Okay guys I’m new to the Hamb but I always see a lot of good info so I’m hoping to get some insight I’m building a 1926 model t roadster pickup sitting on a model a frame trying to go with semi era correct parts wile keeping the brakes safe. So far I’ve got a 35 truck banjo rear a 39 juice wide 5 front axel a 46 59ab flatty problem I’m running in to is I’m wanting to run my model a 19” wires what hubs and drums can I use to convert the wide 5 front hubs to 5-5.5 and what backing plates and drums can I use one the rear? And yes I know I will have to run the wheel supports on the spokes
In 1940 Ford went back to the 5x5.5 wheel pattern. Use 37-48 front spindles,40-48 front hubs,backing plates,drums.These front brakes can be adapted to fit earlier front spindles,but you need to weld the backing plate mounting holes shut,and redrill to the earlier smaller pattern.I have seen guys slot the holes to open them,and I guess it works,but new holes gives more metal to support to me.On the back the 40 hubs,and drums will give you the juice brakes with 5x5.5.This is one of the oldest swaps in hot rodding.On the front you can use 48-52 F1,or 53-56 F100 front brakes which would give the better Bendix front brakes,but im not sure if the "A" wheels will fit even with the aftermarket wheel support ring.
Ok thank you. The front axel I have now has all the brakes and everything on it I just wasn’t sure if I could retain the backing plates and brakes I have being 39 and get some drums and hubs that would work with my existing brakes? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Keep an eye on the parts for sale section here,or put a part wanted ad in.Someone here has a 35 drum.
Ok guys I’ve acquired a 40 rear axel complete drum to drum with spring question I have is since I’m using an a frame with t body wheel base from frame to frame is model a 103” model t 100” wb if I use the spring behind axel with the a high arch spring when I line up the body with the new placement of rear end about 3” further from stock rear cross member location I should b able to run my fenders running boards and splas aprons without having to lengthen my running boards and splash aprons right?? What is better closed driveline on open I have a trans for both?? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It looks like you would have to rework the bedsides a bit to move the fenders to center the wheel in the fender . Looking at the differences between the primered one that is probably sitting on an A chassis and the blue one a stock 27 RP. Moving the wheels and fenders back would give it a lot nicer balance appearance wise though.
An open driveline requires an open drive conversion on the banjo, the fabrication of a driveline, and the addition of something to do the job of the torque tube; while a closed driveline only requires shortening the driveshaft and torque tube. "A" spring on '40 spring perches would move the axle up about 8" not 3" as you described.
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