Thanks a ton crazy Steve!! I was hoping it would be like that guess I read some things an misunderstood what I read that made my day thanks again crazy steve
Why does it look like there’s a big gap at the top of that retainer and a small gap at the bottom near the axle? Looks like the axle is laying on the retainer Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Update got the parts ordered for the 9inch the seals where just like crazy Steve said so be putting it back together tomorrow I was also curious is there a way to tell the difference between ford 9inch an ford 9 3/8?
Mine looks like a the 9 3/8 but it doesn’t have the little loop at the top an it kinda looks more like a 9inch only it has 2 ribs lol
Hello Marty it looks like a war case? As in it looks like it’s been through war? Lol or is that a name for another type of rearend case?
The ford vin plate list the rear axle as axle code 01 wich lists as a ford 9inch there are only a few numbers on the front of the case 92N 82. Wat then on the ID tag all it has is 3.70 wich doesn’t seem right either cause at 65mph your every bit of 3000rpm with stock height tires
WAR is part of the casting #, used in the early 9", '57-'60ish. If it's in a '59 F100, it's probably the original center.
I get the war name now to bad I have to pull the center out to check it lol think I’ll just put the seals in it an call it good I’m almost positive it’s a 9inch I was just confused about the 9 3/8 and was hoping it wasn’t a 9 3/8 wich I’m pretty positive now it’s not
There are 2 types of bearings for the 9" axle... tapered and ball. You have the tapered. The ball bearing type is a sealed bearing and does not require the inner seal but does use the gasket on the retainer. The bearing you have does require the inner seal and the bearing must be packed with grease. It does not use rear end lube. It also requires the gasket. Look at any Ford parts book or service manual and it will show exactly what I am telling you. When I worked at Ford dealers I sold a lot of axle bearings and know what combinations work. You can use either type...... you just have to do it right.
Both types need the inner seal. If it's missing or bad, gear oil can slosh into the axle tube during cornering or on inclines and get trapped in the bearing recess, at which point it will leak out onto the brake drum. Supposedly the axle flange gasket is supposed to prevent this, but those are usually missing or damaged. If the seal is installed and good, the gasket doesn't matter. I've never seen a Ford 9" housing that wasn't machined for the seal and/or that didn't have one.
Ok here is one for you. I have brand new dutchman axles and I have gone through four inner seals on the right side only. Part number from NAPA of 15142 which is an SKF brand seal. It is a big bearing sealed. The rear end housing was narrowed with a bar jig so the bearing cups were welded correctly and true. I do not have a gasket between the backing plate and bearing flange. I am getting gear oil coming through the bearing and then onto the backing plate inner running down to the drum. Again this is only the right side. I did make sure my factory vent on the left side was clean and I installed a vent on the right side as well. So what is next to stop it leaking?
I may be terribly terribly wrong but there is a lot of bad info being passed on to everyone in this post . The taper roller bearing does NOT use the inner seal because the roller bearings are lubed from the gear oil in the housing . Your seal is bad and the only way to replace the seal is press off the bearing and retainer . The ball style bearing has a seal in the housing , because the ball bearing is a sealed bearing and requires no lube to function as designed . The roller bearings are mostly used in the F150 series truck. The gasket between the retainer and backing is for nothing more than a dust seal nothing to do with seal oil . Most never had one or are gone by now , if you toss it , the rear end will function and if you are getting oil here you need new seals . Just remember no inside the housing seal with the roller bearing . I hated the rollers because if you changed out a gear set , then bearings must come off to replace the axle seal . I had 70 Cobra 429 SCJ , with sealed ball bearing axles , they will take all the abuse you can give it , taper rollers are for trucks , to carry weight .
Dave is right on the money. I have tapered bearings in my car. Lubes from gear oil. Seals to housing and axle from same conical looking seal. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
In the past I have stacked 2 seals on the same side. I don't why there was room for both but there was. Maybe some seals are narrower than others.
For those looking for 9 inch axle flange gaskets, they seem to be readily available. A little research got this info: Fel-pro 55035 for small bearing rear Fel-pro 55036 for early big bearing flange with half inch bolts Fel-pro 55080 for early big bearing flange with 3/8 inch bolts I didn't research the Torino (late) style large flange axles. Phil
I finally solved the leaking. Here is what I did. replaced the axle seal again and this time checked the level to make sure it was just below the fill hole about the width of the first bend of your pinky finger. now I have no leaks anymore. Someone else did suggested it might have been overfull as when I filled it I kept going until it ran out of the fill hole. Hope that helps.
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