I have a 29 coupe as well. The repo latch did not fit at all. After many hours of trying to make it fit, I rebuilt the original. I welded up the worn spots. Works good now.
You can get replacement springs for the latch, disassemble, replace the springs, build up any worn out areas with welder and it’ll be good. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wish I would have saw this sooner. Had a similar idea that now seems to be more work, but same concept.
The other problem we are working on is that the battery drains down all the time and it is often hard to start. It could be several things but we suspect the points. It has a Delco dual point number 1110891. I would like to know what this came off of. My son has ordered two different Petronix units that do not fit. Can anybody help me?? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Also, this distributor does not have vacuum advance. I had thought it must have been an old Corvette unit, but I doubt that now.
Turns out the correct Petronix part number for this old dual-point is 1183. My son just completed the conversion and reported the engine now sounds crisp and snappy. Can’t wait for the test drive.
My son reports the test drive was the tits. Running better now than ever. Starts right up, and you can hear the cam loping with a crisp idle. Great throttle response. He is working on the door latch springs kit we got from Snyder’s.
I have somehow missed all this progress... So rad to see you guys keeping this thing going. I love that car.
hook a test light BETWEEN one of the battery cables and the battery post. you will have to take the cable off the post. if the light is lit there is a drain, pull fuses or start disconnecting things till the light goes out. the problem will be on that circuit. reconnect it and disconnect further down the circuit till you get to the problem. does it have a vintage looking modern radio?
Yeah, that’s a good plan. I haven’t found the fuse panel yet. I bet he hid it in a kick panel. No radio.
I got to drive my coupe this evening. Big thanks to my son for fixing the clutch, installing electronic ignition and bigger battery. Starts and runs better than ever! I believe that battery has been a problem all along. I’ve only put 3000 miles on the thing because it wouldn’t start most every time I wanted to drive it. It finally fizzled-out. It cranks like crazy now. After a two hour drive, it started right up. Alternator is fine. A small deep-cycle Red-top Optima didn’t work for me. Your results may vary.
Just a regular battery from Autozone. I’m not sure of the numbers. I’ll check tomorrow. It went from 475 cranking amps to more like 675. Had to build a new bigger battery box. Not a big deal. Fits fine Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I have searched through this thread two or three times ( not a chore I must say) can someone tell me what master cylinder that is? A search through google left me dizzy .
https://www.google.com/search?q=196...d-att-us-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 It's a 60-62 Chevy truck master. You'll need to run hanging pedals with them. I think they're a great solution.
Yep, that master was installed back in the 60’s. It uses a hydraulic throw out bearing as the slave. A more elegant solution than the Chevy slave cylinder. That bearing was recently replaced when we went to a new SFI shatter-proof bell housing. I recommend following the installation instructions and get it adjusted right, so those things don’t get ruined.