Technical Original headlights VS sealed beam

Thanks, I might try that with just the regular non halogen lights I pulled out of the panel truck.....I'm not particular about them being T3's.

Might be an interesting test between the halogen hybrid vs the factory SilverStar sealed beam.

 

Just for the sake of sharing information.

I got a dermal diamond bit and chucked it up in the press. I pivoted the press over so the light would be sitting center on the foot of the press. A roll of tape to spin on and hold the light up. The press was set on medium speed. I locked the chuck so the bit was sitting on the split line.

To cut, I scored a line as a guide all around. Then I just kept spinning around the bulb only using light pressure. Every third or forth pass I let the bulb and bit cool. After a while I heard a slight crack and I knew the lense was splitting from the rear of the bulb.



**The first time I used a bulb that was already broken. I did this to learn so if I messed up it wasn’t a loss. If you look in the first shot you can see the tape that was holding the light together. After this there wasn’t much finesse needed everything went true to the instructions.

 

Thanks. Another use for the drill press.
You forgot to add the disclaimer: "This is for entertainment only. Don't try this at home"

 

You Phord guys at least have options. I had to make headlights for my '36 Willys. I busted the front out of a 7" sealed beam. Then I cast an epoxy mold in the reflector of that light, building up one side of the mold to account for the slant in the hood. Then I laid up a couple fiberglass buckets using gel coat for a gloss surface. I epoxied the lamp holder sockets I broke out of a couple junkyard foreign headlights to accept halogen bulbs after mounting the buckets in my hood and aiming them at a wall for alignment. I had the resulting buckets chrome plated.

Here is the only picture I have of the epoxy reflector mold. I am using it to prop up the mold for the Mysterion headlight pod I made in this photo.



I bought a couple '33 Willys repro glass lenses and cut a couple rims from 1/4" aluminum with a jigsaw and polished them. I am pretty sure mine are not DOT approved but they work pretty well!!

 

I'm another one who believes in decent wires. My Pontiac has standard 7" sealed beams from the factory.
The factory wiring was specified for 6V, but was carrying 12V. Same power consumption from the bulb (45W) but double the current so the factory wiring should have been able to handle it just fine.

To say it did is correct but the resistance to current even over the short distance it was traveling was enough to make the bulbs dim, a deep yellow. They lit up but that's about the end of it.

I rewired the headlight circuit with nearly double the size conductor wire, and the lights now are white and the voltage drop at the lights is no longer in the order of volts, but a few tenths of a volt and that's mostly lost at the switch.


They're set a little high in that picture but they're as good as any other vehicle with federal spec lighting.

So, before you write off a lower wattage bulb with good reflectors and a nice clean lens, check the wiring is up to snuff. If it's original to the car there's a very good chance it won't be; the suggestion to add relays and provide a switched, heavy gauge supply to the bulbs will often help greatly, enough that you wouldn't have to consider changing the light assemblies if they're in otherwise good shape.

The only caveat I find is wet nights, the light from these just gets sucked into the pavement but that's common to most types of incandescent light.

Phil

 

This is timely since I was having a hard time driving home the other night in the 35 Produce truck. I couldn't see crap. I have sealed beams, but they just don't seem to keep up with my old eyes anymore.

I see Drake has them in their catalog, but wait for it.........they are out of stock!

https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.a...Category=a18b1eb8-bb5f-45c2-b451-fa3c46010bb1

Surprised? Nah.......

 

Not surprised, but that is the item I would recommend you use. I have them and they are quite effective.
Phil

 

Yes don’t try this at home! If you do I can’t be held responsible.

 

Thanks, looks like a plan. I bought some Autopals off of eBay, have either the old sealed beams in the Guide lights or the ones from the panel. I did spend some extra on the adhesive, I bought some 3M Scotch-Weld DP 100+ 2 part epoxy, a generic applicator and a 5 pack of generic mixing nozzles. I did some research and found that this was great for strength, flexibility, heat and bonding metal to glass, but it was $29 for 1.64 fl oz.

I wonder if I have enough for 2 sets of lights, as I don't think the epoxy will keep after it's been opened. Right now all the vehicles but 1 run the 7" sealed beams, so the odds I will use more in the future is good.

 

That adhesive should keep so long as you throw the nozzle away and use a new one next time.

 

i had marchals on my shoebox in the '70s--worked great, but they leaked water, which ruined the reflective finish.