Projects '52 Catalina Super DeLuxe Custom Build

Degreased and cleaned so I could spray bomb the engine bay black after a little scuffing with a red 3M pad.

 

Connected my Summit AN -6 fittings to my 3/8" PTFE Stainless Braided Fuel Line and attached it to my 3/8" Fuel sending unit. I ran it in the original path of the fuel line. It required a few more mounting brackets to keep the slack out but it was so easy to install and I hear great things about this line.

Not convinced I should run it under the top A-arm but that is where the original line ran granted that was 5/ 16" steel line. I may avoid that area by turning in that last mount another 45 degrees. It all seems taut and shouldn't do any slapping on the frame.

 

I decided to buy a front suspension kit for the Chief. I figured I may as well do this now while the front end is apart and ensure some tight steering with new bushings. All of mine are currently dried and cracked. It was an expensive choice at $530 but I found four sellers and "old.parts" on Ebay had it for the cheapest including the $18 dollar shipping. The other three were Kanter Auto Products for $616, Hagens Auto Parts for $1038.34, and Pontiac Parts for $769.35.

 

Hmm, I'm suddenly not looking forward to buying bushings for the Star Chief.

Good work so far! Did you ever consider that newfangled copper/nickel alloy for brake and fuel lines? I've been using it on my last few projects, and I really, really like it. Cheap and easy to work with.

 

Yeah after looking through the Pontiac owner's manual I decided I'm going to have a hotrod/speedshop do the front end suspension swap once I get the car driving. I did successfully install the stabilizer bar hardware pretty easily. I am little worried the A-arms stuff might be too heavy of a swap for me and tools on hand.


So, I am planning on using copper/nickel alloy lines for my brake lines! I did a bunch of research on the SS braided PTFE lines and opted for that because it seemed so bad ass. While installing and realizing how much play is in those steel braided flexible lines and how often I used hangers, I will go copper/nickel for rigid brake lines. Happy to hear its working for you, reinforces my thought to use them.

 

Finally got my front rotors installed after weeks of issues. The conversion kit is made to be 5x5 for the rotor. I wanted 5x4.75 to match the rear axle. So I got a different kit per recommended by Autocity Classic in Isanti, MN. The rotors were rubbing the steering arms, the inner bearing wouldn't seat properly, etc. So after 3 weeks and 3.5 hours of driving back forth from Autocity Classic I got the original kit and found someone to drill out the desired stud pattern. Nightmare.

1995 Chevy c10 2wd front rotor with a modified outer bearing
1983 Chevy k10 front caliper and pads

 

WHEELS!!! Rear end is nice and low. Front end is up and hopefully just needs a motor to lower it. Hoping to drop it in this weekend and start fitting and mocking up the brake booster and pedal.

 

Nik, sent you a PM.

 

A lot of progress was made when a friend came in town and we did a 2 day stint to knock out brakes, exhaust and get the motor running. The first pic is when I finally dropped the 350 back into the engine bay after 6 months of it sitting on the garage floor. The second pic is 2 days later, after two 18 hour stretches of getting after it. It was an amazing feeling hearing the motor run. Legit gave me goosebumps. I still have a lot of finishing detail work to do on the engine, brakes and exhaust but I'm really feeling good about the progress.

 

Sweet! Great job

 

A month ago I installed the disc/disc proportioning valve on the MC and crushed the flares while also damaging the Pvalve connections going nuts on tightening the fittings, a $65 mistake. I finally got around to installing the new one. While the back half of the car's brakes are fully installed all the way to the Pvalve I had issues with my 20" brake hoses rubbing tires on the front. I finally found 10 or 11" hoses and have started playing with where these will mount on the frame with the car up in the air. I dropped the car down off the jack stands and before I started turning the tires back and forth I figured I'd get the Pvalve installed. I'm really looking forward to finishing up the brake system and moving to throttle cable, shift linkage and radiator install.

Parts:
Proportioning Valve (could have fitting line up better into MC. Might have to make up copper nickel ones later that are longer and have less stress throughout.)
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-D...g-Valve-for-1-2-20-9-16-18-Outlets,13539.html
Power Disc Brake Master Cylinder
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Righ...Brake-Master-Cylinder-1-Inch-Bore,122326.html
Brake Booster
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...ower-Booster-in-Black-Powder-Coat,296885.html

 

I finished connecting the -6AN fuel line to the fuel filter and into the fuel pump. I originally had the line cut in on the crossmember but it was only about 2” away from the exhaust manifold so I rerouted it up on the wheel well.


I dropped the radiator in and mocked up some simple flat bar mounts to attach the rad to the original mounting holes. This is a 47-54 Chevy truck 3-row aluminum radiator from Champion Radiators. I bought a new 13psi rad cap because I heard from many people the original leaks.


