Hot Rods Early Corvette drag racing Tips and tricks

Fair enough Jim, I will forget the j-bolts. Another question then regarding stiffness of the leaf springs. I recently had some springs re-arched and they went a bit crazy and the car sits too high. I have another set of springs with 6 or 7 leafs. I have seen 5 leaf springs for C1s but never more than 5 leafs. What do you think of going more than 5 leafs?

I have had Eaton re-arch springs 3 times and they came out differently each time. Any hints to giving them guidance. Eaton are the best in this neck of the woods so can't go to Plan B easily (unless you know otherwise).

 

I agree that Traction masters have their place in history and help prevent spring wind up . I have personally never tried them but can see the progression of traction devices over the years . I could put Cal Tracs on the Vette but thats not really the look I'm after. I have had several sets of Lakewood bars and also never used the J bolts. Only 1/2" u bolts to mount em.

 

Let me just say this, I have seen a lot of cars stretch 7/16" u-bolts and bend housing saddles. None of mine, because I check U-bolts often. With the amount of slack in those cars, I can see the whole rear axle rotating with J-bolts. Not a good thing. If you want to use the J-bolts, go for it , I see no advantage.

I ran 7 leafs back than, I have run 6 leafs since 2013, make sure the extra leafs are at the top.

In the old days (60s) we used to go to a local shop and get our spring re-done, No problems, when I built the black car in 2013, all those shops were closed. I had to then go into the inner city and go to truck spring shops. They did what I asked , when I installed the springs the car sat crooked. I had to remove both springs and have them match the correct one. Who needs this crap. No quality or workmanship any more.

Maybe Eaton is not the best, I would look for a small shop where the owner is at least 65-70+ years old. who would you trust to do work for you? A 20 year old or a 70 year old on these old cars . Jim

 

Good man Colin, I think the theory as to why at the track I did not have spring wind up was because I launched out of the hole at 5000 and just smoothly spun the tires. I think the spring wind up is from tires lightly spinning and getting partial grabs.

 

I re arched my own springs on my press. Maybe that is not the right way to do it but it seemed to work and the car is level with the height I was trying to get. First I took the center bolt out and separated the springs. turned each spring leaf upside down matching the pairs. It was easy to see which one needed more arch. I marked the springs so I could be uniform in how I put it in the press then would bend and check, bend and check... until each pair matched.

 

Larry I love it, innovate and do it yourself. Probably the right way to it in the old ways. When I took my springs back to have it done right, it took them less than 10 minutes to fix them.

 

This Is what the HAMB is for. Do it yourself, do it right.

 

You are so correct, colin. I will help in any way. Jim

 

Hi Colin, What do you want to know? In my car they are the stock springs. It has 4" H beams to level out the rear height. I do not put much thought toward it because the front wheels spend so little time on the ground. LOL
Jim

 

This is a copy of "The List" of things to do from Jim (Vetrod62)
Drive Train PG1

-A

- Clutch - must be strong. A new Hays #30-012 was too weak.

- Now Using a Ram #414 11” Borg & Beck

- A #980 Disc (900/300 Facing)



-B

- Scatter Shield – Dial in

- Some new ones do not have the clutch bracket in the proper place. Lakewood #15000LKW does.


-C

- Get Wide Ratio Trans 2.88, 2.64, or 2.54 first. (the lower the better)


-D

- Lower trans as far as possible at “X” frame. (frame may need to be notched at “X” frame to clear reverse rod)


-E

- Add extra leaf springs, Re arch if necessary. (I have 6)


-F

- Add Snubber Bar… 67 Camaro

- Cut bars to length, re drill hole for snubber. Double nut and lock tite.

- Cut off “J” brackets – Change to Lakewood bars. No “J” bolt

- Get new “1/2” U Bolts

- Weld in “High Grade” 1/2 “ Bolt for shocks

- Upon launch, the rear end will lift the whole car 3-4”. Make sure the shocks will extend far enough


-G

- Driveshaft

 

-H PG2

- Eliminate clutch bushings to solid rod ends


-I

- Build a bullet proof rear axle. Order good axles with 3” ½” studs in a 4¾ bolt pattern

- A spool will be necessary for slicks and if the tires hit hard

- Weld Spring Saddle’s after rear end is in car and proper angle is set


Front End

-A

- 4” Blocks (I Beam) add an extra shim to both sides or raise to your desired height. The reason for raising is for rear tire clearance

- Modify radiator support bracket if lifted

- Extend sway bar links or remove bar



-B

- Disc front brakes

- Install line lock


-C

- Modify OE front engine mount to be a motor plate


Misc



- Tach

- MSD

- Electric Fuel Pump, Filter, Shut off valve and proper sized fuel lines

- Battery to trunk.

