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Hot Rods A 40 Ford Coupe for Uncle Mike Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The 39 guy, Oct 27, 2014.

  1. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thank you for your input Pattereg2003. I took special interest in the part about the different kinds of materials used for safety wiring depending on the type and use of the device being wired.

    I really have no interest in selling the book I made of this thread but as I said before I would be happy to send a CD out with the book on it in word format if anyone wants it. I had a friend ask about getting a copy printed last weekend. So I checked back in this thread and was reminded that it cost me $280.00 for the one I had made. It was printed on quality heavy paper , printed on both sides and punched for a three ring binder.

    Although I was willing to pay that for one copy I doubt if there will be too many takers at that price. I would imagine that some shopping around might get the price down but I think you would actually need a large volume and a different method used to drive the price down.

    Thanks FOURTYDLX! I am also happy about the lack of disaster....
     
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  2. FOURTYDLX
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 718

    FOURTYDLX
    Member

    We sometimes squeek by, the man above ,who knows, but we can be happy about the results,most of the time. I'ts called set back. Les The 32 is the last project .
     

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  3. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Nice pair you have there. I enjoy having a closed car for the cooler or Hotter days and a convertible for the perfect weather days. Although I really like 32's I seem to be stuck in the 39 to 40 range.
     
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  4. FOURTYDLX
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 718

    FOURTYDLX
    Member

    Way better cars, Every cvert is way out of my budget.
     
  5. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,467

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm glad it was repaired and no permanent damage to the coupe.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  6. Guess you have probably heard that our mutual friend Al had a rear caliper come off his 2004 Silverado on the way over there last week. Something about Route 2? His transmission also went out afterward to add insult to injury.
     
  7. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Yes I heard. He stopped by Thursday and told me of his misfortune.He had a pretty long and expensive day.
     
  8. Constructionbob
    Joined: Aug 28, 2011
    Posts: 94

    Constructionbob
    Member

    Have'nt seen this one before.. great work and result!
    I'm in love with all '39/40's with the grille-type in your avatar..
    if I ever could buy one I'd prefere a Sedan. (got 5 kids, so U know where my money is)
    Until then, I build models.. got 9 different 39/40's in the tube..
     
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  9. Rick Hegdahl
    Joined: Dec 13, 2017
    Posts: 17

    Rick Hegdahl

    Great stuff! Thanks for posting these!
     
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  10. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Constructionbob I am glad to hear you enjoyed the thread. I hope you some day get to build or buy your 39/40 sedan! I had to put my Hot Rodding dreams aside until my kids were grown also but I have been making up for lost time since.

    Thank you Rick! It is good to see that people are still finding and enjoying this build thread.
     
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  11. allanjon
    Joined: Mar 13, 2015
    Posts: 51

    allanjon

    Why was the rear crossmember removed? I am at the same point right now on 39 Ford Standard.
     
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  12. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    allanjon, we were not going to run the transverse stock spring, so the crossmember was no longer needed. If you are talking about this rear crossmember, it was removed because the original was twisted. I also wanted a more substantial (tubing) cross member there in case I want to install a hitch there some day. Having the spring crossmember out of the way also allows for easier exhaust system routing.
    [​IMG]

    So far both modifications have been working well.
     
  13. allanjon
    Joined: Mar 13, 2015
    Posts: 51

    allanjon

     
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  14. allanjon
    Joined: Mar 13, 2015
    Posts: 51

    allanjon

    Just curious what size wire, and heat setting did you use on the frame welds? I am patching now, love you photos and creativity give me hope I will finish some day, next is to build pvc tent to keep shop cleaner, wife already complaining. HaHa, but I will assembe one. Thanks for all your help.
     
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  15. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    I use either Hobart HB28-28 Wire size .030 or ESAB Spool Arc Easy Grind .023 with my little Hobart Handler 135.
    Heat settings and wire speed (and memory) varies too much for me to say I just use this setting. I basically use the chart on the welder and then adjust from there. I am really not a great welder. I just get by. I usually put the .030 when welding on the frame and use the Easy Grind for sheet metal.