Gas shocks from KYB to accommodate the 4" drop. Compressed Length: 12.72" Extended Length: 20.39" Stroke Length: 7.68" I measured the ride height at 15 or 16" from upper to lower mounting eyelet.



I should mention I had a custom made 60" driveshaft made and I replaced the outer transmission seal where the driveshaft slips in. Mounted right up. Was expensive as hell.

I plugged my heater hose ports since I won't run heat this fall or maybe even next year. I moved the water temp sensor for the radiator fan to the next port over from the middle 3/8" port since it was bottoming out there. With the 1/2" conversion piece it snugs up nice. I am super afraid of cracking my aluminum casting with these brass pipe threaded fittings though. I had a brand new water pump I broke tightening down the 1/2" plug on the top with a 1/2" drive ratchet. It just kept spinning with ease and then CRACK. Paranoia is on peak.

 

Bought some sexy electric AutoMeter gauges for the under dash mount. I'm excited to see these puppies working. Flipping $264 after tax and free shipping.
Part #:
ATM-2238: TD GAUG MOUNTING PANEL TRIPLE
ATM-2634: TD GAUG OIL PRESSURE 2 1/16
ATM-2635: TD GAUG WATER TEMP 2 1/16
ATM-2645: TD GGE VOLTMETER 2 1/16 1

 

Really seeing the progress in the engine bay. I installed a V belt, upper & lower radiator hoses, transmission cooling lines, and radiator over flow can. I know a lot of people don't use the radiator hookup for the transmission cooling and will just buy a separate tranny cooler but I figured why not? It looks clean and should work, right?


I installed the Lokar Throttle Cable and Throttle Pedal. I still need to connect the kickdown cable but I had to order a little kickdown stud to mount it. Installing the pedal and throttle cable on my angled firewall was interesting and could have gone better. I followed the instructions to drill the hole where the the cable would connect to the pedal's throttle arm but I didn't account for the 45 degree angle on the firewall so there was bad rubbing. I had to move the pedal up a half inch and re drill more holes in my firewall to mount the pedal. I have no idea if I should have used a floor mounted pedal because I never got a chance to mock one up. It would have been nice to compare the two. On the plus side, when the pedal hits the floor, the carb is wide open, success in my book. Next time, I'll have a better idea of how it all fits up.









So I'm hoping my brake pedal won't be a burden to reach in height because right now it is looking a little high up. If I didn't have that spacer to mount the bracket to the dash and it was flush across from the firewall the pedal would be the perfect height. I hope I can remedy this with just a longer rubber brake pedal.

I'm starting wiring and gauge installation this week and am getting a full exhaust install next Tuesday the 6th.

 

Great progress Lookin' good!!

 

Added 8 qts of ATF the other day to find a leaking automatic transmission vacuum modulator. I guess better now then later when it's driving. Local Advance Auto Parts had one for $16 and it was a super easy swap just messy since ATF was dumping out in the seconds it took to make sure the old o-ring was out since it wasn't on the original part and push the new one in. These are the things I am learning the hard way to replace earlier like then the engine and tranny were sitting on my garage floor for 6 months. Next time I'll do better. Honestly, it was a blessing it was leaking because I didn't know what this was and that it needed to be hooked up to my carb for a vacuum. So I would have drove and been freaking out when the tranny shifted at redline.

 

After 8 months, a few pics of the Chief on its way to have dual exhaust put on at Dave's Custom Exhaust on Payne Ave in St. Paul, MN a local legend in the hotrod game. From the exhaust shop, I dropped the car off at Bud's Speedshop in Stillwater, MN to install my Eazy Wiring 12V harness. I wanted a professional to wire up the car if I was only going to do it once (my wife hopes). I figured I'd pay to get it done right and quickly. I've been working on the car for 8 months and am eager to get it out at least once before the snow flies in MN. This is my best bet. Along with the wiring, Bud's will repair my floor pans, install my aftermarket gauges, stereo, electric wiper motor, trunk seal and third brake light (wait until you see this surprise) as well as a safety inspection check for all my work. I'm hoping the Chief will be driving next week.

 

Well the snow came yesterday. 4ish inches and the car is still at the shop getting worked on. Hoping we have a warm dry day to drive it home when it is ready. I received a few photo updates from Bud's Speedshop.

New tach is going in the center of the dash where the clock used to be. I looked at having the clock repaired but it was going to be over $400 to send it off so that was not worth it when I needed a tach and this is a sweet spot to fit it.


Wire jungle. Glad this isn't my problem.


