Projects Another New England build. . . From pieces

Thanks for answering my question. I was thinking of thinning rust encapsulation paint and let it soak in all crevices. Jim T.

 

Thanks Smitty, we wont be around if, or when, these parts rot through again!
I have some weld through primer too but don't use it very often.

 

Make yourself a scrap book to leave on your cowl when at a show / cruise night. Some one did that at York / NSRA several years ago. That way when some restorer piss's and moan's that you ruined a good body, show him the scrap book and ask him if he could accomplish what you have done. More likely than not, he will appreciate what you have done.

 

Thanks Nick!

 

After a sun porch remodel I am back on the coupe project. I really want to put the body together and weld stuff but. . . I need to focus on the drivetrain and chassis first. I need to focus
That is sometimes a problem.
Anyway, I got some stuff done last night. Front cross member swapped out and crank pulley installed.

 

Focus young grasshopper.

 

Thanks for running up north and getting sedan doors, it helped me a lot.

 

I can relate to that three steps back to make one step forward deal, need a chassis for my Roadster to fit the body pieces to. Bob

 

@Robert J. Palmer , you are welcome anytime

 

Got some more done today, errrrmmm, I mean tonight after work.
Installed timing cover and front motor mount.
I don't know if mount is installed correctly
I briefly looked it up but couldn't find anything helpful online so this is what I came up with on the third attempt. I would appreciate a knowledgeable person to direct me if this is wrong, thanking

 

I also cleaned up the oil pan. It wasn't too bad to begin with so I pulled the baffle out and cleaned it up. I need the front seal before installing

 

Are those gears good enough to use, or was the front cover installed just to test things? Bob ?

 

Yes, the gears are fine. I brushed on a little grease so they look messed up in the picture. I got to see them again yesterday because I neglected to install spring and plunger the first time. Was dreading the job but it only took 30 minutes or so.

 

I planned on installing the oil pump and oil pan yesterday but the pump holder screw was NOT playing nice. Brass screw in cast iron would not budge. After breaking the end off I drilled it out and threaded in a 1/4-20 bolt in there. It's a little ugly but it does the job.

 

I have a question. . .
Does the oil pump/distributor drive need to be clocked? I pulled it out to inspect and clean and I did not Mark it before I removed it.
Thanks in advance

 

You'll correct that when to set up the distributor timing. Bob

 

Ok Bob, so when I put dizzy in I have to line up #1? I would like to install valve cover and NOT have to go back in there.

 

put it together. the cam in the distributor is what gets adjusted. the funky pin sticking out of the timing cover gets removed and re-inserted backwards into the hole. rotate the engine slowly till the pin drops into the digit in the cam gear. that is top dead center #1. loosen screw holding cam and rotate it till rotor pants to number on on the cap.

 

@tb33anda3rd thank you sir, sounds simple enough. Now I can put valve cover back on. . . . Progress!

 

To expand on what tb33 said.
Loosen cam locking screw on top of cam & turn cam until cam rotor slot is pointing towards distributor body No. 1 cylinder firing position. Next turn cam counter-clockwise until points are fully open; then turn cam clockwise until the points just close. Stabilize cam with cam wrench & tighten cam locking screw. Re-install timing pin.

 

great work good to see you still pickin away at it...looks like new crossmember is low mount and old is high... no biggie better than the other way around

 

After 3 years of looking for decent doors, finding
"most of doors", cutting and welding on said doors. . . . @sloppy jalopies PMd me about these.
A pair of workable doors, finally! Like everything else on this build, they need work but they are WAY better than the others I have.
Thanks Smitty

 

Nice New England doors! Those Montana / Nebraska doors are just overrated and would look out of place.

Bob

 

Your going soft Ron, next you'll be pulling a Foose or Coddington and cutting up a fully resorted car so you don't have to deal with rust.

 

If you have early Ford parts in New England that dont need the bottom 6 inches welded back on your way ahead of the game. Good score.

 

I always say: in New England if the rust hasn't reached the door handle it's "rust free"

 

Compared to the doors you had, these look like "new old stock".

 

Nice decent doors. You are a lot further ahead with these.

 

"The crank has been sweaty for a long while. It still will NOT spin!
Broke the crank handle trying."
Paging Dr. "Patch" Adams.... well? did you do trans fluid/diesel mix? hot wax? pop the caps off? what is going on with that anemic 4 with all the power of a fart in a windstorm? it looks hooped to me ...I think a V-8 is the only way to unstick that 4 banger