    The PVC frame booth works well for small parts. Storing the framework takes up some space though. When we painted the Mercury we put up a more permanent sheet plastic and wood booth the worked well. When we were finished with it we just took it down and stored the wood. The plastic was too coated with overspray to to save so it was thrown out. Body work is definitely a dirty job (worse than fabrication dust) and containing the dust and paint fumes is a priority for me.

    Best of luck and fun on your build. Hope you post a few pictures on the HAMB.

    Sam
     
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  16. Outstanding Thread, just read it all the way through. Thank You
     
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  17. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks charleyw ! I see it's to 91,000 views now. Never dreamed it would get that many views.
     
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  18. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    I agree with charleyw, awesome thread!
     
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  19. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

    Just caught up on this thread, love the interior, steering arm is a sobering lesson to us all, your car looks great. Your heater mods and rear mini tubs are all info all be looking back on, thanks for posting.
     
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  20. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thank you farmer12!


    Thank you neilswheels ! I hope some of the posts are useful to you.
     
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  21. Claws
    Joined: May 2, 2020
    Posts: 28

    Claws
    Member
    from New Jersey

    What a great thread. I just started a 40 standard coupe and will be referencing your build often, I’m sure. Thanks again for sharing this!
     
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  22. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Just noticed your post Claws. Thank you and I hope you find some of the thread useful.
    We swapped the coupes 3 speed out for a world class T5 5 speed this spring. Its working well. I need to either add that project to this thread or make a new one. Hope your project is going well.
     
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  23. 34 5W Paul
    Joined: Mar 27, 2020
    Posts: 308

    34 5W Paul
    Member
    from Fresno CA

    39 Guy, I just discovered this thread yesterday and read it through. Fantastic work. Thanks for documenting it. My Dad had a 39 convert back in the forties so 39/40s hold a special place in my heart. It wouldn't break my heart if you amended this awesome thread with the 4" stroker motor build and/or the T-5 swap. If you are postin', I'm a-readin'...(heads over to the Merc thread.)

    Oh yeah, on Uncle Mike saying he remembers it drives like it used to. Ah, no. I drove a bone stock 40 deluxe a few years ago, it's absolutely not at all as you have described driving your hand crafted baby blue gem. Buckboard/truck type ride in the stocker...ride height so high you can crawl under it without jacking it up at all.
     
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  24. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thank you 34 5W Paul, It's always nice to get a compliment on this thread. As to the cars ride qualities, I have never driven a completely stock 40 but imagine this one does ride a little better than stock. It is still a time capsule though that brings a smile to my face every time I drive it. It actually rides better than my 39 Ford convertible with Mustang 2 front end. I have to admit that the rack and pinion on the 39 steers a little better though. I love both cars though and I am happy that they have such different personalities.
    Sam
     
  25. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    The following Posts are an ecerpt form my maintenance log ( A word Document.) It appears it will take two or three posts to get all of the pictures to load even though the text could have been done in one. Several of you had asked me to post this stuff and I thought it would be a good idea to cover it in the thread. So here goes please be pateint as i figure out how to do this.

    Date: 10/01/19

    Mileage: 4600

    Projects:

    Since the engine was rebuilt two years ago it has been run about 2000 miles. A year ago we checked the compression and saw that we had two cylinders that were significantly lower than the other 6. We had plenty of projects to do and decided to just run the engine around town to local shows and keep an eye on it. In July while at a show in Cashmere I noticed the transmission was making a clunk sound in 1st and 2nd gear. It drove fine in third and 3rd Overdrive. Si drove it home and parked it for the rest of the summer.

    We finally had time to do compression check and leak down test on September 25th. Results are as follows.

    Drivers Side

    Passenger Side

    #5 155

    #1 15520

    #6 135

    #2 90

    #7 140

    #3 135120

    #8 155

    #4 60

    Compare this to a test done in 2016 before the engine was rebuilt with a 4 “ SCAT crank and from the initial startup compression check with the first engine combination. (See below)

    Drivers Side

    Passenger Side

    #5 125

    #1 120

    #6 110

    #2 122

    #7 115

    #3 120

    #8 120

    #4 120



    Compared to the initial start up results after re-torqueing the Heads On 04-8-15 you can see there has been some improvement in the compression over the first 500 miles.

