Does anyone know of a company that sells red oxide urethane primer? Looked all over with no success. Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided.
A few years ago, my buddy had his wagon sprayed with dark red tinted urethane primer. As time went on, it turned a BEAUTIFUL pink because of the suns rays. It sure was Purdy!
Primer of any type is not meant to be a finish coat. All will eventually fade and break down , even epoxy. Many colors created in the last 20 years or so require a certain shade ground coat and that's where tintable primer came about. Like sdroadster said Hot rod flats has a color that is close but not primer.
TCP GLOBAL will add flattener to any of the paints in their restoration line, I ordered some recently for interior dash paint. Im sure other suppliers will also. Or mix your own, https://www.semproducts.com/product/color-coattm-flattener/flattener
I tried mixing my own using white urethane. Turned out pink. I need red oxide urethane to seal out the primer that I used with lacquer thinner. When I try to top coat the red oxide primer I used I get a crazing of the paint. Thanks for the suggestions, anyone else have any ideas.
Paint it shiny,stop falling into BS bubble,of primer was anything other then prep for shiny. Use primer called for with shiny.
I'm going to tell you what you don't want to hear. Remove the red primer. I went through a similar exp. back in 2006. The best answer I found was to strip and start over. Anything else will be temporary and end badly. The primer from the 60's isn't the same formulation as newer stuff. I posed the same type of question at a PPG seminar with Sam Foose and Art Himsel and got nothing easy out of it.
Not without knowing exactly what it is you're trying to accomplish. 6 years ago I needed to paint red oxide primer on the inside and underside of a car, and it had to look like it was an almost new car from the 1960s, that had been set up for racing. I got some Nason red oxide lacquer primer, and used that. I was able to paint over it with Nason acrylic enamel on other parts such as the dashboard and firewall, with no problem. After using the car a lot, it looks like a race car that's only a few years old, just like I wanted. I live where it's dry, but drive it where it's wet on occasion, and have not had any issues with rust. But how to get that look with something fake? I have no clue.
As said, you will need to remove the un-catalyzed primer first. Anything you put over it will be destined to fail. PPG had this issue way back when they came out with urethane top coats...the paint would come off in sheets!
Could spray the car with epoxy primer, then shoot it with red oxide lacquer. At least it would be sealed up. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'll start from the beginning. I have always had a running street rod since I have been 16. When attending the last NSRA Street Rod Nationals held in St Paul I saw my first 37 Ford cabriolet and fell in love. I had to have one. Started looking, but could not find one that was not completely rotted or was just too expensive. While attending the Nats South several years later I saw and individual with a sign on his back selling a 38 cabriolet. I knew 38 cabriolet bodies were exactly the same as a 37, with the exception of the body side trim and an extra hole on the cowl., I bought it. When I went to pick it up, he showed me the 38 sheet metal he had with the body. Four new old stock fenders, perfect hood and side panels. I had to buy them. Now I still had a running street rod an a pickup project I had just started. Did the entire frame, running gear and body of the 38. While attending the Nats East the following year a very nice 38 coupe showed up. It was painted a 1998 Honda color which I really liked. Went to local PPG paint supplier and had him mix two gallons of the color. PPG DBU 5348. I painted the body, hood and side panels leaving only the four fenders to be painted. Things changed and had to put the 38 on a side burner. Last year I felt it was time to finish the 38. When I got ready to paint the fenders I opened the can of paint that I had saved and it was like syrup. Tried thinning, but no success! Went to the PPG dealer, which has now changed over to a new name. I had saved the formula of the original paint and gave to the employee. He told me the violet toner that was in my original paint was no longer available. Took my side panel which was already painted years ago and he shot it with their paint camera. Told me they had a 99% match, so purchased a quart. Painted a test panel and it was way to dark. Went back and he tried again with no success. Went to a Limco paint dealer. He took a picture and came back with a color from a KIA that printed out that the color was darker and bluer. I gave him the formula of the original paint on the car. He was able to find the paint code and guaranteed a match. I purchased a gallon because it was much less expensive than the PPG paint. Made up a test board with different color primers from white to 5 different grays and then red oxide. The red oxide produced the closest match, but I had to use lacquer primer in the red oxide. Looked great the night I sprayed the color and cleared it, but the next morning when I checked, it had crazed. I was told I could not shoot the Limco paint over a lacquer thinned primer. So now I am looking for a red oxide primer that is not thinned with lacquer primer. End of longed winded story.
Go buy a tintable sealer and have them tint it close to red oxide. Take a sample in of what you want. Personally, even though it sucks, I would repaint the whole car so it all has the same paint on it. It will all match 100% and you have a better chance of matching any repairs if you have to make them down the road.
I use this stuff on the bottoms of 2nd gen F bodies to mimic the factory GM color. I mix 50/50 DP90 black and DP74 red PPG catalyzed epoxy primer. Beats the hell out of pink!
I think I thinned it too much and put too many coats on . I ended up killing it a bit that last time with some VHT semi flat clear which is in that rattle bomb in the first picture.
Ah, you want to use primer as primer, not as a flat paint job. Awesome. DBU is base clear. If your just doing one panel using red oxide as the primer to allow match, why not strip the one panel. Paint with red oxide thats is compatible with your Limco color match. Or have a sealer, that will lock down the old paint job, tinted to red oxide color. Epoxy primer uses utethane reducer, check out southern polyurethanes, their epoxy has mix directions for direct to metal as well as how to thin to use as a sealer. https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ Id get rid of any lacquer on the panels though.
I took some red oxide from a spray can and had the paint store match it. single stage, then 3000 grit sand paper. Made a nice semi gloss look. I don’t have any good pics. It’s was an experiment for school. There are also red epoxies available.
The Jalopy Journal
