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Technical Anyone have experience with Bill Hirsch nitro lacquer paint?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bowties&Birds, Aug 23, 2020.

  1. So I finally got everything prepped and reshot the 55 firewall today. Came out much better this time! A little dry still in the center section but I think that is because the concave curves are messing with how the paint lays down. The rest came out pretty nice and smooth.
    I used a lot more thinner this time. I ended up with about a 3 to 1 mix. I mixed until I could start to see the wood of the stir stick showing through the paint. That seemed about right.
    I put three coats on with about a half hour in between, just guessed on recoat time.
    Any recommendations on how to proceed from here? Call it good and put the new engine back in or should I try and polish it some?[​IMG]


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  2. With that much thinner you have almost no paint on there so I wouldn't polish it. At a 3:1 mix you have to realize that 3/4 of what you applied has now evaporated into the air.
     
  3. This paint is super thick when it comes out of the can. Like the consistency of molasses.
    2 to 1 still seemed kind of thick to me.


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    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  4. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    You'll NEVER polish that lumpy, bumpy surface without cutting through to primer in many places. Even by hand. And, as Ian said, your paint film is pretty thin to begin with.
     
    Texas57 likes this.
  5. Thanks guys, that’s pretty much what I figured. Just want to make sure I’m moving in the right direction.


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  6. HotrodHR
    Joined: Jul 12, 2010
    Posts: 211

    HotrodHR
    Member

    I get low buck paint jobs, but you're putting in a lot of effort to shoot lacquer on what looks to be a nice car in decent shape.

    Unless you're looking to replicate the look of factory orginal paint, there are other products out there you could use that don't cost too much. I've shot cheaper priced single stage and basecoat/clearcoat paint outdoors, in makeshift "paint booths" with a portable compressor, and Finishline gun with good results.

    I'd do the body work, shoot some primer and save my money for better paint. Just my two cents...

    BTW, a 1.7 tip is too large for super thinned paint... JMHO
     
  7. Cost is a factor but I choose lacquer because that is what was on the car and I like that look better than super shiny clear coats. Also ease of use in my less than great painting conditions.

    I’ve done a couple car projects in higher end ppg and DuPont enamel. But always seemed like the durability was questionable for the cost. The other option is single stage urethane, but I’ve never used it. Seems like possibly a good choice though.

    I do regret a little going with the nitro it seems acrylic lacquer would have been the better choice. It would of taken a lot of this guesswork out of the equation and probably all around better paint.


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