Sorry guys I’m new to this and building my first a. I recently found a 35 ford with wide 5 hydraulic brakes, and a top loader 3 speed, toque tube, and diff.. I did search as best I could but didn’t get the answers I’m looking for.. would this set up be fitted into my 30 a? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'll start it off I guess. It depends what you are trying to accomplish with your final look. Are you talking about swapping the complete front axle assembly with brakes and all or just the spindles, backing plates out to the wheels? (35 didn't have hydraulic brakes yet or wide 5 btw). If you're talking about using the whole axle and spring, it can be done but the spring mounts in front of the axle on a 35 to 48 ford car front setup, whereas the model a spring sits directly above. This will affect your wheelbase. Model a uses front to back drag link connected from steering box to axle whereas newer is a side to side drag link. The newer axle is also wider in track width, and the later spring is also wider than a model a spring which can make it difficult to fit into the model a crossmember. But if you are determined and have some skills, it can be used. I made a new crossmember and used that type of setup in mine and it works great.
Thanks, I believe this a a 35’ truck that’s came wide 5 with the brakes but I could be wrong... I guess my biggest concern is if I can put the spindles on the front, and if the drivetrain will line up with my chassis.. I know I’ll have to do some fab work to make the rear spring work, but I’m hopping the wheels sit centre in the back and the bell housing leaves enough room for a flattie. Total length I guess is my question. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
32-36 axles are the same width and perch spacing. A 35 axle can be used with a spring on top. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks, you mean a 35 rear axle can be used with the spring in top? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That’s front axles. There was a thread showing how a set of Model A rear spring perches were modified to place them over the rear axle on the later rear to use the A rear spring. Some ID items; 36-39 used had the wide 5 wheels with 39 being the only year with hydraulic brakes. For rear end, 35-36 rear end have the rear spring hangers as part of the rear wishbones. 37 and later they are cast as part of the rear end. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you have a 30 model A rolling chassis and a 35 truck rolling chassis you have all the parts you need to mix for a running early hot rod. Id use the 35 truck rear crossmember (maybe flattened) and use the 35 rear spring and wishbone setup as well. You can step and lengthen the rear of the A frame, get a little lower and keep the spring out of the trunk area
" building my first a" really doesn't help much for the questions you're asking. Are you building a AV8 ,using the stock 4 cylinder or a more modern ohv V8? The more information you give us, the better we can help you. You can take the 35 front axle and swap it for the Model A axle and this would give you about a 1" drop over the A axle. The 35 rear end could be used if you weld spring hangars on top of the rear end and convert to a Model A rear spring. The steering would have to be converted to cross steer to use the 39 ( I'm guessing ) spindles or aftermarket steering arms available at Speedway or a number of other places. https://garage.eastwood.com/eastwood-chatter/convert-banjo-rear-spring/ https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-Upper-Steering-Arm-Plain-7-3-4-Inch-Tapered,37804.html
Sorry, im planning on using a flathead 8 of some sort in the end. I’m just gathering parts at the moment. My biggest question is I have the trans, torque tube, and diff from a 35.. if I were to weld the hangers from the model a on the diff, would the tranny bell housing roughly line up? Or would I have to shorten the torque tube somehow? Thank you Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Once I have the two chassis side by each I might do that.. I have to decide which ones easier. Bringing the frame into the cab isn’t a huge deal to me.. thanks! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Go to Chapters, Indigo, or Amazon and order a copy of Mike Bishop's book "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod". It answers a lot of your questions and has pictures. Do you have a mentor like Dad or Grandad to guide you? You are dealing with parts that are over 70 years old and they are not as common as they were to us old geezers.
That’s books now on order! And just my dad and I, but we’re both brand new to this type of build.. we’ve done lots of 60/70s shit but this is a first to us. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I believe the wheelbase is longer on the '35 which means putting the '35 engine, trans, torque tube and rear axle into an A frame may not work without shortening the torque tube/driveshaft.
That's entirely a possibility. But I will say it rides fantastic with no bump steer and just as comfortable at 60 mph as it is at 100 plus. (More noisy and windy tho)
You can use most of the 35 parts but as has been mentioned the torque tube and drive shaft will need to be shortened. You can swap some stuff out of the front end like cut the spring hangers off and fit ''spring above axle'' perch bolts, make sure they are forged. You can get a new front spring made to to suit if an A item is wrong. It all sounds like good fun. JW
Here’s the only pictures I have of that supposed 35’ pick up.. you guys think it’s newer right? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
