I am building a 1952 Chevy street rod. How much clearance should there be from the exhaust to both the brake and fuel lines? Thanks for any help or advice anyone can offer. Thanks
I'm proud of you for seeking advice before doing: It keeps you from having to "un-build" a vehicle to fix a mistake. My advice, tempered by decades of observation and painful experience is: Mount the master cylinder and booster on the firewall. I say this because when you replace that skinny six and microscopic three-speed with a honking-huge V-8, hefty automatic not to mention big-tube dual exhaust, there's no room left for a brake master and pedal assembly. This is just one reason the manufacturers stopped putting master cylinders under the floor. Put the proportioning valve and brake lines as far way from any heat source (engine, transmission, exhaust) as you can. The '63 Chevy pickup that I have admittedly driven into the ground was originally thrown together in a High-School shop class using a Kindergarten mentality, in other words even though I drove it on the trailer it required another year of effort to fix all their mistakes. For some reason they put the proportioning valve directly across from the exhaust manifold with about a fists worth of space between the two so I assumed it would be good but once the engine got to operating temperature the pickup would go about two blocks before the expanding brake fluid would lock up the front disk brakes, the final solution being to move the proportioning valve to the front crossmember. meaning six inches of separation may not be enough. You have a wild ride ahead of you, remember to build it safe. Best of luck on your project.
Unless he is keeping the MC under the floor like it is stock on a 52 Chevy. And, there is plenty of room under there for all. I ran a T400 in mine.
i ran my brake lines down the A- pillars and on the outside of the chassis,ran them through a hard plastic line for protection from stones etc.the fuel lines are clipped to the lower inside of the chassis about 3 1/2 " at the nearest point.exhaust is wrapped and the braided fuel lines are run through heat sleeve near the engine.no problems
I made heat shields for the close proximity places with 20 ga. sheet stock. Easy to shape as needed. Keeps the brake lines cool with about 3" between the exhaust pipes.
if you ran an electric fuel pump you could run the fuel line up the back of the block and away from the hottest exhaust
It depends on which part of the exhaust system you're referring to. When I'm within 5-6" of a header and there's nothing I can do to change the routing, I use thermal sleeve material. Good for up to 1,100 degrees of radiant heat. You can double-up on these as well by using a smaller diameter first and a slightly larger diameter over the 1st to gain even more of a barrier.
^^^ nice! And if you have some SS (sheet stainless steel), make any close quarters pass regions of tubing, protected by it. If you are stuck at a light, on a hot day, is about the best test case. Fuel or brake fluid will boil, so careful routing is the way to go. If you must pass thru the frame, get some plastic grommets, that shield the tube. And clamp it down.