- If battery is located to the trunck, you will need a steel box with vent or approved plastic box

- shut off “ON / Off” switch at the back of the car

- Roll bar and dated belts if you go faster than 11.50 or 130mph

 

-Cooling System PG3



-A

- You need a great radiator. I would get a 1960 top tank radiator from DeWitts

- Full Shroud

- Seal gaps around core

- 7 Blade fan #3947772 (302 Camaro)

(find on ebay. Make sure it is not bent)

- Fan Clutch – Hayden #2747

- Disconnect heater core or put in a shut off valve with by pass to avoid blowing core


Exhaust – Headers



-A

- Dump Tubes?

- Weld in bung for O2 Sensor- make sure there is at least 6” straight clearance for LM-1 reader

- Make exhaust so that pipes can be dropped

 

Thanks Jim and Larry A great list to work from!

 

Jim and Jim, . Thank you for all the details! This was a lot of help! The wisdom and experience is definitely invaluable! Thanks again.

Scott


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

So a little update on my 59 . Today I picked up a batch of parts off Craigslist That came off a 62 Vette project. Including all the clutch linkage with the frame mounted pivot that was hacked off my car. Also both engine mount stands and the saddle. A complete steering box and assorted steering linkage. All for $150

 

Nice Score Colin. It sounds like you are making great progress on your car. That is awesome! This thread has lit the fire under me to get going on my 56. When it was last raced (1980's) and went off the track, it hit something and busted up the right front fender area. I also think it tweaked the front frame rail some. I talked to a body shop just up the street from my shop a couple of days ago to see if they could / would un tweak it for me. Once that is done, I can piece the fender stuff back together and get the car up and running again. They said they are at least a month out however

 

Here's Dominique.....a '56. In the late 70's someone decided it was time to do some track time. It will all get undone to go back to full custom, but it was done with a '70's 350 block with angle plug heads, a 3-71 blower, '66 turbo 400 trans, front frame spacers and an Olds/Pont. rear with summers brothers axles. I have the engine sold. Eventually the trans and rear will be available.

 

Wow great thread, I hope to one day modify this ‘60 for respectable 1/8 mile passes at the local track. Should be mostly work on the rear end and suspension. Engine is aluminum head solid lifter 383, w/ autogear M22 and runs very hard

 

Very nice ! I remember watching your avatar at Barona. Barona is where I will be testing my Vette when running.

 

I look forward to seeing your Vette out there. My main focus is on the Chevelle in my avatar and I have been chipping away at getting it faster for a while now. Always a delicate balance between budget, wanting to go fast and also not wanting to break my main driver

 

I’ll trade you the 60 style air cleaner for your 57 pair

 

Hren your 60 looks great. Always good to hear others want to run these cars.

 

Ok I have a couple more questions. When using the Vette front saddle mount am I limited to using the header style alternator bracket? and have you guys had any trouble tossing belts at RPM? Also Flywheel weight. I have a 30 lbs wheel but am thinking of using a 24 lbs wheel. Am I asking for bog off the line with the lighter wheel or will the extra cubes carry it in a light car?

 

I agree! That is a neat car! Have you had a chance to get any 1/4 or 1/8 mile times yet the way it is?

 

Collin, That is a great question. I'm not positive of the answer but this may help....
On my 66, I have a bracket that bolts to the front of the head. The bracket is OE for a 1980.

On my wife's 60 with the saddle, it looks like that 80 bracket might fit. I didn't try it. Instead. I made a header type bracket

 

Yep I love those brackets that bolt on the front of the head, sadly doesn't clear the saddle. the ones I commonly use are 67-72 chevy truck and 70s to 80s Vettes.

 

I have never tossed a belt ever. Tossing belts is because the pulleys are out of alignment. period. Those after market alt. brackets are crap. Your best bet is to make your own to bolt to the front header bolts. Have the header bolt clearance as little as possible. All pulleys should align with a straight edge to each other pulley in both directions. Always worked for me , even on engines that went to 11,000 rpms .

Flywheel weight ? I thought you had said you expected 475 to 525 hp, At that level you will need a 16 LB Ram alum. with a steel, insert flywheel . The clutch PP needed with it will add more weight. The slipper ones previously discussed with the correct mounting bolts. Jim

 

The Corvette is a convertible I think you will find the rules are tougher.

 

Makes sense Jim. The extra weight of the clutch makes up for the light flywheel

 

BTW Jim spent the afternoon after work aligning the crank and water pump pulley's. I am not a fan of the spacer behind the dampener so I bought a .200 lower pulley spacer and machined a .030 shim to go behind the water pump pulley.