Interesting to see your flathead heads have those two castings on the ends. Same as what i have and not often seen. The late Bruce Lancaster mentioned that they could be from a Bren Gun Carrier .
Not sure about the Bren Gun Carrier... The 8.8" Rear is all set up and sitting in the saddles (I will weld these in place when I set the pinion angle up with the new transmission). The axles were installed for the paint job and will come out again when I install the rear brake backing plates... Note: my preference to black I'm very happy with the width of the rear end - it should be easy to fit a nice set of wheels. Specs: distance across from the outside to outside (width) of the springs at the axle mounting points is 43". The brake backing plate flanges are about another 3" past the outside of the springs and the axle flange without the brake rotor is about another 3" from that. I will list more precise measurements as I put it together.
I am using a 1939 Ford Steering Box (the one that came with the truck) and installing a new worm and sector with new bearings. The original steering shaft had more twists and bends than I cared to have so I contacted a local Old Ford restorer who sold me one out of a 1936 (it was NOS). The worm was wrong but it had the same shaft as mine, so I simply popped of the old Worm and tapped my new one on in its place... more lies... it wouldn't budge so I broke down and took it to a machine shop. They managed to do the swap but... apparently it was a "beeatch"! All back together now - just needs paint.
The car is at the point where I can put the "roller" wheels on and then "test" install the drive train. I will need to clearance the trans support plate to fit the T5 which is in a suspended state of "rebuild" - when I was going through it, I found that the 1-2 Slider and the 2nd Gear needed replacing (apparently quite common on these boxes) - parts should be here in the next few days.
Looking good, looks like red oxide primer on the body. i scored a five gallon pail of it in the 70s and have used most of it over the years on many cars.
I discovered that I was missing the Bellhousing Dowel Pins so I couldn't center the transmission input shaft. I ordered a few from C&G (yah, they're special) and in the meantime I finished up a few small jobs on the block (chasing all the threads, etc.). The oil pump pickup was hitting the bottom of the pan so I cut out a little over half an inch and welded it back together - fits nicely now...
The pan I am using appeared to have had the baffle removed (not sure why, but strangely I have a second pan, identical, and it had the baffle removed as well???). In any case, I don't like the idea of engine oil rushing up to the "nose" of the engine every time I hit the brakes, so I fabbed up a replacement baffle out of some sheet metal and welded it in... I also made a timing marker at the same time... Now I have everything painted and test fitted so I can go ahead and assemble the drive train once the transmission is indexed
That lack of a baffle taught my dad about "little ears". We were traveling in his '40 Tudor to visit a nice Christian aunt in Montana. A cow stepped onto the road, dad hit the brakes and the oil pressure dropped to zero. When we arrived, aunty asked my 3 year old sister and I what we had seen on our trip. The recitation ended with "and one God-Damn cow"
This is Canada and on Monday, it was snowing where I live, but today it was almost 70F, go figger... but the reprieve from winter gave me a chance to push forward with my project. I finished assembling the Engine and DriveTrain... It is supposed to stay warm for the next few days so my goal is to finish a little bit of brake plumbing and hopefully I can drop it in... Just got to flip it over first... hmmm
For the trial fit, I had to mark on the crossmember where it needed to b trimmed for the T5, which is quite a different shape than the original - this is something I knew I had to do, so when the transmission was out I had made a cardboard template showing where to cut. There was really only one other issue... the Fenton Headers interfered with the steering box (which is stock). It was clear that it needed "adjusting", so I pulled the engine back out and moved the steering box mounting plate about 1/2" in on the frame. there is plenty of clearance now and the second time, the engine slid into place nicely. I Next I will set the pinion angle on the rear end.
Any chance of cookin' the grease in the steering box without a heat shield? I'm curious 'cause my headers & steering box will be about the same and maybe I need to install "an ounce of prevention"...
Advice....don't weld up your 8.8 yet, bolt it all together tight, leave it till the weight is on the chassis, the body together, mostly where you want it to be, then set your pinion angle, on the floor and tack the mounts then. It's the way I've done it, every car I've built, (many), it'll be right then.
Can you post a photo of what you have to trim for the T5? I didn't trim anything on mine. Just cut rivets and removed the stock center section. I replaced it with a CE center section but you could make your own if you wanted. Whatever you do make sure that the drive shaft angle can be aligned properly to the rear end.
