I have a hard time understanding how holes raise the vertical yield point. Hope engineers comment on this. Greg
I wasn't there, but let me know if: Every hot rod built made it into a magazine, and you saw every single magazine.
I had a factory 1928 Harley davidson and the rods were drilled. Use to see a bunch of carved out ford axles on old dragsters.But they were super light on the front . Lippy
The "Life of Riley" Roadster, which became the McMullen Roadster, had a drilled, dropped, and chromed axle (and drilled split bones). It was photographed/documented in 1956. Here's a thread on that. But to your question, if you want an "authentic" 50's hot rod, there's a lot more to get right. Drilled or not is a matter of personal taste.
F-1 axle, chassis engineering axles, and some other after market forged units, drill them they are really strong and weigh more than twice that of the factory 30's and early 40's smiley axles witch are really light..ok for show but for go I would not do it for the street...most city and towns roads suck big time...I do love the look...my truck has over 70 holes drilled in it that are 1-1/2" and bigger
I beam type axles just beg to be drilled! I've never put one under any car I built without drilling it first! It just takes a plain I beam to the next level, and really doesn't weaken it if you do so correctly, and properly sized and spaced.
There really isn’t much “load” between the kingpins at all. The center of the axle is just keeping the spindles straight. You can drill the shit out of it. Legal disclaimer: so I’ve been told....
This thread reminds me of that episode of American Hot Rod where Boyd and Blue Bear went toe to toe on the question.