New guy but long time stalker. I have been restoring old cars all my life but it has been back to origingal stuff. I bought a 1940 Ford Deluxe Coupe that I'm hot rodding ground up. Bought a speedway chassis that is going together very well. Putting a 1950 8CM Merc motor that I built and I rebuilt a T5 tranny out of a 1988 S10. Hydraulic clutch. The chassis came with the under floor brake pedal and fits well. There is no room for a clutch pedal as the pivot point makes the pedal arm hit the tubular chassis. I am looking for ideas. Not a lot of room for the pedal under the dash though I am considering ideas to fit a pedal under there. View attachment 4822541
I'm in the process doing the same thing on my 36. I think the only easy option is to buy the manual brake any hydraulic pedal assembly from Pet and Jake, which I did this week. They claim the manual brake will work better than power ... which I really don't believe. If I don't like it, I will buy a Hydro-boost adapter to run in place of a vacuum assist. It runs off the power steering pump and should fit in front of the master cylinder.
Falcon. I don’t know about Pete & Jakes pedal assembly but if the pedal ratio is in the 6-1 range and you use 4 piston Wilwood type calipers they will be like power if you use a 7/8” or 3/4” master cylinder. The 3/4“ may need a little more movement but not much pressure.
Ok.... never considered that. I always use the GM metric caliper.... is there really a big difference ? Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So I’ve searched and searched. I think what it comes down to is I can fit the manual brake clutch assembly but there is no room for the clutch pedal swing. It will hit the front of the frametube. I’m thinking about either under dash 90 kits (don’t think those fit either) or probably convert this pedal to clutch master. I was hoping to not have anything on fire wall but I can’t find a 180 clutch mount that keeps the look of the 40 pedals Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Worked for me to not have a vacuum can on the firewall. Think about 4 pistons squeezing on a disc instead of one and a floater. There are even 6 available. The key is the pedal ratio. Looking at the photo of the hanging pedal it has at least 6-1 which will need very little pressure due to the mechanical advantage. If you had that with vacuum assist you could throw yourself thru the windshield with the wrong diameter MC. But would work great as none power with a smaller MC diameter. Your thoughts of a remote vacuum assist like the Bendix of the mid 50’s is also a good idea. Prestige Thunderbird in Santa Fe Springs Ca. uses a 4 piston Mustang caliper with a Bendix style unit for the front only with very good results. Good luck.
Ok... great to think about. Wilwood makes a 2 piston caliper that replaces the GM metric. Is that a significantly better upgrade, or do you really need the 4 piston ?
Not sure how this is getting off track but I need a hydraulic clutch solution. I think I have come to the conclusion to use the hanging pedal, convert it to use with a clutch master cylinder and have the one hole in the new firewall for the reservoir. I will keep the brake like it is in pics with the booted master under the floor. Any ideas for reversing the clutch master to not have it poke thru the fire wall? There is no swing room for the clutch pedal arm with the tubular crossmember so i gve up on under the floor. The only away the clutch will go under my floor without major surgery to tubes is to mount both pedals on the inboard side of the side tubes. That aint happening. any pedal on the inboard side of thecrossmember tubes will hit on the top tube towards the front where it mounts to the frame.
Like I said for me I wanted better brakes and stopping for my 3500# 56 Ford without a power assist unit hanging on the firewall. My stock rear brakes were 1-3/4x11”; I went to 2-1/4x11” from a F-150. The combination gave me what I wanted without power assist.
Not sure how this is getting off track but I need a hydraulic clutch solution. .... It's not off track....we are talking how to do this without a power booster. I think you could modify your frame and use the Pete and Jake assembly rather than hang it off the firewall.... Do you really need a power booster ???
I’m looking hard at that top tube! Putting motor in to see what mods I can get away with on that top tube. I like that Pete and jakes. I have disc brakes all the way around. 11”. Single piston calipers. I thought manual brakes would be hard to push./stop. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ok I looked into the Pete and jakes and the Hydroboost. I agree with you guys. It should fit with little mod and both pedals on inside. I have the old frame so I’ll see if it keeps the pedals in right location on new frame. I’m slow witted so didn’t really get it at first. Thanks for patience. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you want to try a cable, I have one I'll send you. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I did. They recommended the TCI which is a major reconstruction of frame. Speedway is great for issues like this. They will take the parts back no problem even though its been 10 months. I never used just bought as a kit.
Im not sure what you are suggesting. I am open to any idea but Im committed to the hydraulic clutch. What is a cable master cylinder?
Its a late model Mustang clutch cable. There is a good tech article on here about adapting one. Takes less space at the pedal area. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It’s come down to there is no swing radius room inside the rails if I put any pedal on the frame side of the tube. Can’t think how cable will help. I did look at it. I went with Pete and Jake idea cuz it mounts both pedals inboard of tube so pedal can swing. Thanks for suggestion! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
"Not sure how this is getting off track but I need a hydraulic clutch solution." I'm also putting a FH with T5 and Hydraulic clutch in a 40 coupe. Had issue with clearance using the P&J set-up on a stock chassis. I went with a set-up from Engineered Components . My setup (disc front, drum rear)doesn't have the booster. The only problem I forsee is with split wishbones I'll have a tight squeeze for the exhaust to run along side the clutch reservoir.
When I went to a hydraulic clutch in my '40, I went through the same kind of search. I bought a set of the Pete & Jake pedals but didn't like both pedals being on the inside of the X-member. I wound up putting the assembly back in the box, made a 1/4" plate to mount the Wilwood master next to the brake master. The plate went between the stock pedal bracket and the master cylinder adapter that I used to put a Ford Granada master for the brakes. We then figured the appropriate length and position for an arm to be welded to the bottom of the stock clutch pedal. Next time I do this, however, I will plan a spacer to place the Wilwood back about 3/4" back further to allow me a little more wiggle room on the push rod. I had to shorten the push rod and slightly shorten the heim joint to get this all to work. This car had been on the road for over 20 years when I swapped out a th350 for a failed attempt to keep manual linkage in it with a 3 speed, then converted to hydraulic with a stock '40 column shifted Saginaw 4 speed.
Here’s what I ended up with. Both frame tubes had to be re-made to have space top to bottom to fit P&J assembly in. Had to add extension to master cylinder to move farther back. The exhaust routed next to transmission as the only way to make the tubing removeable to powder coat frame later. There are some tricky bends on drivers side to clear brake pedal. Its solid and clean looking. Moving forward. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Use 39 ford peddles , same frame as a 40 only with a floor shift . Just a bolt in swap if you run a v8 flat head, works easy on sbc but needs a little more riggin !!!
Just seen this thread so might be a bit late. Have a look at POST#66 onwards. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/under-floor-brake-pedal-instal.962054/
The Jalopy Journal
