Technical Symptoms of bad distributor?

I have a relatively new to me 40 Ford with a 53 Merc. It’s got 3 97 Stombergs, Isky cam and Navarro heads and intake. The distributor is a Joe Hunt mag look-a-like.
I’ve spent the weekend getting to know the car.
The first thing I did was hookup a Snapon timing light. It worked fine for the first few minutes and then would go off for 30-60 seconds and then come back on, then go off. Very erratic. I then hooked up my Innovate timing light and it does the same thing.
The engine also has a very slight erratic miss that I can’t adjust out even with syncing and adjusting the mixture on the carbs. I also changed out the plugs with new NGK B4Ls.
Are these symptoms of a bad distributor?
I did a search on here and found lots of threads, both good and bad, about the Joe Hunt distributors.
Think it’s time to go Mallory Unilite?
Thanks
Norris

 

They fail a lot by what I’ve read in any application not just the flathead. Install a different distributor that you know works and see. Good luck.

 

Is the timing light not working a symptom of a failing distributor? Or could it be something else?
I know the two timing lights are good......just tried them on another car.....both worked perfectly as usual.
I’ll have to order and setup a new distributor.

 

Very nice looking engine. Is there a gap on that pickup?

 

Pertronix recommends not using solid core copper wires with their electronics. Don't know about the Hunt stuff. Any idea if the wires are solid core or suppression under the cloth?

 

Those look-a-like fake mag distributors seem to be nothing but trouble. Never heard a good report. Just problems sooner or later.
Best rid of it.

 

There’s a .010 gap on the pickup. Any idea what it should be?
I’ll check the wires because I’m not sure.....hadn’t thought of that.....thanks

 

The timing light will only flash when the current can actually complete its path to ground. If the light is on cylinder one and it has a misfire the light will not strobe.

 

Do you have access to a scope ?
Easiest way to pin point distributor issues

I’ve used a timing light in the past on 4 banger engines to find troubled cylinders, seems a little drawn out in a v8 but can be done.

 

Why note use a single points distributor and if you want more zap, put a hidden CD box.. That's a very strong and well running ignition system..

 

I know you time the ignition on number one cylinder spark plug.
I'd be interested to hear if the timing light would strobe if it was attached to a different spark plug. Just wondering if number one is the misfire and hence the strobe going black.
Could be a bad plug wire or distributor cap or something else.
Just a thought.
Phil

 

You know, there was someone else on here recently who had that trouble with the light and it was the number 1 plug wire gone bad.

 

I agree with pprather.
I'd be checking for cross-firing or shorts to ground at the spark plug wires before I bought another distributor. Run it in the dark. Look for sparks.

 

I don’t have access to a scope.
Great idea. I’ll fire it up tonight in the dark.....see if there are any “fireworks”
I also have a simple tool to checked the strength of the spark on a plug wire. I forgot about it.
I’ll also check the connection on the distributor cap....it kinda clamps the wire in there.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

 

Right from the Joe Hunt website:

Note: - Ballast must be mounted so that air can circulate around it due to high operating temperatures. This also means that the ballast must be mounted to a metal surface, not plastic, fiber glass etc.- Carbon, or resistor core wires must be used. Stainless, solid, or wire core wires will interfere with the module. - Do not leave ignition switch on without the car running for an extended period of time. This will cause premature failure of the module due to overheating.

 

I just now pulled #1 plug and cleaned the excessive anti seize off of the threads then reinstalled. Guess it wasn’t making a good ground in the head?
No more erratic misfire! Timing light now works!
And, I’ve got to order some resistor core wires.....mine are copper core...thanks Black Fifty.

Thanks to all who pointed me the right direction! Such a simple fix, but I couldn’t get a hold of it without y’all’s help.

I have a Mallory Unilite in my Summit cart.....may wait now to pull the trigger....may not.
I like the looks of the magneto, but it is fake....and I’ve got a “thing” about fake.
Hope I can find some cool cloth covered resistor core wires! I really like the way my current copper cores look.
Are these the wires I need? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIppyV2qyI7AIVDr7ACh3U5AWNEAQYAyABEgKxifD_BwE
Y’all enjoy your weekend.
Norris

 

You might look here for plug wires.

https://www.thehotrodcompany.com/pr...h-braided-wire/cloth-braided-spark-plug-wire/

 

Brillman have suppression core cable that looks the same.
https://brillman.com/product/7-8mm-cotton-braid-spark-plug-wire/

 

Thanks Prather and X38!

 

Like any electronic distributor, you are relying on a sealed module to do the switching, and it is a non-serviceable part.
If you are going to run one, grab a spare module and leave it in the trunk. Takes about 3 minutes to change.

 

Anitseize on the plug should not be an issue, I've used it for years on Al heads. I think what you did when you pulled the plug wire was remove some corrosion on the inside of the metal wrap or plug itself. Easy to check and correct. Other thing it may have been you have a bad plug wire near the end, and you now have more contact with it, after pulling and reinstalling it.

One thing I am quite sure of, it wasn't the AS unless it was slathered on the electrode (area).

 

I’ll certainly take your advice 36roadster.....thanks

and Budget36, I’m sure your correct......I imagine the plug wire wasn’t on the plug completely or wasn’t seated well in the dizzy cap. I don’t think the a.s. could keep the plug from grounding well either, however, thru the years I have heard that before.....thanks

 

If plug threads need lube I would prefer dielectric grease rather than antisieze since you have iron heads.
Phil

 

The wire set you showed from Summit should work and already have the right angle spark plug connectors installed.

Here is a good crimper for installing the distributor contacts to the wires.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-3503

I've used a channel lock to squeeze the crimp right at the distributor. No need to remove wire and put crimper in a vice.
Phil

 

Phil, I have aluminum Navarros.
Thanks for the link....I did see those at Summit. My concern with those is the diameter being 7.8mm instead of 7mm.....wonder if they’ll fit through the looms. Gonna breakout the calipers right now.


My current copper cores are 7mm but I believe the 7.8s will go thru the looms....it’ll be tight but I think I’ll try it. You’re right....it would be a quick easy install. I already have the MSD crimped.
Thanks again.

 

Interesting what the Joe Hunt instructions say about Ballasts resistor mounting or about the use of them at all. Pertronix style always make in an option and HEI’s never mention them in fact won’t work well at all on lower voltages.
None of the guys complaining about failures I’ve ever read talked about them or wires either. I know my hopped up DUI wants an alternator at 14volts for better performance and resistance wire.

 

My Powermaster alternator is set at 14.7 volts. I’m pretty sure that’s not at idle(650rpm) though. I’ll check that also.

yep:

 

Glad it was simple.

 

Here's 7mm with right angle plug boots. Choose color.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Taylor-Spiro-Pro-Cloth-Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-90-Degree,331769.html

Phil

 

Ordered! Thanks again Phil