Technical Overdrive lock out cable alternatives

The cable is froze up on my Mercury and was pricing new ones and everyone is very proud of them so anyone know of a cheaper alternative,I would think a choke cable would be a little too wimpy for the job.

 

Perhaps riding lawn mower throttle cable...here's a link to one on ebay...$15 new.
They used to be a larger diameter than choke cables....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Snapper-Ri...Assembly-Part-No-A-B1SB233-1113-/263196075719

 

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-stop-cable-cc66?cm_vc=-10005

72 inches long. only $12.99. I have a couple of these on my OT Cummins swap (Engine shut off and air horn).

If 72 inches is not long enough, take this picture into a real parts store (not "Blister-Pack-City") and ask for something longer.

P.S. That throttle control center wire looks a little light duty.

EDIT: See post below

 

I have several "overdrive" cables I've bought from that auction site we all know and love. They are all fairly inexpensive. You pay the shipping, and I'll send you one; the last Muncie 319 OD trans I have is going to a new owner, so I no longer have use for these cables. Just do the PM thing. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Look at heavy equipment, Forklift’s , floor scrubbers etc.

lots of this type of “actuating cables” used on them and all pretty cheap.

I would look for a throttle cable or parking brake cable that you can adapt an end on for strength and you can incorporate the adjustability factor as well.

 

Hi Jeff, a man i know has a 56 ford with O/D, he used a PTO CABLE from a tow truck. its made for a trans, should work good. you are in a big city, must have a truck body place . good luck, Pete.

 

Push/Pull control cables are common on heavy duty commercial mowers. But, they are expensive new. Might check with a local repair shop to see if they have any used ones. Those are usually better quality than a factor OD cable too.

 

Macs wanted 55 and only found one on that auction site less then 30,most on there were about the same as Macs. I was figuring around 25 would have been a good price but I was way off.

 

Does the cable have to lock in position? I think that's also part of the reason pricing can get high. Has to be stiff enough to push/pull, but also, lock.

 

I do not think it has to lock but this is my first overdrive trans and its froze up.

 

@junkyardjeff

I think that oem O/D cables did not have any sort of lock. The friction between the center wire and spiral wrap is sufficient for the cable to remain in the chosen position. In addition, there is no internal force in the O/D trying to move the O/D lever. Any of the heavier duty cables mentioned should be adequate for your need.

 

Sounds like the deal you need.

Thanks to Butch.

 

Ok. I had a 56 Chevrolet with overdrive system, and that cable you had to pull out, and twist handle, so that a groove cut in the bottom of handle would lock it in place. Don't know about the Ford ones. Thanks, the more info the better.

 

When I first got my 57 Bird, the vent cables were frozen. I removed them, clamped the housing lightly in a vise with the knob end down, made a funnel from heavy paper and taped it around the working end of the cable. I then filled the "funnel" with ATF and let it set for a day. That let gravity pull the fluid inside the housing. One of them took a couple of days and taking it out of the vise and flexing the cable housing and then back with the "funnel" and ATF. Eventually fluid came out the knob end and the cable was free. They have been working fine in the car for the last 24 years.

 

Get one from Butch and then soak your old one. I had a few o/d and vent cables the were frozen over the years, but was always able to get them working again......of course there's no serious rust here .

I think the price is for the long, thick cable with the nice chrome "T" handle. I just looked at a new one, $49.95....seems to me they used to be like $75 or $90 years ago ?!?!

 

My Grandfather gave me some advice when
I was a young man.....he said “soak it in cider”.......

 

Is there a large boat yard close around you? Or a marine salvage? Throttle and steering cables on my old Chris Craft were pretty stout along with being stainless and well protected


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I got the cable out and its not as thick as I was expecting,its the same as a factory choke cable and my dumb ass lost the bolt that attached the cable to the arm.

 

Call Control Cable In Santa Fe Springs, Ca. They made one (had it on the shelf) for my fuel shut off. It could push/pull and twist lock.

 

Find Control Cables here

http://www.controlcables.com/
Phil

 

The groove prevents the handle from turning. You only thought it was locking ....
And Jeff - unless your cable has a plastic handle, you can coil it into a tight loop & soak it in a container of ATF, brake fluid, diesel fuel, PB blast, vinegar, or whatever for a couple days. Unless it's a total coil of rust, it'll work again. After it's freed up, straighten the trans end with pliers, pull the wire out, blow out any remaining crud & grease the housing up, then replace the wire.

 

WAY in cider!!!.......Mark

 

@302GMC , always thought it was a lock or position holder. Faded memories on my part. Thanks.

 

The boat, industrial cables are Morse cables.....same ones Control sells. Also Morse has a bunch of different ends to choose from.

 

These type might work (cable stops)
Dorman 03339

 

His shifter AND new cable are on the way. There you go. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

I will have to look in to one of those if that bolt can not be found.

 

Found the bolt,it rolled under the seat and did get the cable freed up but went to straighten it out where it went through the bolt and it broke off.