I know I must be loosing it. Just got one of these from rock auto . STD VRC604 instrument cluster voltage regulator from 12 to 6v . Can these run just one gauge or can they run more? Would you believe it I can’t pull the part number or image up on rock auto now , duuuh, it’s similar to this item .
Those are called Constant Voltage Redgulators. Or CVRs. Up until '80, Ford still used 6V gauge units, so they needed the kick down to make them work. A single CVR would kick down the voltage for the whole gauge cluster. Your gonna have to daisy chain the power off that to each gauge on the cluster. But is should work. Verify it before you hook your gauges up. I can't think of a reasaon, at the moment, why not to use one. I wouldn't think the older gauges used much difference in ampactiy.
@Kiwi 4d pop into Jaycar at Palmerston North and buy one + of these https://www.jaycar.co.nz/7806-6v-1a-voltage-regulator/p/ZV1506 $2-30 each They have a fixed output of 6v and 1a [regardless of the input] They are simple to wire up 12v Input Common Ground 6v Output
the regulator you have in your picture is designed for a specific type of gauge (thermal), and won't work on other types (magnetic). Whether or not it will work with your gauges, we can only guess, because we don't know what kind of gauges they are. For example...you'll find thermal gauges in some Hudsons, many Mopars, and Fords. But GMs used magnetic gauges.
If it's a Stewart-Warner gauge, here is a list (from my 1957 catalog) of which ones are thermo or magnetic.
This probably doesn't apply here but early MOPAR 12 volt cars had that voltage regulator built into the gas gauge. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ford, Chrysler products, AMC, and a lot of others used 6 volt gauges well into, and beyond the seventies. Some had the CVR built into one of the gauges in the cluster and others had a CVR (as pictured) mounted on the back of the instrument cluster. They will power multiple gauges without issue. I just mounted one of those to the back of the instrument cluster to operate the fuel gauge in my '50 Ford. It works well.
keep in mind that these thermal regulators operate intermitently---they provide an average of 6v, but they actually provide 0 V and 12 V, alternating on and off.
Go on Ebay and you can get 5 or 10 of them for $2-4 total, shipped to you. They are all made in China. Work fine on my 37 Chevy fuel level gauge. 1 amp capacity, so use 1 per gauge. Just search for 7806 voltage reducer. Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
The $NZD is only 60c USD right now ..............so NZD $2-30 is USD $1-38 each Palmerston North is only 28 miles from Levin where the OP is based. We should we all support local suppliers [too many are struggling]
As per usual wise old owl er @squirrel is correct. I was futzing checking the regulator with a multi meter and it read 12V on both poles?? Ok thinking about what squirrel said in that they alternate off and on , sure enough using a test bulb it was flashing like a turn signal. The 36 ford fuel gauge does read correctly when hooked up to regulator.
$2-4 TOTAL cost for 5-10 quantity. As in around $.25-40 each Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
Interesting to know that there are different types of voltage step downs... If the one pictured for a mid 60s Ford is for the Thermo type gauge, which one would be best for the magnetic type gauges?
Those volt regulators have contact points in them, like a voltage regulator in the charge system. Also, they have a tiny weeny adjuster screw for output. And no, when checked they are not necessarily accurate out of the box so you should check it.
Ford used King Seeley gauges from Model A until 1985. Except for 1956, they are all 6 volt thermal gauges. For 12 volt use, an instrument voltage regulator or al so referred to as a CLUSTER voltage regulator. It supplies a pulsed 6 volt signal to the gauges, thus preventing gauge over voltage and burn out. Because they are thermal, they are very stable, especially the fuel gauge because it can't cool down of heat up fast enough and show fuel sloshing as the car go us down the road. The gauges also are designed to have the least current running through them in their normal position, ie full current on fuel and water temp gauges because that is where the gauge goes to the least. You can replace original 6 volt gauges with later gauges by merely swapping the needle and gauge face, making sure the needles sweep the same way since they are constructed exactly the same. I have installed later gauges quite often in old clusters without any problem. When upgrading say a 46 Ford to 12 volts, installing an IVR from a later car will allow the gauges to function normally using the original type senders. I like to use a B9A ( 1959 Ford) IVR because it uses spade connectors and later ones had snaps on them to attach to printed circuit dashes. NAPA carries the B9A unit. I worked for Ford from the seventies through the nineties and can tell you that the King Seeley gauges were very accurate and dependable. We went nuts with gauge problems when Ford went to GM style magnetic gauges in 1986. Incidently, as I heard the story, when Henry went looking for a gauge supplier, he went to D'Arsenval in France. They were one of the finest instrument makers in the world at that time. Henry stipulated that the gauges must cost less then 20 cents to build. D'Arsenval worked forever but couldn't get under 25 cents because of all the highest quality materials they used. Since Henry commissioned them and paid the bills, he had the rights to everything and brought them home and sent everything to King Seeley to see if they could make them cheaper. They did, and got the cost down to between 9 and 10 cents! Henry bought them ! I know that Studebaker and possibly Chrysler used King Seeley also. I know it's wordy, but hope this clears up any questions on thermal type gauges.
Thank you for posting, great info! I am curious when using an early gauge like Stewart Warner 6v, the NAPA B9A may not be the correct choice, since the SW unit I have is a magnetic gauge,not thermal. What would be the next choice to step 12v down to 6v for SW gas gauge, the runtz?
I used a 4 wire 12-6 from amazon put it between the power wire that feeds all the gauges on my 40 tudor
since the NAPA unit it pulsed 6 volts, it won't work with a magnetic type gauge. You Wil have to use a dropping resis terrible to maintain a constant 6 volt source for your gauge.
If anyone decides whether or not to use a 7806 voltage regulator, precautions should be taken: 1) The tab should be attached to a good (negatively) grounded metal area, such as metal dashboard. This will provide a heat sink for the voltage regulator. 2) Depending where the voltage regulator is mounted is also important. If mounted more than 12 inches away from the 12 volt input source (Ignition terminal, etc.) and also mounted 12 inches from the gauge, suppression capacitors should be used. They would be 1-22uf in value, 16vdc (or higher) for voltage rating, and low ESR. Connect the + of one of the caps to the input terminal (Pin 1) of the regulator and the - to a good ground (pin 2 of voltage regulator). Connect the + lead of the other capacitor to pin 3 (output of voltage regulator) and the - to a good ground (pin 2 of voltage regulator). If these capacitors are not used, there is a good chance that the voltage regulator will oscillate at the 6 volt output, causing the gauges to have jitter. 3) If changing from a 6 volt positive ground vehicle to 12 volt negative ground vehicle remember that some of the gauges will be polarity sensitive, similar to radios. Using the 7806 voltage regulator will not properly configure to the polarity difference. 4) As someone has already pointed out, use one of the 7806s per gauge to avoid overloading the device.
I have a 50 Ford cluster in my Model A. I had a local gauge guy refurbish it. He used a chip to replace the thermal voltage regulator. You can check an electronics catalog and find one that puts out 6 volts. A number of years ago I built a little 5 volt power supply for checking sensors on electronic engines and use in electrical engine classes. It uses a chip from Radio Shack and an 8 volt battery. It stays at 4.9 - 5.0 volts. There has to be a chip that regulates to 6 volts. You don't need many Watts for thermal gauges.
This is what I've had for 2 years now and works fine Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app