Has anyone used this after market over the windshield header panel? I'm wondering how well it fits . Thanks, Bill
I didn't even know that existed but since the only curve on it is at the top and that could be easily fixed with a shrinker if it is off a bit, seems like a great fix for a missing panel. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes, it fits. Some numbnut is selling a "used" one on EBAY. He wants an arm and a leg for it and say's it's original.He claims all of his crap is original. He lies.
Snyder's Antique Auto's sell the nearest thing to T coupe hinges and that is the hinges for a Model A closed cab pickup. The hinges are near identical. I think the only variation is actual pin size which is neither here nor there really. I just looked at their web site and the sell a full set for both doors or individual hinges as required. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Products/model-a/door/door-hinges They appear to be pre-drilled on both faces which would be a big plus in my book made to suit this purpose. I think the Speedway items could be more universal and/or be more suited to an open car door.
While we're at it, I bought Flathead Dave's doors. These are pictures of the latch areas. The top pic is of the door I bought from Dave, the lower is of the door on my car. Do they use the same latch? Thanks, Bill
There is even a 3rd style latch impression. Different years, I'd have to check in my stash to refresh my memory. First thoughts are that they are both Model T. Dave's I'd say 100% T and yours I need to check. I'll be back...
My latches are like the lower picture. I show what I did with mine in my "getting the bugs out" thread. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This pair of latches fits your rusty door and can be found in Model A closed cab pickups and possibly some late 1927 T Coupes and Tudors. It is always nice to have a matching pair but once the trim is fitted who cares as long as they work OK. This latch type is readily available as a reproduction part.
Thanks Russ, I'm more concerned with function over symmetry at this point. I'll have to keep my eyes open for a passenger door latch. Bill
I've been working on this coupe a couple of weeks. Trying to remove 93 year old screws has been a major challenge. As with anything new there is a learning curve and I'm just at the beginning I've studied the hinge pics that Russ posted and my top hinge isn't represented . https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/26-27-model-t-coupe.1207820/#post-13771966 My top hinge has a 90 degree angle . This is a pic of the driver side hinge . The two screws in the jamb I have removed. You can see the 90 and two screws that were behind the windshield garnish molding. The drivers door was removed by flame cutting the hinge in case you're wondering . Any thoughts ?
Just went to the garage to look at mine. They are the same. What was the question? If the screws are hard to move, heat them up with a torch.
Yes , I've been using heat. I guess my question is about finding a replacement hinge. Would a hinge without the 90 similar to this work ? Bill
You could modify that to work or just eliminate the top hinge when you chop the top like most guys do. I kept mine, though.
Sorry, a bit late to the party. There were several versions of T and similar A top hinge attachment designs. I have these pic's which may give you a little more insight. I recall being confronted with your exact same issue of the 90 degree style. It seems that style goes with the finger style hinge. From memory, I believe I cut off and kept the 90 part and welded it to another broken later model pin end to give me what I wanted.
On a further note, keeping the top hinge was a bit of a problem with my chop because it occupies the same space as the windshield pivot clamp. Made it work however. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The driver side door uses a different latch than the passaenger side door on these doors. The latches you are showing will work on the passenger door that fits on top of the door. The driver side latch is a curved and square latch the fits inside of the door. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This is what will fit the driver side door that Bill now has. $249 for a pair from Vintique. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I sold my T hinges a few months back but there is a top hinge on ebay for $89. It depends on what it's worth for you to have it. Way over priced if you ask me. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not 100% sure but I am thinking there is only one style of T repro latch available and that is the one with the curved lower edge. This could quite easily be modified to replace the other style. I did some very early Threads of hinges and latches many years back on here but not sure if they can still be found. If buying a new repro latch, there was a problem with the locking mechanism which I raised with one of the main Sellers who was going to report it back to the Maker. Not sure if that ever happened, but again a simple fix, but should be right at the time of purchase. With hinges it is tricky but they can be found but are likely to cost good money. Hell if that is going to save you lots of time/work that can be focused on other parts of your build so be it...
Thanks for chiming guys, I just need you T guys to keep stuffing me with information It's hard for me to formulate a plan because my brain doesn't have enough information to visualize a three dimensional picture. But that will come. The guy I bought the body from has more T stash in the yard he has in S Dak . He is going to see if he can locate a latch for me. As a last resort I can operate on that door and use the latch and the latch mounting plate from the door that's on the car. As far as hinges go, I may take a run up to Snyders and talk with them. They're only about 40 miles from me. BTW here is a pic of my body , Bill
If your body does not have rust out any where in the belt line especially in the curved rear corners you are laughing. Wish I lived that close to a company like Snyders.
Hi Russ, I do have rust on the pass belt line . Most of the rust out is on the upper passenger side. I'm thinking the car laid on the passengers side at some point in it's life. I'll probably just make a new corner panel once I've figured things out. I had planned to channel it but the sub rails , cross sills ,floors and the bottom of the cowl are so nice that I'm having second thoughts. The coolest thing about the car so far is while I was cleaning out pine cones , acorns and pine needles, I found a 1897 Indian head penny in the pocket at the rear of the trunk. How that didn't fall out during the trip from S. Dakota to Deerfield , Ohio and then from Deerfield to my place (57 mi ) is beyond me. I think it's an omen and that car and I were meant to be. Bill
Here is a link to the thread that fiftyV8 did on hinges. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/official-model-a-t-hinge-info-thread.605123/ My doorknob i will use as a shifterknob.
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