Hi Mike, I'm not using grease in my steering box, but I was thinking about it. I was not sure if the grease would make it to the bushings at the bottom of the sector shaft. That is the only place on my box for a leak as I sealed up the bottom bearing with a plate (replaced the light / horn switch assembly). These originally used a heavy oil so I am counting on the "new" seal at the bottom of the sector shaft to prevent leaks along with using the heaviest oil I could find which is Lucas Engine Oil Supplement - really thick. Since I put it in there have been no leaks and the box turns nicely. George
Hi Trolls, I hear where you are coming from, I had a friend who put a small block in an S-10 and on it's first trip (over a few miles), we dropped the drive shaft (front joint went). Luckily it didn't go up through the floor or dive into the road (even worse). I need to order the drive shaft and I want to weld up the rear saddles sooner rather than later, what would you think about putting about 500lbs. on the rear of the frame rather than putting the body on? Thanks for your advice, George
Hi Bill, Hope you and your family are well. I took some pics from the bottom, I can take some more the next time the engine is out... Note that this is a T5 from a Mustang that has been mated to an S-10 tail housing. George
Bill, BTW, note that I am using an Energy Suspension 3.1158G transmission mount which is shorter than the stock S-10 / GM transmission mount. Cheers, George
You don't need to set the pinion angle to measure the driveshaft, set your pinion angle where you think it should be and tighten the u bolts enough to hold it all together. Measure center of bearing cup to bearing cup on each end after pulling the yoke out 1" to 1 1/2 inches depending on your preference, and order the shaft. Put the car together, as much weight as it will be done, or as close as you can get to done, set the car on the floor, set your pinion angle, tack it, remove the rear end and weld it up. Install it and the world will be right.
Maybe I should explain why I do setups in this way, if you set pinion angle before the weight is on the suspension, you're guessing what the angles would be, but if you wait till the car is together, you get a more accurate idea of driveline angles. This takes into account of the suspension loading both front and back, the desired rake, and any unforseen issues you hadn't thought of. While you're building, don't forget the 50 foot rule, push it outside, take pics from 50 feet and see if it looks like you want it to look, cause they all look good in the shop, close to you. You can do this......
Just saw this thread. You're making great progress and yes I'm suffering "shop envy" as well! Glad to see that you've decorated your shop in Princess Auto Blue... without them a lot of us would not be able to enjoy this hobby. And that trailer rig you have looks interesting, I'll have to check it out.
My truck retains the stock rear end so that angle was fixed. I actually had to raise the transmission mount to get the proper angle for the drive shaft. As long as you have some wiggle room for adjustment you should be good.
Hi Trolls, This is good advice and I will be taking it - the u-bolts will suffice to hold everything in place until the body is on and I can put it up on the hoist. Thanks, George
"It was a cold and wintery night... " and my shop is not set up for winter work. With the Covid 19 thing going on, I wasn't travelling this year, so I did not make much progress on the P/U. It has been a long wait, but spring is in the air and hopefully, I will start making some major progress on my truck. I only have a few chassis items left to complete and then I will be able to start on the body (this will be my main focus over the next 6 months). Hope to have an update in a few weeks. George
OK, OK... so it's been a little longer than I expected, but I haven't been sitting on my hands. I have been working on "details" (always the hardest). I have: put in the tie rod, installed the brake lines, installed the gas line, installed the fuel sending unit, built the brake linkage, built the clutch linkage, put in the rear wiring harness, designed the electrical system. I have made some headway on the exhaust system, but ran into a bit of a wall - my MIG is not up to the task and it looks like a TIG welder is in my future.
I have to ask what “wall “ you’re ran into with the mig, I do not claim to be any kind of master with one, I had no problem making up a custom header nor a leak in the modified coolant line I built.
When I got my 39, the battery was in the floor under the seat. It was a terrible place so I put it back on the firewall where god and Henry Ford intended. Rear fenders have been plentiful in Texas
The "Wall" was my MIG welder itself. The Stainless wire was a lot stiffer than the "plain" steel which I typically use, and was giving me feed problems. Moral of the story... don't buy an Italian welder unless the seller will guarantee consumables for it's life!
Finally got the exhaust finished... I am going to run a couple of short "dumps" in front of the rear axle which will pass a "Safety Check" (mandatory vehicle check to get the truck licenced). After it is on the road, I will take in to a shop for a couple of tailpipes. Note that this will only pass as it is a truck - the exhaust must extend past the passenger compartment. I also got the rear emergency brake cable brackets welded onto the frame (they are hidden by the exhaust pipes at the back of the "X". This was the last major task to do on the chassis - all of the rest of the parts (like the radiator) are repaired, painted and ready to be bolted on. Next - the body!
The Jalopy Journal
