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Technical Noob primer question

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Bewarethebob, Sep 26, 2020.

  1. Bewarethebob
    Joined: Jul 5, 2020
    Posts: 96

    Bewarethebob

    Can i do misc. Body work and cover with rustoleum auto primer from a rattle can to stop rust. then just scuff and paint with epoxy primer at a later date? 20200922_231539.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  2. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,573

    Dave Mc
    Member

    The two are completely different products and incompatible. Your local automotive paint supplier can offer the products you need for the job , which will work together .
     
    klleetrucking and Bewarethebob like this.
  3. Colin HD
    Joined: Sep 14, 2008
    Posts: 274

    Colin HD
    Member

    As per Dave Mc, when you go to paint the epoxy, all you'll get is a nasty sticky mess.
    Get a small touch-up gun & just mix-up a small batch of epoxy at a time.
     
    Bewarethebob likes this.
  4. Bewarethebob
    Joined: Jul 5, 2020
    Posts: 96

    Bewarethebob


  5. Rustoleum is an oil based paint is the problem and not compatible with automotive paint.
     
  6. Dave Mc is right. Use compatible primer spraying with a touch up gun. HF sells a cheap touch up gun that works well. Since the repairs are in rusty areas, etch primer?
     
  7. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    On Sept 1 I built a Salt Fog cabinet.I took a small beverage cooler and a $15 fogger used in terrarium's ,a quarter cup of salt and 2 gallons of water. I'm running the test for 30 days. I think you'll be surprised to see the results. I tested epoxy, self etching primer, fluid film, rustoleum rusty metal primer and one other. I'll post the video next week for any of you that would be interested. Self etch was one of the first to go south
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2020
  8. papajohn
    Joined: Nov 2, 2006
    Posts: 896

    papajohn
    Member

    SEM sells epoxy primer in a spray can. But it's pricey. Just paid $22.50 for a can of high build SEM primer.
     
  9. RidgeRunner
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 906

    RidgeRunner
    Member
    from Western MA

    Looking forward to the results of your experiment. I'm always looking for better ways to deal with the stuff I can afford here, most of which is crusty rusty.

    Ed
     
  10. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    My apologies it was September 1 . Not March 1. I think dementia setting in.
     
  11. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Sealer is non porous and will hold back rust. Years ago I took two sand blasted panels I shot primer on them and then I shot sealer on one of them and left them outside . After about a year the one that only had primer on had surface rust on it, the one that I put sealer on had no rust. Frank
     
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  12. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Hello Frank you're right happiness is cold LZ. Do you remember what sealer you used on that panel
     
  13. If you don't have a compressor be advised you can apply epoxy primer with a brush or roller. At least you'll be using better quality paint this way while waiting for the full monty.
    Happiness is a cold LZ, truer words were never spoken. 11B.
     
    31Apickup likes this.
  14. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    At the time I did that test I was using PPG products. This was on the the door of our Chopper and this is the road we patrolled in a Jeep C7AD598C-930F-4A87-A179-957199F0ECAC.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

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  15. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Thank you Frank.Oh To be young again. PPG makes some fine products. That Jeep in the picture is from the 101 st. Did you guys steal one of our jeeps? I would be very disappointed if you did. When I left there they told me if I reenlisted they would teach me how to jump back in. I declined
     
  16. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

  17. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,919

    squirrel
    Member

    where are you working on the car? Does it stay inside? Does it stay outside? What is your location...are you in a humid area? (there's a place on your HAMB profile to put your location).

    Answers to these questions would affect my advice to you.
     
    Unique Rustorations likes this.
  18. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,038

    gene-koning
    Member

    The next question is how long will it be between the application of the Rustoleum primer and the application of the epoxy primer?
    If the Rustoleum primer has been there for a while (over 6 months), there may not be a problem, but epoxy primer is best put over bare metal. Gene
     
  19. Los_Control
    Joined: Oct 7, 2016
    Posts: 1,125

    Los_Control
    Member
    from TX

    I'm just a noob also to automotive paint. So I love to read these threads.
    What I did not hear, what is the actual paint going to be in the end?
    In my case, I am using rustoleum gloss black from tractor supply ... rustoleum primer works perfect for me.
    I just think it is important to know whats going on top, before suggesting what to put on the bottom.

    With that said, I have read in this forum to use cheap rattle can paint to protect bare metal.
    Would the paint have same adverse effect as primer, when epoxy applied?

    What about sealer instead of primer? Pretty sure they offer it in a rattle can, or could mix small batches to spray, pita to clean the gun.
    I understand that just about any paint products will work on top of it. Eventually seal the whole car and then epoxy primer on top of it?

    Thats my question to the big boys. Would a sealer be a better choice for @Bewarethebob ?
     
  20. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,364

    31Apickup
    Member

    As 30tudor mentioned you can put epoxy on with a brush or roller. At least you’d be using the correct material and wouldn’t have to clean a spray gun to coat a small area as you go.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  21. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Epoxy first sealer does two things it seals the substrate and gives you a more uniform color to paint over. A lot of the colors are semitransparent. If you wand a hark red, spray it over a black sealer . If you are after a bright red spray it over a white sealer. Thats why some paint jobs dont match because the base are different colors/ also the Rustoleum is a oil base paint And it doesn’t work well with other brands. If you a primer be sure its Direct To Metal, the ones that are not will peal off bare metal. My suggestion is pick one brand and stick with it all the way they.you can use one the off brands made by PPG which is Omni and DuPont has Nason. But they dont have the color selection. I shot DuPont , PPG, Sherwin-Williams , Akzo Nobel , Sickens , I love Glasurit , but my go has been PPG.
     
    Torchie likes this.
  22. woodsnwater
    Joined: Apr 4, 2016
    Posts: 502

    woodsnwater
    Member
    from North Al.

  23. unfinished
    Joined: Jan 8, 2020
    Posts: 119

    unfinished
    Member

    Please wear a charcoal filter mask if you are using catalyzed materials of any kind.
     
  24. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    I use a fresh air hood. You can get Isosinate poisoning from your eyes skin and the bad part it’s cumulative and your body never gets rid of it. When you get scentcised to it it creates breathing problemsAnd you can’t get your breath, after that all you have to is get a whiff of it and you are down on the floor gasping for breath. I seen it happen to several painters and they can’t work any more. Safety First
     
  25. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    In regard to the question of keeping metal from rusting until you get to with primer and paint I never hear metal prep mentioned on any of these threads. A quality prep which is phosphoric acid-based will keep metal from rusting in doors for year. I can't see the sense of putting spray bomb or rust oleum over the metal then having to remove it all to paint it properly, its just extra work.

    Sherman Williams and PPG recommend a phosphate treatment to the substrate before priming. Using and etch adds increased corrosion protection. Every automotive manufacturer in the world phosphates the bodies before the e coated and painted. I have the results of the 30 days salt fog test, I'll post it tomorrow when the videos completed
     
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  26. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    They is a alcohol base metal prep for use on light surface rust that would be easier too use
     
  27. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

  28. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    All the panels in the test were hit with 80 grit. Each panel had three coats except for the fluid film.
     
  29. My supplier sells epoxy and dtm primer, and urethane sealer in large spray bombs for jobs like that.
     
  30. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    If any of you would like me to test products you like feel free to send me a small panel and I will put it in the tank. PM me for an address.
     

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