Technical I have A LONG RUN from RADIATOR to ENGINE. OPTIONS???

That stuff is only rated for a max of 150 degrees F

 

Copper tubing with sweated fittings and PVC pipe belong in houses not in cars you are going to drive.

I'd think exhaust pipe that was either painted after it was bent to shape or aluminized pipe would be the most practical and safest to use. With good antifreeze in them they should last far longer than you will want to use them.

I've got to agree with the comment of "don't overthink it" No need to go off the wall when there is a simple and workable solution.

 

Old HAMB metallurgist here. Very simplified answer, there is no corrosion reaction since the two metals are not coupled together. I assume, and you will need to have, some flexible rubber hose at the connection points. The rubber provides the electrical isolation. Think of plumbing dieletric connectors that are used to link copper pipe to iron pipe. Same issue as what you have, the dielectric coupling has an insulating piece to prevent the direct electrical connection between the pieces. Corrosion is an electrical process where it is called the oxidation reaction: the metal (solid, neutral charge) becomes a metal positive ion and gives up an electron (negative charge). That electron can't do anything serious without being coupled to the other metal. Coolant is not a very good conductor, and the rubber hose is also poor conductor. So the net effect is you do not have anything to worry about.

 

Here's an interesting article I found: http://sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/testing_for_electrolysis.htm

 

I also found this: https://www.flex-a-lite.com/pdf_instructions/32060 99766.pdf

 

Almost 20 years ago I plumbed my front-engine roadster back to the rear water tank with industrial rubber hose (maybe 1-1/2"). I understand that it was for boats (mentioned here previously). Got it at an Industrial Supply house. Never had a problem, never even looked like a problem.

 

Last time I bought a long piece of radiator hose I remember it as having been rather expensive. At any rate I picked up some aluminum tubing today and will see if my bead roller will fit. If not I'll try using a thick washer for the male die.

 

Well, it took 5 gallons of anti-freeze coolant and that didn't include the heater core and hoses. Ought to help cooling.

 

Not to derail this thread but just wanted to throw out a caution...

Please, don’t anyone add an oil (or fuel) filter to their cooling system. Almost all oil filter media is cellulose based - even the high efficiency synthetic medias have a cellulose backer in most instances. Cellulose swells in water and will completely choke off your cooling system. I’ve seen situations where a cup of coffee accidentally spilled into a the hydraulic oil sump of filter test bench caused the hydraulic system pressure to rise so rapidly that the safety burst panels ruptured and the bench jumped a noticeable amount off the floor!

There are spin on style coolant filters in the heavy equipment industry that look like any other typical spin on filter but are intended for use in water/glycol coolant. Make sure you get one without the pelletized additive that some include. You won’t need the additive in an automotive application.

 

Why reinvent the wheel? Locate a radiator from a 1968 VW Beetle and you're good to go. No long hoses and you can eliminate the coolant pump too