I have a Chassis Eng parallel leave spring set up with a Ford 9” in my 1939 Ford chassis. Heidts/Chassis Eng states they settle an inch over time. For those of you with a similar setup, how much vertical travel are you seeing after break in? Trying to figure out if I need some axle snubbers. Thanks Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
I have the same set-up on my 1946 Ford Woodie and it didn't settle an inch. I also don't come close to the stock to the stock axle snubbers. It looks like you have several inches between the rear and your chassis, so if it was me I wouldn't worry about snubbers. Nice chassis work, I like the master cylinder push rod.
Thanks, because I am using rear discs, there is an e-brake cable bracket about 3-1/4” from the bottom of the chassis. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I had to use 2 inch lowering blocks on top of the CE spring setup in my 40 Std coupe to get it to sit right. Hasn't bottomed out yet.
I'd be more concerned with the proximity of that brake line to your exhaust pipe. I used CE parallel leafs, ran them inboard of the frame to make it sit lower without blocks and definitely installed bump stops. I think all cars should be built with them though.
Thanks - actually there is 1/4-1/2” air gap between the brake line and the wrapped exhaust. It’s a bad angle. Also, the boiling point of brake fluid is around 450 deg. It’s less than 200 deg at the end of the pipe. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I did the same on my 37 Fordor. Initially, I used big lowering blocks, probably 2" perhaps more. One of them was the kind that allows for adjusting axle lead, like oval trackers used, so you can also easily adjust your wheel base side-to-side if it is off a little. Eventually, my springs settled so much I had to take the blocks out as the springs took on a reversed arch. Still worked. I used a snubber from a 40 Ford from the start (with the tip cut off to yield 3" static clearance to the top of the axle tube. After the axle sagged, and I took the lowering blocks out, and the clearance was back to the same 3" I started with. You may be lucky and have a spring of another mfg, and it may not sag. But lots of others have had that problem so don't be surprised if it sags after a year or so.
The 1 inch drop thing is just a rule of thumb and can be influenced by many other factors including length of main leaf and so on. Nice looking chassis it is a credit to you. I am sure you will enjoy many happy miles with it.
I think I get about 5" of total travel, using the CE shock cross member in my 49 Chevy wagon. About 3" of bump and 2" of droop. The shock will limit droop.
You can't leave a half inch air gap between brake line and exhaust. Even if the exhaust is wrapped. That's nuts! And, if you aren't close to the snubbers, the 40's gonna look like an off roader. I recommend using 48 Ford rear axle bumpers as they are soft, but will bolt into the original spot. And make sure everything is out of the way. Raise that exhaust, move the brake line, and anything else that might be too close for comfort.
CE leafs with one inch Blocks in my 40, if it settled an inch I didn’t notice it. Of course it has been a while. I use the absorbing snubbers that Eaton spring sells. Nice work on your chassis, exhaust is going to be loud isn’t it?
I'd be far more concerned about how fast the heat is going to deteriorate the rubber/plastic inside those braided stainless steel hoses then what it will do with the brake fluid. I like to be able to at minimum, stick my fingers between the exhaust, and anything else it comes close to it (about 3/4"). Gene
The Jalopy Journal