    Drivers Side

    Passenger Side

    #5 125

    #1 115

    #6 100

    #2 110

    #7 115

    #3 110

    #8 115

    #4 120





    January 8 2020

    We only did leak down tests on cylinders 1 and 4 on 09/25/19. The both showed leakage from the exhaust valves. So we will pull the engine pull the right side head and try to fix those two valves leaving the rest of the engine as intact as possible.

    The Engine was taken to Jerrys Auto machine shop in December 2019. We requested that they regrind and lap all six valves of cylinders 2,3and 4. The machinist noted that the exhaust valve on in #2 was burned and cracked. It was clear that the seat was not seating well. #4 valve seat looked like it had been ground poorly also. When we went to pick up the engine I asked the machinist if he had ground all six valves. He had not. He said they looked good to him. I was insistent that he do the intake valves. So he did a vacuum test on the three intake valves and found one in cylinder #2 intake was not sealing. So he agreed to grind that valve. The #2 exhaust valve was replaced with a new valve. He only charged me around $70.00 so he must have considered it as somewhat of a warranty project after I mentioned I had only put about 1500 miles on the motor since his last valve job.

    September 25th 2019 results

    Drivers Side

    Passenger Side

    #5 155

    #1 15520

    #6 135

    #2 90

    #7 140

    #3 135120

    #8 155

    #4 60



    January 8th 2020 results

    Drivers Side

    Passenger Side

    #5 160

    #1 145

    #6 145

    #2 135

    #7 150

    #3 140

    #8 15515

    #4 140



    We did another compression check on the engine on the 8th of January 2020. First the cylinder head was installed with a new gasket. Copper Coat gasket sealant was applied to both sides of the gasket and the studs shafts were coated with aluminum never seize compound. The heads were torqued as per Edelbrocks instructions to 20,40, 50 and finally 60 ft pounds. All of the valves were adjusted to .010 Intake and .012 Exhaust. A little WD 40 was sprayed into each cylinder before testing. The test was done with engine still on the engine stand.

    As you can see the results show a big improvement in cylinders 2 and 4.Next step is the install.





    Transmission

    Inspection of the transmission revealed two teeth on the input shaft gear were broken off of the gear. I was able to buy a new gear from Van Pelt Sales. I wanted a NOS gear but none were available so a new one will have to do. Under close inspection rust had formed under in a crack at the bottom of the tooth. It looks like the rusty tooth ripped the second tooth off when it gave up. We had hoped we could replace the gear without taking the overdrive unit off but found it had to come off to access the cluster gear which must be dropped down in the case for disassembly. While we had the over drive unit out I noticed that the large ball bearing in the back of the transmission and the overdrive unit were making a growling noise. So I decided to replace them. We also decided to replace the thrust washers on both ends of the cluster gear since they are fairly inexpensive and a tight clearance is supposed to help keep the transmission in 2nd gear under compression.



    Installing the transmission:

    We waited to install the governor, lock out switch and OD solenoid until the transmission was in the car. We put the transmission on a transmission jack before sliding it under the car. The transmission was then lifted into position and the transmission mount bolts installed. A 3 foot long 2” x ½” bar was then laid on top of the wishbone and the transmission jack was removed leaving the transmission supported by the bar on the wishbone.

    NAPA SAE 90 Weight Mineral Gear Oil API GL-1 #65-201 was recommended for the transmission and I had used it before. It took two quarts to fill the transmission The oil was added until it reached the bottom of the fill holes threads.. I filled the OD unit first then filled the transmission. This was done with the transmission in the car (loosely). NOTE: the drive shaft should be installed into the back of the transmission before filling. Do not attach the driveshaft to the rear end at this time. I supported the back of the drive shaft with a shop stool so as to not deform the tail shaft seal. The engine had not been installed yet. I had to transfer the oil from the gallon container it came in to one a quart container used for rear end grease. This was done so I could use the hand pump and hose gizmo that is usually used for filling rear ends.









    Engine

    Filter WIX Gold #1515 Similar to PH8 Fram

    Oil 5 qrts SAE30 WT

    15 oz. STP Oil Treatment with ZDDP

    Started engine 1/27/20 It ran fine.

