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Projects A 40 Ford Sedan Deluxe Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Scott's 40, Jun 5, 2020.

  1. 911 steve
    Joined: Nov 29, 2012
    Posts: 678

    911 steve
    Member
    from nebraska


    I have a pair of frt reg's from my 40 rebuild, as far as I know they work ok. bought them on ebay but went pwr windows instead, gears are good, turn free...$50 for the pr plus shipping from Denver P7080001.JPG P7080002.JPG P7080003.JPG P7080004.JPG P7080005.JPG gears are good, turn free but need new rollers.....$50 plus shipping from Denver
     
    loudbang and kidcampbell71 like this.
  2. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Thanks for the offer. They look really good, but I don't have the rollers or the capability for mounting them. I'm going to go ahead and order up NOS. But thanks again for your offer.
     
    loudbang and kidcampbell71 like this.
  3. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,092

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    That’s so cool you still have your high school hot rod!

    heres mine, that’s the stock 40 axle dropped 2” with a full leaf pack and reversed eyes. Rear is reversed eye with two leaves pulled. Front tires are 6.00x16 and it does rub the edge of the fender a bit but only when cranked hard during parking. I initially had 5.90x15 up front and that smaller wheel and tire did not rub.

    Jason is correct that you can get a slightly narrower track width using a 33-36 axle and I suspect he means his 36 axle was dropped to a total of 4” (2.25” over stock) as a 36 axle dropped 4” over stock would be relegated to wall hanger status. Also keep in mind the 37-41 axles have a little more “factory drop” than the 33-36 so a specified drop height means a different total drop depending on what era the axle is. A split wishbone will offer a bit more roll resistance than an unsplit one, the further the bones are spread apart at the back the more anti-roll characteristic you will see.
    5D7017B9-5A15-4636-87FA-34BB92A9C545.jpeg 88ECB4A8-F94D-46F0-8B41-1A506231E193.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2020
    1-SHOT, stillrunners, Stogy and 11 others like this.
  4. ...........Excellent point. Just don't forget to re-align the front of the wishbones at the shackles to avoid any bind there.
     
  5. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Back in high-school, when I would be out and driving it around town, somebody (always older and sometimes with grey hair) would pull up to me at the light and with a big smile would say something like: "Wow! I had one of those!" I'd get excited and say: "Neat! Do you still have it?" At which point the smile would disappear and they would say "No, I sold it. And I wish I wouldn't have." Doesn't take too many of those experiences and you decide "I think I'm going to keep this." And I did!!
     
  6. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Slow day today. I emptied the trunk and tried to get things organized and stored; and I got the rear bumper off and started spraying PB Blaster on the body/frame bolts.

    I had a bunch of old stuff in the trunk that I'm going to have to put up for sale, not sure how the market for "old junk" is doing these days:
    brake parts  R.jpg brake shoes  R.jpg
    And then there are these:
    generator painted #1  R.jpg generator with fan #1  R.jpg
    Not sure where I got a GM 3-speed tranny:
    3 speed tranny #1  R.jpg
    Some stuff I've got to store away for later use:
    misc parts bag #2  R.jpg
    And more stuff I have to store for when I put everything back together:
    July 14 stuff in trunk  R.jpg
    And after much grunting I actually got some bolts loose. The air-hammer wouldn't do it. I finally got out my large breaker bar ratchet and made things happen.:
    July 14 removed rear bumper  R.jpg
    I did a bunch more cleaning up and then got started spraying the body bolts.

    I'm trying to be very consistent about noting where each piece goes or what storage bin it goes into. Every time I think to myself "I'll remember putting it in here" I immediately think "No you won't!" and then write it down in my tear-down notebook.

    I need to order a wire brush for my 4.5" Milwaukee grinder so I can clean off the frame. Any recommendations for what to get? Also, the inside of the door panels and side panels look to have been sprayed with some kind of tar as part of the production process. Do you try to remove that, or just leave it in place? I plan to eventually line the interior surfaces with sound/heat reducing foil (or whatever the heck it is called).
     
  7. geoford41
    Joined: Jul 26, 2011
    Posts: 762

    geoford41
    Member
    from Delaware

    Writing down is good but take pictures with your cell phone and keep it in a separate file in the phone or download to your computer.
    nothing like a picture!
    Good luck!
     
    lothiandon1940 and loudbang like this.
  8. I had a discussion with a hot rod buddy this morning. He mentioned that he wished he didn't dispose of truck transmission he got when he picked up his flathead. Got rid of some needed bellhousing parts in the process. I told him, I keep everything until car is done. You never know, what is what, what can be modified to use.
    Don't get rid of the trunk contents until you're done, I guess is what I'm saying.
     
