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Jeep T5 trans in the torquetube

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Stovebolt, Apr 8, 2008.

  1. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,734

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    As far as I know the adapter from above is not being made any longer. However the Salt City Speed Shop in Salt lake is working on a new tail section that will fit any T-5 and has a closed drive shaft. I know they do them for model A and V8 torque tubes.
     
    31hotrodguy likes this.
  2. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    Interesting. I guess that's one way to address the scarcity of T5's. Been to a few junk yards this week. Apparently word has gotten out that s10 4x4 transmissions are worth gold. The inventory page says they're $100-250 but when you show up, they're stuffed away in a shed somewhere with a $900 price tag!
     
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  3. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,734

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    you are right about the price. The salt city guys set up can use any T-5 WC or non WC. its nice that they can do that so you can find a transmission with a better gear set in it than an S-10 4X4. On My S-10 4X4 I found that the First and second gears are a bit lower than I would like.
     
    31hotrodguy likes this.
  4. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    As of today, I’m the owner of a 4x4 S10 gearbox and transfer case....time to figure this out. We want to keep the torque tube so this will be a head scratcher since the kit is no longer available. My son and I may have bitten off more than we can chew.
     
    31hotrodguy likes this.
  5. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,395

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I did this a couple years ago and kept the enclosed driveshaft.
    @Kato Kings had made, and don't know if he still does, an adapter plate for the Jeep 4X4 T-5.
    Basically, it is an aluminum plate that bolts to the transmission where the transfer case would go, with the bolt pattern of the case. Then '35-'36 clamshells bolted to that to accept the ball of the torque tube.
    The trick is the adapter from the splined output to the u-joint spline.. Then the shaft is drilled and tapped for a bolt to attach the u-joint and adapter to it.
    I found a machine shop in Bakersfield CA that had the tooling to re-spline the drive shaft when it was shortened.
    They also shortened the housing and it was something like $125.00

    On the other end...
    I used a http://www.vintageprecision.com/products/bell_housings/index.html bell housing and I notice that Dan Price, dan4banger on the internet, is making a housing too. Another route is a AA housing. It will require an adapter plate to your T-5 With the AA housing or the Precision housing you use the AA throwout bearing.
    You are likely to have to shorten the input shaft.
    The pilot bearing diameter on the shaft will be machined smaller too. This can be part of the machining while shortening the input. shaft. I believe the 5203 ball bearing works for the pilot bearing, but that is from memory.
    There are NWC parts out there so if you miss there is recovery as well as flexibility to change things like input shaft splines. I went to an early V8 pressure plate and that is a bolt pattern change on the flywheel. You really want to do this. Precision worked with their pressure plate provider to have them manufacture a plate with the right dimensions and offset so the throw out bearing wouldn't collide with the hub of the pressure plate.
    I kept the mechanical brakes and there is some monkeying around that you will need to do if you stay with them as the radius rods shorten up and move towards the center of the car. This moves the anti-rattle brackets.
    I also had to drop the center section of the cross rod for the mechanical brakes.
    There is an e brake bracket that you will scratch your head on and I should post a picture of mine. I'll take one when I have the floor out the next time. I won't drive a car without an e-brake.
    Then I recall I had to cut the big ugly bracket off the back of the case for looks and the cross shaft.
    Also had to trim up the cross member to get the transmission to clear
    That is all I have from memory and there seems like there was something with the bell crank arm for the clutch.
    Good luck and start a thread on it. Worth the effort in my mind
     
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  6. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,581

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Last edited: Sep 29, 2020
    31hotrodguy likes this.
  7. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,193

    manyolcars

  8. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    HA, he sold it yesterday.



    That's some really great information, thanks for taking the time to post. Planning to run a AA bellhousing. Once I get more parts in my hands and on the bench, this will all start to come together a bit more. It's great having a resource like you guys that have actually done it. We've got A LOT of flexibility as the car will be a bobtail speedster. Think late 20's sprint car but with A running gear. My dad always talked about one he built in the 50's with his brother, so we're trying to recreate it based off of his stories.
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  9. mdimages
    Joined: Sep 13, 2019
    Posts: 76

    mdimages
    Member

    this is great! Killer work
     
  10. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Anyone have current information on adapter kits?
     
  11. wuga
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 569

    wuga
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here is my T5 setup, precision Engineering bell housing, about 3/4" shorter then AA. Jeep T5 with 3..38 first gear. Closed driveshaft adaptor from Kato Kings. Short throw shifter from Kato Kings with Lokar handle. 30 lb. flywheel from Burtz. Everything sourced in the past three months from very helpful people. Currently driving RPU but body coming off in November for install.

    Warren

    20220822_100722.jpg
     
  12. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,395

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @wuga Looks good
    I cut the ugly brackets off the back of the case, you have to pay attention and not cut thru the case. It looked wrong and didn't need it for support. Also, I had nothing but misery out of the KK short shifter. It fell apart every way imaginable. One time was in rural Colorado....try finding metric fasteners there. It put me down and out and decided that was the last time. I went back to a stock shifter, cutting off and notching the shaft to match the flat on the shifter.
    My $.02
    Good luck
     
    stillrunners likes this.

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