    The engine timing was set at 8 initial and 22@ 2000 RPM without vacuum advance. After some homework we intend to hook up the vacuum advance. We did not do it initially because the timing advanced to 44 with the vacuum hooked up. After further study we understand that the vacuum advance should increase fuel mileage. We intend to test that theory.

    Wheel spacers: 1/27/20 Installed ¼ inch aluminum wheel spacers on the front hubs. The steering arm on the right front spindle has been rubbing on the inside of the right front tire. I also added air to 32 pounds in the front tires. I now have almost a half inch of clearance between the tire and arm now. Now I just need to see if I still have enough fender clearance.



    Transmission: With the car up on jack stands it was obvious the transmission was not going to function correctly. We had to remove the engine and transmission again to see what was wrong. I had installed the first and reverse shifting fork 180 degreed off which effectively kept the transmission form shifting.

    As I had told Don before we repaired and installed this transmission this time that if it had to come out again I would be switching to a T5. Although the Mercury transmission is fine now I will not be reinstalling it.

    T5 Project

    I have purchased a World Class T5 transmission out of a 1993 S10 pick up that would have been equipped with a 2.8 V6. The part number tag is 1352-222. I paid 325.00 for the Transmission. It was located in Rathdrum Idaho. My son Joe made the purchase and later transported the transmission to Moses Lake for me to pick up.. The Transmission received a full rebuild kit and rebuild with all new synchro’s and bearings at George Wilders Transmission Shop here in Wenatchee/Cost of the rebuild was $603.93 . The parts kit for the WC Transmission was $356.61 which is a lot more than a typical S10 kit.





    upload_2020-9-30_21-10-33.png

    To make the transmission work in the 40 I had to buy a few more things.

    From Speedway;

    916-29517 Release Bearing Adapter FH to T5 $ 29.99

    916-29520 GM Trans/Flathead Pilot Bearing $14.99

    550-6943 Clutch installation tool $7.99

    910-15643 Flathead 9” Disc 1” 14 $84.99

    Sub Total $137.96

    Total with $11.44 tax149.40

    From Summit

    GIS-1018L Gennie Swan Shifter $99.00

    GIS-1005 Shift Boot Kit $53.99

    GIS-1070 Shift Knob Adater LO-D $49.99

    Sub Total $202.98

    Estimated Tax $20.00

    Total $222.98

    From Rock Auto

    HP3835 Speed Sensor Connector Including Shipping and handling $8.03

    Dex/Merc Transmission Fluid 2 Quarts Used just 65oz to fill the transmission

    From Driveline Service

    Modified the Drive Shaft Total with Tax $233.28

    S10 to Flathead adapter bought from Dave Mehealic $100.00

    From Cornhusker Rod and Custom A clutch Shaft $65.00

    Core Shifters Shifter for use with 10” tall mount stick $197.64

    Cascade Auto Restorations Fixing the Carpet $400.00

    Total before Cascades bill and without a few misc. items I missed $2305.76

    Sold the 3 Speed OD Transmission $500.00

    Total $1805.76

    The T5 Project Installation:

    upload_2020-9-30_21-10-57.png upload_2020-9-30_21-11-10.png


    Dimensions

    Dimensions for the T5 were very similar to the 3Speed OD but some modifications were required.



    upload_2020-9-30_21-11-27.png
    The X member box had been heavily modified for the 3 speed OD but would need further modifications to fit the T5.











    The front of the box had to be cut down to allow access to the transmission mount bolts. I had to leave enough metal to support the wish bone. I had already put an 1/8” plate behind the original X box face.
    upload_2020-9-30_21-12-5.png

    upload_2020-9-30_21-12-24.png

    The typical Chevrolet 350 Turbo type mount was reused from the previous 3 speed install.one spacer plate had been used in the previous install but we added one more to get a little more space between the transmission and the stock wishbone.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-12-51.png

    The mount was modified and the plate that bolts to the transmission (black) was shortened for this application.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-13-13.png

    upload_2020-9-30_21-13-34.png


    upload_2020-9-30_21-13-51.png

    After Modifications

    upload_2020-9-30_21-14-10.png

    upload_2020-9-30_21-14-27.png

    I had to modify the X frame support I had made to allow room for the solenoid of the 3 speed OD.A new plate for the top of the X box had to be made.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-14-56.png

    The piece on the left was made from 3 ½ inch schedule 40 pipe. It replaced the X member top cover that had previously used in the original modification to X member.



    upload_2020-9-30_21-15-18.png

    Some of the transmission casting had to be ground off for more clearance between the wishbone and transmission.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-15-35.png

    That fin sticking down from the body of the transmission was cut off too.



