So our father son project will start this winter, my sons 63 Rambler classic. I have 1968 327 with a mild cam, double hump heads, turbo 350 and if it fits an 8” with 2-79 gears. At this point we don’t know how big of a Rear tire will fit but I’m thinking it will not be to tall. I also don’t know the weight of the car but it can’t be to much it seems like a pretty tinny car. years ago I had a 47 ford with a 327, stock 350 and a 10 bolt with 2-73 rear gear. The car was a slug and I don’t want to repeat the performance (or lack of) that car. Edit: this car will be super low budget. 19 year old kid on a Wal-mart salary .
Problem is the rear gearing, not the torque converter stall. It would be better if you could find lower gears, even 3.00 are fairly popular. Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
Do we have any goto tranny guys here in the Hills since Neil shut down D&F and retired? I have no idea?
Yes, a 3.24 or 3.50 would even be better. It isn't fun to drive a car on the street with a really high stall converter.
X6 on the higher gears. Substitute an overdrive transmission for the turbo 350. Best of both worlds. Relatively low RPM highway cruising and not a slug on takeoff. Good luck with your father/son project. Are Ramblers unibody? Reason I ask... I wonder if they need subframe connectors.
Yes they are. Will do a subframe connector due to the fact that we Going to use a truck arm rear suspension. We need something to tie the crossmember to.
Why? Your solution lies in the rear gear set, not some converter stall. I've had 3.5 gears in a car with 14" wheels. The pep improvement over the 2.78 stock set was night and day. Highway rpm difference insignificant. Still with stock converter.
interesting, I've noticed a significant difference in highway RPM going from 2.75 to 3.50 gears. Its like losing your overdrive. But that's not to say that you can't drive on the highway with 3.50 gears and no overdrive...you just get to enjoy hearing the engine working, is all.
In the US there are a highways with posted 80 (and one 85) limits. Lots of 75 signs, and folks usually go 80 there.
Yes. Given my age, I also did plenty of driving over there when 55 mph was the max. And I got a ticket.
Ok back to the original question, what is a recommended converter? Thank you everyone on Pointing out that the rear gear is to high, we will have to look around for a lower gear.
Your cam will dictate converter selection. I ran a Crane 272-2 in an otherwise stock 302 with a stock converter on a C4, I had a 2.79 gear. It worked, but I would have been better off with about 500 rpm more stall speed because at idle it wanted to creep.
Most stock converters seem to be in the 1600-1800 range max stall. Of course that is dependent on many factors, but most are in that range for the V8s we are dealing with. Unless you have a big enough cam that your idle speed has to be higher around 1000 rpm, a stock converter will work. If higher idle speed is needed, then a looser converter helps the creeping and increased brake force required. Also generates more heat, but that's a different question and problem. You say it is mild cam, so I would suggest a stock converter should be fine. If you really want more stall, don't go more than 2200. Otherwise you have too much slip all the time, and that heat issue can come into play.
^^^^this-On a few 40's 327.turbo 350 3:00 rear-Crane 266/440 cam-light car-stall about 1800-2000 per trans guy-just right-with a stock converter it would want to creep a bit a stop signs etc. Used this same combo on several 40's On the latest 40 we did-327 but a more agressive cam-3:50 rear--same stall and no creep -ran pretty strong too.
When I had my Turbo 350 built to go behind the 350 (268 Comp cam) in my 66 Suburban the guy put in one of his "plain brown wrapper" RV converters, seemed to work good.
I used a stock converter but had it loosened up to 2200/2500 rpm. I love it! I have maybe a little more cam than you are talking about. I think the company is Atlantic converters in NC? Seem like good quality. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Ok. So here's my take on this. I just read your kids post on this car. And it's a COOL CAR! Like any kid, he wants a sleeper with a good sound and a little bite. Well 2 something gears and a stock converter AIN'T it!. Even a mild 327 could be tons of fun with a good converter and some decent gears. Can someone tell me what's so wrong with 3.73???? I have 3.73s in 2 different cars and I love em. Put 3.73s or at least 3.55s and a 3500 stall converter in that thing and that MILD 327 will be a blast for a kid to drive
Damn back in the day I ran 327 with the oem 350 horse cam with turbo 400, 2200 stall and 4:88 posi. Fun truck, topped out at 110 but hey the speed limit was 55 at the time....
I have a 59 rambler wagon with a 350/th350, truck arm suspension and ford 8.8 with 3.27 gears. Air bags all around. Goes like stink when you hammer it and crusies at 70 mph on the expressway at 3k rpm. Even though the rambler is a uni body it is the strongest one you'll find. It's not a traditional unibody like you think. It has full 'sills', frame rails, that run front to back entire length of the car. Plenty of meat to weld to and super strong. As long as yours isint rotted out it will make a great low buck hotrod. Check out the amc forum in the frankenrambler section for all things pertaining to engine swaps, suspension upgrades and drivetrain conversions.
One other thing you might wanna consider. I saw the rear end in the other post, and it doesn't look like the typical ford 8 inch rear end to me. I'm not sure what it's from, but it looks a little odd. I get that you already have it, so might as well use it. But I would hate to go through all that work of installing that rear with the truck arm suspension. Then a few years latter you decide to change gears and find out you can't find em or if you do they're stupid expensive. Then your back to finding a different rear end and going through all that again.
rusty, I’d get a stock car converter not a truck. Like they all say a little lower gear will help. 3.25-3.50 is nice My son build a pick up in HS with close to what you are doing and even with a 3.25, it was a little dead. The cam was a typical 260 RV. He complained a lot about off line performance so we removed the cam gear and installed one of those bushing kits adding the 6 degree offset bushing. That truck ran like stripped ass ape. Changed its whole personality. Just another thought but when add a cam you take a little “crack of the throttle” performance. Advancing it brings it back.
One that works. As has been noted need to know the cam specs, intended use and other engine modifications. Way too broad of a question to even expect an answer.
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