  9. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    I spent most of the day underneath the 40 taking out the body to frame bolts. I also pulled the old wire loom out of the back part of the frame. There really aren't ways to take very good pictures of this process - it's just dirty and frustrating. Less than half came willingly, the rest I had to use my 4.5 inch grinder or my Dremel where the grinder couldn't reach. Afterward I rocked the body back and forth to get it loose. It took some shaking but it came loose, so I am pretty sure I got them all. July 21 body to frame bolts out  R.jpg
     
  10. Good job - know it's not fun !
     
    loudbang likes this.
  11. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Oh-Oh, What's going on here? What's he doing with those 2x4s and 2x6s?
    July 28 2by4s and 2by6s  R.jpg
    And then, up in the attic space:
    July 28 strapping  R.jpg
    I'm humming "chain-gang"
    August 4 chain close-up  R.jpg
    Nice new ceiling feature:
    August 11 ceiling hole  R.jpg
    Hmmm, could look better, what can I find and modify from Home Depot?
    August 11 disc  R.jpg
    Taa-Daa
    August 11 discs in  place  R.jpg
     
    Finn Jensen, enloe, brEad and 5 others like this.
  12. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    I really like your hole plates, now I know what to do with the ones I have
     
    loudbang likes this.
  13. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

    Be interesting to see how you lift yours, it’s yet another job on my list..
     
    loudbang likes this.
  14. That is a nice, tidy solution you have there!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  15. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    I cut two 2x4s to about 5 feet in length that will sit through the front and back windows and be used to lift the body. I also cut up a thick kneeling pad and glued the pieces onto short 2x4 pieces. After the glue dries I'll have to attach them crosswise to the ends of the 5 foot long 2x4s. They will protect the window frame from damage when I lift the car.

    August 11 laminating lifting pads  R.jpg
    I also bought some steel saw horses that carry 1100 lbs each so they should be able to carry the load
     
  16. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    I guess the main event for the day was that Mark brought my flathead back from Frank, the engine builder. They had gotten it running and now I can sell it to get some $$s to get a real motor. We had some fun getting the hoist over the lip of the garage floor.
    Aug 25 - Flathead returned  R.jpg

    You can see the 2x4 in my hand that I was doing the Yosemite Sam "Hah Mule!" thing with.
    Aug 25 - Flathead  R.jpg
    Most of the day was spent putting these things together.
    Aug 25 - body lifts  R.jpg

    The come-a-long cable will run under the board from end to end, through the U-Bolts. and up the notch to the ceiling chain hoist points. That light blue thing you can see between the wood and the door frame is the kneeling pad I cut up. It is really quite hard foam and should give the door metal good protection.
    Aug 25 - body lift in place  R.jpg
    Rube Goldberg, anyone?
     
  17. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,516

    alchemy
    Member

    I wouldn't pull on the doors. They have a gap between the body and door, and the weight will bend something and close up that gap. Maybe it will stay bent, maybe not. I wouldn't risk it.
     
  18. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,784

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    I agree with alchemy, remove the doors.
     
  19. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Look’s like someone Agree to Disagree
     
    loudbang likes this.
  20. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 31,144

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    or at least just open them....
     
  21. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 31,144

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    ok, what is a real motor??
     
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  22. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    My brother noted that the come-a-long cable would likely dig into the wood at the end of my lift bar. So, here is the fix. You are looking up in this picture and this shows the bottom of the lift bar. You can see that I have the shaft of a spike across the gap and the come-a-long cable will slide (hopefully) across this and not be able to dig into the wood. The shaft is braced against the U-bolt so it won't be going anywhere.
    August 29  lift bar mod for cable slider 1  R.jpg

    Here's a picture from a more normal perspective: The lift bar is resting on the bottom of the window opening. Once I rig up the come-a-long the lift bar cushion will be against the top of the window opening.
    August 29 lift bar mod for cable slider 2  R.jpg

    We'll see if the come-a-longs work as conjectured
     
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  23. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,536

    The 39 guy
    Member

    I also think you may damage your doors. If you were to put something in the gap between the door and body you might have less of a chance of causing damage.

    You have probably already pulled the body by now anyway.
     
    Jim Bouchard likes this.
  24. I don't like the idea that the cable needs to move across your lifting 2x4's in order to keep the body level. If you really want to lift from 4 points to balance the body, I suggest you use 4 come alongs...or chain lifts. I've lifted bodies using 2 chain lifts and a board, steel bar or lifting strap across the door openings (with doors off or open) and my engine hoist at the rear.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2020
  25. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    I raised mine with brackets that I made to fit the hinge mounts on the cowl and a bar under the center of the rear wheel openings. I used 4 come along’s worked great on a sedan delivery.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  26. Good looking car! I have a 40 deluxe sedan myself. I don't mean to be rude, but if you plan on selling that (what looks to be) chrome stock chevy air cleaner, let me know. Been looking for one for the 283 in my car
     
  27. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Thanks for the compliment! I started out by putting a 283 in this car many years ago. Later on, I started to restore it and got rid of the 283. Biggest mistake I ever made. Now I have to find another 283 or maybe something a bit more modern. So, at least for now, I need to keep that air-cleaner. It's pretty cool isn't it?
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  28. it is cool! Here is my 40, which has a dropped axle, springs, 283 and stock trans and rear

    EFC4E061-4877-44FA-92F6-2D71D2FE765E.jpeg EA442748-3F35-4F39-9C7D-DD5BD4148C54.jpeg
     
  29. Scott's 40
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 265

    Scott's 40
    Member
    from VA

    Very nice! I had my 283 in front of the stock tranny and rear-end and managed to break an axle and a transmission mount. Just a little too much power for the old equipment!
     
    chryslerfan55, brEad and loudbang like this.
  30. It can be, especially with a high schooler driving it :)

    Thousands and thousands of 40 Fords (or any fat fender Ford) got early chevs installed in them. I don't run this car hard, it's just a family cruiser
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.

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