    5Project : 03/21/20 Added 65 oz of DEX/MERC transmission oil to the transmission.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-15-59.png

    You can see an adapter bushing that has to be installed on the stock T5 throw out bearing and bearing cap

    upload_2020-9-30_21-16-15.png upload_2020-9-30_21-16-29.png

    The throw out bearing fork had to be honed to fit the new shaft.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-16-46.png

    The adapter did not have provision for grease fittings so I drilled and tapped for one on each side. upload_2020-9-30_21-17-8.png

    I had to buy a new clutch shaft because the original one was too short for the new adapter.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-17-30.png

    The old pilot bearing bushing had to be replaced with a new one. To get the old one out of the flywheel I took the advice of a Greg Landis and used bread. I had tried grease but that did not work.



    upload_2020-9-30_21-17-55.png

    You fill the hole with bread and then use a piece of round stock that fits tightly into the bearing and a dead blow hammer. It took at least one piece of wheat bread and a lot of hammering but it finally came out. The bearing seal on the back side was destroyed but I did not plan to reuse it anyway.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-18-17.png

    After installing the new bearing I installed the new clutch and pressure plate.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-18-33.png

    The transmission sits higher than the stock transmission. I had a spare transmission cover sitting around so it was used for the new install. I cut the top off for starters so I could see where to start.









    upload_2020-9-30_21-18-54.png

    After this trial fit I decided the cover needed to be widened 1 inch and that a new top cap would have to be made.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-19-17.png

    I left the base outside dimensions alone but cut ½” out of each side to widen the front cover 1 inch.



    upload_2020-9-30_21-19-34.png

    A new cover was bent from 18 gauge metal It was formed over a piece of pipe and the flanges bent on the HF break.

    upload_2020-9-30_21-19-52.png

    upload_2020-9-30_21-20-37.png

    The new hump was welded on before I trimmed away the rest of the floor pan

    That's the end of the first post due to picture capacity.
     

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  26. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    upload_2020-9-30_22-5-52.png

    Cover with the rest of the floor cut away.







    upload_2020-9-30_22-6-20.png

    Welding finished



    upload_2020-9-30_22-6-36.png

    I had to make new cover for the one that I made to cover the hole in the floor that was used to service the governor of the previous 3 speed OD transmission.



    upload_2020-9-30_22-6-51.png
    The new cover fits in the passenger side just behind the transmission cover.















    I should mention the shifter (It comes from CORE Shifters). It has a shorter shift throw than a stock S 10 It is made for a 10”or more tall shifter.

    upload_2020-9-30_22-7-18.png

    It is also taller than the stock shifter. The shorter throw comes from moving the pivot point up a little. The shifter adapter from Gennie Shifters is bolted on here.

    upload_2020-9-30_22-7-38.png

    I put some black silicone on the base before bolting the shifter on.



    upload_2020-9-30_22-8-0.png





    upload_2020-9-30_22-8-17.png





    upload_2020-9-30_22-8-31.png
    Just needs a new piece of carpet to finish it off.




    upload_2020-9-30_22-8-54.png

    This is an RPM chart I made using my rear end ratio, tire radius and gear ratios for my T5 transmission. It is actually quite accurate.
    Scan2020-06-21_165418.jpg

    I will clean this up tomorrow and post a chart for the 350 rear end option I am going to try soon.


    How’s it drive? :

    After driving for about 100 miles city and highway I would say it drives very well. I like the way it shifts. Considering the shifter is about 20 inches long one might expect the shift pattern to be kind of long between shifts but with CORE shifter it feels just right. When in first gear the shift knob is pretty close to the steering wheel but so far has caused no problems. You have to be almost totally stopped to get the transmission to shift into first gear. First gear is needed to get the car moving without slipping the clutch unless you are on a slight down grade.