My third brake light will be the red chief's headdress from a '51 Chieftain hood ornament. It fits right on the trunks waterfall. Very excited about this custom addition.

 

Some updates from the Speed shop. I was on my way to the car and drive it home when I got a call mid ride saying my brake proportioning valve was garbage. I had over tightened the rear brake port and damaged the seal so there was no pressure coming back on the brake pedal. That was super sad considering I was getting a ride from a friend to get dropped off and drive it home for the first time. New part comes in this morning. Hoping they can get it figured out today or tomorrow.

Tach installed and working. Have a Custom Autosound USA-740 stereo with Bluetooth and all the bells and whistles. Triple gauge set is all installed.


Third brake light chief head is installed and lighting up!


First looks at the exhaust ran. I'm happy they took some underbody pics for my records.

 

A friend of mine gave me this lighter colored visor he had gotten free but he didn't know what it came off of. I knew the hardtop needed a specific visor that was not the same as the 2door coupe. It seemed to fit fine and lined up with the drip edge to be drilled in. Still, I wasn't convinced because I knew how rare the visor is I needed. So I searched one out locally and bought the darker visor for $300. IT'S THE SAME VISOR! I can't believe I had the correct free one and bought another. At least the purchased one has better stainless trim. So I'm trying to sell the lighter one. Does anyone know what years this hardtop visor would fit on Pontiacs, Chevys and Olds?

 

So upon trying to sell one of my visors I was informed both have mounting brackets for a sedan that attaches to the drip edge as seen in the image below compared to my cars need of a wind wing bracket. Apparently, the '49 to '52 hardtop brackets are super rare and the '53 and up won't fit. I'm likely going to have to wait and find one on a car or at swap meet. The more you know!

 

Looking like it’s coming along good. Nice car.

 

I saw the Chief yesterday at Bud's Speedshop. They're still getting the brakes dialed in. We scrapped the entire Right Stuff rear disc brake kit as it was failing to build pressure on the pedal and the rotors were hella loose in the calipers to the point where they were wobbling around. Plus, the retainer clips for the pads were just garbage. Pretty upset I wasted my time and money installing those. I'm going to reach out to Speedway and try and get my $400 back. We ended up putting on Master Power Brakes rear disc kit and the rotors are tight and are working perfectly. We are going to use their kit up front too replacing the random rotors and calipers I got from Autocity classic that are having issues of their own. Get what you pay for type of deal.

 

Did I miss something? What is the deal with those headlights

 

Those are NOS headlights...
Ha, so 7” Jeep Wrangler Halo lights fit for the Chief and were $100 bucks. The halo is supposed to be amber to match and compliment the chief head when it’s lit up. Dude ordered green on accident. Instead of paying them the time to change them out I told him I’d take care of it when it comes home and certainly before it hits the road (not street legal). I still have the original headlights which could go back in. I want to see the amber halo with the chief head glowing first.

 

At first glance (not lit) they give an appearance of bug eyes. I assume the ring is lit on parking lights only? Sorry, just not liking them but as they say everyone has an opinion...you know just like xxxholes, everybody has one

 

Been following this thread from the beginning, you got a great car to get going on ,I'm assuming your first build?,
It's looking like your doing good and moving rigjt along with it.
I have been admiring your ability to work in those temperatures, I was young once and I had that fire to build no matter what....its gone now....I need a 2-ton picker just to my fat old ass back up off the floor , but I still get things done eventually.
I like that your not getting crazy with a bunch of body modifications, well so far, but I will say them head lights...well it your car to do what you wish.
Best part your working on it and learning, hopefully, as you go.
I will be following this one...keep it going...I'm praying that you can stay away from the billet and bling page's when your doing your shopping for parts.
Good job and good luck...enjoy the ride.
I have a 50 Chevrolet Bel-Air 2dr. Ht. that I have been poking along on, hopefully I will be hitting it again when my 50 Studebaker champion is finished.
Love them first GM Hard tops.

Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Yeah, those headlights...the amber won't hide the rest of them. Black's not a good look on a car like this.

 

Haha, before posting the headlight pics I kind of forgot I was hiding them from the HAMB until I decided if I liked them. The (future) amber is always on, and will flash as the turn signal, which is nice because I don't have intact turn signal glass for below the headlights. I agree with GirchyGirchy that the black background on the LED is a hard sell especially on the front face of the car. They do have chrome background ones though which I could try when I get the Amber Halo. Otherwise, still have old lenses just need to put 12V bulbs in them.

 

There are also more 'normal' looking ones like the Grote 90941-5...they're more expensive but probably higher quality, and they'd look much better. Halos should stay on the Pep-Boys shelf with the underbody neon, IMO.