. I'll grease up the shifter tomorrow and see how that goes together. I appreciate the help.

 

OK. For any folks who happened to read this to see if there was anything that might help them here is the follow up. When I reassembled the old shift lever into the new shift tower I saw how bad the old lock ring for the shifter was. The holes were oblong and the tangs that go around the shift lever pivot pins to lock it in place were bent down and out. They couldn't create enough pressure to hold the lever down. The lever had risen up and the end had popped out of the shift lug it rides in and gotten locked in front of the lug. Once that happened there was no way of moving the lever without pulling the cover. Good news is I had bought a new top cover as the old one really was beat in the areas around the guide pins, and I also bought a new shift lever and install kit. I am about to reinstall the shifter and top cover and I expect that will be the end of this issue. If not I will update.

 

Another follow up. Shifter was still getting locked up so I am going to replace all the shift forks. If that doesn't solve it I don't know what will!

 

I had this same issue on a Ford truck trans years ago . What I call the shift slider , the part that the fork attaches on the trans was worn allowing too much movement in the forks and rails . This repair requires disassembly of the trans to replace the sliders . Just look at them very closely for sharp edges where forks ride .

 

Sorry to hi jack, but where do you get these crown toploader covers ?


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