    You can shift it into 4th gear around 35 miles an hour and it will drive well in fourth gear up to 50 something. Fifth gear is a nice cruising gear. It is actually running a little over 2000 RPM at 60. So yes I like it better than the old three speed overdrive that the car had in it before.

    Speedometer:

    At the beginning of test , the Stewart Warner Wings speedometer acted up. It would go to 160 miles per hour at any speed. The odometer was cycling so fast (noisily) that we thought something was broken in the transmission. We tried calibrating it several times but the best we could do was 78 miles an hour for an actual speed of 60 MPH.

    A call to the SW help line sent me to an engineer for the company named Chris at 717-598 2863. Chris gave me one trick to try, was unsuccessful (same results as before).A second call to Chris was made. Chris asked if I was willing to try a GPS unit. I explained that I had just removed one during the install of the transmission figuring that the stock T5 sender in the transmission would work with my SW gauge.

    I also mentioned that my previous GPS sender had been located on the back bumper and I no longer wanted to have it mounted there. Chris offered to send a GPS unit that will work under the dash at no cost to me. So when that gets here I will give it a try. The old Speedway brand GPS sender I had been using worked well by the way. It did seem to be sensitive to start up sequence. At times it would just not come on unless you stopped the car and restarted it. To be continued.



    The GPS sender arrived about three weeks after Chris said he would send it. This was occurring during the beginning of the COVID thing so who knows if that slowed it down. The unit mounted nicely on the fuse panel where the relays had been installed for the old OD trans. Testing proved it works well. It is slow to pick up satellites when I first start the car. Sometimes I can be a mile or two from home before it starts showing my MPH.

    upload_2020-9-30_22-11-38.png

    GPS sender in lower right corner of the panel

    upload_2020-9-30_22-11-52.png





    upload_2020-9-30_22-12-12.png

    I took the car back to Cascade auto Restoration to get the new transmission hump carpeted.

    He had to order in some more of the square weave carpet to do the job.

    upload_2020-9-30_22-12-34.png

    It only took him a couple of hours to cut a small piece for cover and bind the edges.

    So that was the end of the maintenance log. Just yesterday I finally heard back from an old club member that I had asked if he still had a ford 9 inch with 3.50 ratio last spring. He says he has one if I still want it. so tomorrow I will pick that up and will install it in the coupe soon to see if I like it better with that ratio .
     

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  27. 34 5W Paul
    Joined: Mar 27, 2020
    Posts: 308

    34 5W Paul
    Member
    from Fresno CA

    I kind of hope this thread just goes on and on. Saw something recently that made think of your post on the intake

    I could be wrong but I think your buddies at Speedway have answered your breather concern...
    • Includes breathers for front and rear with a PCV connection on the rear breather for modern era ventilation

    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1932-1953-Flathead-Intake-Manifold-Single-Plane,6754.html
     
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  28. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks 34 5W Paul! I do have some more stuff to post and will try to do it soon. As to the Speedway manifold, I went to the web site and checked it out ( I read all of the reviews also). When they talk about hardware to install the manifold it is some beautiful stainless bolts and the breathers. If you look at the picture closely you can see that the breathers are sitting on top of the machined surfaces of the manifold, not on a flange that you could actually insert the breathers into. I noticed that the manifold is meant to work around 2500 RPM. I would consider that high RPM for my engine. I try to run it through the gears at less than 2800 and try to keep the cruise RPM closer to 1800 to 2200.
    After about 5000 miles I am still not certain this is the best 4 barrel manifold for this engine. I wish someone would actually do a comparison test between the Edelbrock, Offenhauser and Speedway 4 barrel manifolds. It looks like Hot Rod Magazine would be the only hope of getting that done these days.
     
