No worries Terry! I made one of the you should no better mistakes and got ahead of myself, after how easy it came apart, how good it looked and no visible cracks I "ASSumed" the block was good.
Thanks Bean! Yeah Terry!!!for practice lol Just kidding Terry, remember the assume thing, yeah now I'm a ass
But Gents! Just in case I was wrong about the POP I'm going to try some K&W block sealer and do a pressure test
So after a spell of "gosh dang it" I've picked up another block and I'm preparing for round 2 I have a question though! Has anyone ever heard of anything Thant I can pour into the block to coat it other than K&W block seal. Mean while here's my next victim! It's Canadian so please forgive me.
Hello Junk Rod To all joining in hello and I hope you have all been weathering the Covid19 storm. It has been a long spell since I've chimed in and I apologize the world has handed me lemons and I've struggled to turn the into lemonade. My funds for processing this project have dwindled drastically. And my motivation along with them. But! I'm back and though not producing as face as before I am back on the wagon and I have some great up date pics coming your way. Thanks for asking Junk Rod photos will be coming.
The list of what's been done lately and what needs to be done . The cab is ready for all the sheet-metal damage repair to be done and then to be painted still up in the air as to whether I will paint the interior of the cab and the engine compartment the original color of the truck entertaining the idea of a maroon or a hunter green the engine needs final assembly bolts torqued oil pump installed minor things. Hoping to have engine and transmission sitting on the frame by the end of October
The red and silver contrast on your engine is striking. WAY better than all shiny or all the same monochromatic color. Well played.
Thank you atch I've hoped that I hadn't made a mistake but had to keep moving forward. You are the first to offer your input again thanks for the vote of confidence
With the lack of funding slowing the project down I have as you may have noticed taken the time to grind the majority of casting marks on both engine and transmission as well as went crazy on the engine port and polishing with the guidance of a tremendously awesome guy and one of Tucsons local flathead masters
Just started following. Engine looks great Jim! I have a 8BA in my 52 F2 with the same headers. It needed the lump hammer treatment on the left side to clear the steering box when I installed it. Hopefully yours clears. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I don't know all that much about flattys can anyone tell me why they went with studs and nuts over bolts like you have. I like the look of the bolts and my only experience with flattys was a 48 coupe and found out the hard way at 15 that one can NOT get the heads off a flatty with a 3/8 in set with a breaker bar about 8 inch long LOL.
I’m no expert by any means at all but I know Ford came out with aluminum heads at one point and used studs. I believe some aftermarket aluminum heads have different length stud requirements also. Most believe that you need to use studs with aluminum heads. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
FYI, The fan pulley bract is on upside down. Install it 180 degrees so fan blades will clear radiator. Use hardened washers under head bolts.
Thanks 19Fordy Though I'm sure when it comes time to finish it up I'd have caught it but I count on the brothers here at The Hamb to help me prevent mistakes