I just did this a week or so back. I used brakekleen sprayed on a micro- fiber cloth. Didn’t take much to get the plastigauge off
I think the delamination discussion was in regards to a different engine, not this one. I don't think that's what's going on here.
Ideally you should remove the PLASTIGAUGE stripe with a clean oily cloth or industrial de-greasing solvent, but users may be assured that any PLASTIGAUGE left behind is oil soluble and cannot harm the engine in any way. above is from the Plastigauge (tm) website Maybe an oily rag would be a better choice on the bearing?
anyone have a good procedure for pulling and replacing valve stem seals with the heads on ? they are .530 x .342 viton seals and the guides are knurled so they are not going to pull off easily. my bigger concern is the valves are in the heads. I know the easy way is to pull the heads and I would do that if it wasn't going to cost $200 in cometic mls gaskets if I do
Looks like removal of the bearing coating. Some have a breaking very thin coating. The difference between dark and light areas is in the micron level. Once that coating is gone, they probably look great. The actual load area...is much smaller than we typically belueve. Eng timing, moves the load area at same speed/load condition. I would check the MB ovality at 50% torque, then 100%. May find main bores are not perfect...and use a dial gauge on a boring bar. May find caps are not round. Solution machine caps, align hone done. I was fortunate to work on bearing issues for 15yr, mostly large Diesel engines, analysis was fun times. Eng Oil Temp...is the most overlooked variable. Sent from my SM-J320V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here is a tip that works for me.When Plastigauging a con rod with maybe .002" or .003" clearance, the rod will tend to twist slightly as the bolts are torqued up, flattening the Pgauge in a slight hourglass shape. To prevent this insert feeler gauges along side cheeks of the rod,resulting in a more accurate reading. Greg
One key place where oil temp plays is in oxidation rate of the oil. Above 180degF....for every 10deg increase in oil temp...oxidation rate doubles. Also, there is a max operating temp which depends on oil type....not brand. Never operate near that limit.... Sent from my SM-J320V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
everything im reading points at stacked plate and not tube and fin. I just don't know how the sandwich adapter is going to play with the t-sump oil pan
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I thought the same thing. Amazing what "dirt" does to an engine. Could just be a case of cleanliness!?! 11% OD!!! WOW........bet that puppy cuts-up at low RPM. Luv it!! 6sally6
that cam has a lot of overlap in it and the heads flow a lot. that's the reason for 11% overdriven. at 1 to 1 it would only make about 3lbs of boost. im sure its not a tight blower so I suspect its efficiency is not top notch either
Very interesting conversation I just had with Derale concerning an oil cooler for my application. The tech claims that there is no need for a fan at all unless you are mounting it in a remote location that has no air flow. He says that the fan has zero effect on cooling the oil if its in a location that has air flow like under the hood. He claims that its because the oil is moving through the cooler too fast for a fan to effectively cool it. He also stated that going from a 10 row plate cooler to a 20 row plate cooler would have little if any additional cooling effect. It would however allow more volume of oil. I don't really know what to think about all that. My gut tells me that the greater the surface area that the oil is in contact with the greater the BTU transfer would be. I would also think a fan would have an effect of some type no matter how fast the oil is moving. I mean, the fan is not directly cooling the oil, it's moving air across the surface that the oil is on direct contact with. But I'm damn sure no fluid dynamics expert. His answers and comments only make me want to ask more questions.
I think he was meaning as you were driving the car. I’d think while stopped/ idling a fan would help. But I’m not an expert by any means.
You can easily change valve springs and valve seals with the heads on. You need to make, or buy, an air hose with a sparkplug adapter on one end. Put cylinder at TDC compression, air up cylinder, and get to work. I have a regulator on the line so I can adjust pressure. Changed many valve springs in the pits and in the shop this way.
I asked him that question and he said moving or not. If I have electric fans running on the radiator ( I have 2-16" Spalls fans 1 pushing and 1 pulling ) there's enough air movement. His exact statement was " the oil cooler would get more air movement from the radiator fans than from a direct cooler mounted fan ". Im calling bullshit on that until im made to look like an idiot with some expert facts. I told him I would be mounting the cooler on the drivers side inner fender well so how the hell could it get more air there as opposed to a direct mounted fan. His answer was " it will ". That makes zero sense to me. I have a Derale cooler on the passenger side fender well for the tranny with a direct mounted fan. It works well.
yes, I already have the adapter and have change a lot of valve springs but the guides have been cut to fit TIGHT on the inner ID of the seal. I mean tight too.. Im not a big fan of prying and yanking around on the seals for fear of gouging the guides.
That’s odd. You know, you might want to make a separate post about it. You’ll probably get more looks and replies. There’s some sharp guys around here who may not be looking into this thread.
I agree. More air and larger fins= equal more cooling. End of story! That’s why you put a larger radiator in a V-8 vs a six cylinder! That being said, air movement can have some odd tendencies. But the basics is more air is better. Does the engine fan blow more than an electric fan? Totally depends on each fan! Bones
I guess for your valve seal removal I would make a tool. Depending on your shop equipment, I can envision two styles. One would be a forked crow foot bar that would strattle two sides of the seal and rock up to pop the seal. The other would be two small "L" legs with a semi-circle cut out on the short legs to wrap around the valve guide. The legs would attach and pivot on a top piece, kind of a mini puller, and the top piece would be able to attach to a slide hammer to pop the seal up off the guide.
The Jalopy Journal