    34 5W Paul, loudbang and Kroombit like this.
  29. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Date: 10/20/20

    Mileage: 5484

    Project: Change Rear End Gear from 3.89 to 3.50

    As mentioned in the previous maintenance report I have wanted to try a different rear end ratio in the coupe to see if it would help with drivability. I delayed the project due to the cost of replacing the ring and pinion. Fortunately an old friend of mine recently decided to part with a 9” 3.50 pumpkin for what I thought was a reasonable price of $150.00. It was in good shape and just needed some cleanup and paint. I forgot to take a picture of the greasy mess but three or four hours of scrubbing resulted in a clean housing that was painted with brush on rustoleum semi gloss black. I did a pattern check on the ring and pinion and it looked good to me. All I know about it is that it came out of 68 Mustang that another friend was working on and was functioning well before removed for a ration change in that car. We eventually changed out this yoke for a shorter one we had to take off of the 3.89 gear that was in the coupe. No we did not redo the crush sleeve. We did measure the interface between the the pinion shaft and the yoke before the swap and used that measurement when tightening the pinion nut. I know it is not the proper way to do this but it is working okay.



    IMG_5114R.jpg [​IMG] IMG_5116R.jpg



    [​IMG] IMG_5118R.jpg
    IMG_5119R.jpg


    IMG_5120R.jpg


    We were able to use the lift for this project It worked great.

    We had to order the gaskets for this swap. You would think that 9 inch stuff would be readily available at O Rileys’s for such a popular rear end. We used a Fel Pro RDS 55074 gasket for 1957-87 Ford 9 inch and Fel Pro 10720 rear axle flange gasket for Ford products 6, v8, 1948-68. Permatex Optimum Black High flex gasket sealant was used on all 3 gaskets, So far no leaks. Two quarts of NAPA 80-90 weight gear oil was enough to fill up the housing to the side plug which was sealed with Rector #5.

    [​IMG] IMG_5160R.jpg

    I made an aluminum tag that say’s 9 “ 3.50 Ford and attached it to a stud on the left side of the gear.



    Results:

    The 3.50 gear works great! The car leaves the line well and has longer legs in each gear as anticipated by studying the chart that I made using the crawlpedia Com. gear calculator. The shifting seems much more natural. I can make it across an intersection before shifting out of 1st gear and I don’t have to slip the clutch to get started. City driving is great I don’t have to shift into 4th before 50 mph.

    I re calibrated the speedometer and it is still off a little somewhere between 2 and 4 mph. This chart is right on for the RPM at any given speed.
    upload_2020-10-24_20-47-53.png

    Project #2 Fix the rear end lowering blocks.

    When we were down there changing out the rear end we discovered that one of the angled spacer blocks we had installed to get the proper pinion angle on the rear end had broken and one half of the angled block on the driver’s side was missing.

    So it looked like a good time to fix this problem. We jacked the car up and put some 4x4’s across the ramps to support the back of the car. This allowed us some flexibility in raising and lowering the rear end off and on the spring and spacers. I didn’t get a picture of this but they were placed just forward of the spring shackle mounts.


    IMG_5164R.jpg

    These spacers appear to be made of pot metal.

    [​IMG] IMG_5150R.jpg

    So to fix this problem I decided to modify the 2 inch offset spacers I originally built for the car. They have offset locator pins in them to compensate for the difference between the spring and rear end spring perches. I cut the top loose and wedge it up until I had ½ inch more space at the front end of the spacer to match the angle of the spacers we were taking off the car.




    IMG_5151R.jpg


    I then cut some flat stock and filled in the gap making sure the top of the spacer stayed flat.

    IMG_5153R.jpg

    Ground it all down with a flap wheel

    IMG_5158R.jpg

    Painted them with some Rustoleum semi-gloss black and installed them.

    Results:They fit great and work well with no worries about the pot metal spaced coming loose or breaking off.

    This should be the last report for a while I do still have a problem with my fancy Vintage Air electronic Heater valve. Darn thing won't stop any water flow. I will report on that when I find a solution. Might have to put a manual valve in the line....

    I drove the car last week on a 100 mile fall foliage run. It was beautiful day with a high temperature around 50 degrees. The 40 worked beautifully. Climbed the hills well and was always wanting to sneak past the speed limit. I had to use the heater some but since there is no flow control on the hot water water I had to shut it down occasionally to so it didn't cook me. Beats shivering though.
    20201022_212721.jpg
    That's it for now.
     

    Attached Files:

  30. Glad you posted the cast 'metal' wedges. I've been looking at some lately, those and machined steel ones. Looks like steel for me if I need them. Thanks.
     
    The 39 guy likes this.

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