View attachment 4821942 Hello, I am new to this forum hopefully this is the correct area. I just purchased a 1938 ford truck. The sheet metal is in excellent shape, but at some point in its life a Plymouth Valiant frame was used to replace the original along with a 318 engine. Those are not in great shape and I will be replacing the frame and running gear. For the frame, who have you used and any thing I should watch out for. For the engine I am looking at 3 choices a Flathead V8, Ford 302 or possibly a Cummings R2.8l turbo diesel. I like the Flathead with dual carbs and aluminum heads. I am just not familiar with them or their reliability for driving distances. i would like to be able to drive to car shows within say 4 hours and Arizona heat that can be 100+. The Flathead or 302 will have a Tremec T5. Thanks Dennis View attachment 4821934 View attachment 4821939 View attachment 4821935 View attachment 4821936 View attachment 4821937 View attachment 4821938
Welcome to da H.A.M.B. Ya got a great start - Bubba luvs twucks As far as the frame front from what little me knows it was a popular graft - ask specific questions and pictures are always appreciated - remember the only stupid question is the one ya don't ask Enjoy Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That body deserves an original Ford Frame. They are easier to find if you look. You may have to travel but plenty of folks have drank the Kool Aid of modern frame swaps thus leaving many good frames and parts; sometimes restored, available. Plus there are many old practically abandoned trucks that can provide a good frame. As in any project before you do anything, make sure the title and registration is in order!
It may have a valiant suspension grafted on but Valiants were never full framed cars, all unibody. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I It's on some kind of non original frame. The stance is not right. The wheel location is not right. It has that heavy rear bumper. Lastly you can see the shackle of semi elliptical parallel springs. To be right, it needs to be on a original type chassis even if IFS is used. If it's registered tagged and drivable, a very good option in my opinion is to drive the truck as is. While you are enjoying the truck, build a correct chassis for it with the running gear of your choice. When you have the renewed Ford chassis done, make the swap.
You can use a 35-40 Ford passenger car and pickup frame and a 41 pickup frame under your 38. They are the same perimeter frame. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's probably best to not talk about a diesel swap on here unless you want to get booted. I love 38/39 Ford trucks. Find an original frame and run a souped up flattie.
Picked up a 49-53 Mercury Flathead to use in the truck. Not exactly sure on the exact year yet. He said a 49, but it has EAC Mercury heads on it. I also got from the same person a set of Edmund's Custom heads and Edmund's Custom dual intake. The intake needs some repair but I feel worth it. It will not look perfect, but is is pretty old.
That's a great score - love the sound of a flattie - keep going forward - post a pic Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
It looks like somebody swapped the front suspension onto an original frame along with an open drive rear end and parallel leaf springs. My '38 is sitting on its original frame and stock beam axle and transverse spring up front, '74 Camaro 10 bolt rear is hung on parallel leaves and spring hangers off an '80 Isuzu pickup. 307 Chevy and T-5 from and S-10. If you're not on the original frame, you may have some issues with registration because the only places you'll find the truck's serial number is on top of the left frame rail in 3 places--beside the steering box, about where the back of the cab is, and on the arch over the rear end--and on the bell of the original transmission case. It's not on the body anywhere. I've owned my '38 since 1966. E-mail me if I can help you with anything [email protected]
If you’re up for a drive to Ca, I have a bare frame from a 36 pickup. You can have it, it’s on the bottom of a small pile on a flatbed I have out back. It’s just the frame, but might give you a start to get that flatty looking right in there
Yes, there was another front end scabbed on at done point. Not a very good job. My cab has an AZ ID tag on it in the drivers door area. It is what matches the title. It was titled to that when I bought it and they had no problem titling it for me using that. I will probably have questions as I build it. The engine area has been modified along with the firewall. I want to get it back close to what it looked like. But it is still a bit rod. My goal is to have it look like an original truck on the outside with some modern convenience, good brakes better suspension etc.
I am still figuring out what way I want to go. This is my first true restoration from frame up. I appreciate the offer I will give it some thought.
IWANNAFLATIE has a frame thats available ,close to you also. theres a thread going about it . i dont know how to share the link
I'm in the NE corner of Chandler and have 2 of those cabs and a few parts and drove a 38 Ford truck as my daily for some 20 years. Gone now, but have some experience and can help. Reach out, we are all here to help.
Thanks! I have been looking to get the rest of the parts I need. Have gotten a few off here. On mine someone cut the dash up pretty bad. I am also missing the windshield garnish.
I guess my issue with an old frame is the unknown. How do you know if it has been wrecked and is still straight? I don't have the equipment to straighten a frame and do not want to have to start messing it up to get the body to fit. I do not want the original suspension, I want a better ride and handling. I did find a place that sells the boxing plates for boxing in the frame. Modifying an old frame does look good from a cost perspective. I think I try to look at it from a labor time vs cost. I know there are purists out there and I respect that. Maybe looking for pro vs con on new vs old.
I am curious about the front end that is under it. Do you know what it came out of? Could you take some pictures of the front suspension. If it is a good design and works well but somebody just did a crappy installation, I can take care of installing it right if it's something that adapts easily, has rack and pinion, everything attaches to a single crossmember that unbolts from the donor car, etc. You can e-mail me [email protected] Lamar Wadsworth Rockmart GA
I was told by previous owner it was from a Plymouth Valiant. They also put in a torsion bar setup. I haven't gotten under it enough yet to see how bad it is. I won't be using this frame as they also welded on spring shackles to the outside of the frame. I have no desire to spend time grinding off welds. An original frame is not a bad idea I just don't have the knowledge of what needs to be boxed in or does it? I want a better suspension than original. Cost to do that is ~$3000 - $4000 based on what I have seen so far. Or, do I save time and get a ready made frame from TCI, Fatman or ?? Again my goal is to have it look original with a better ride.
What a scabbed up mess! I didn't read above, is your truck titled to that frame? Personally I don't mind a challenge but that is gross. I'd be considering a replacement but he title question is rather important.
The frame has no numbers on it. Some previous owner had an Arizona vehicle assigned identification number done. So the cab now has this Arizona assigned vehicle ID tag attached to it with the VIN that it was given. Not sure how that works but the motor vehicle department had no issue with it and it is titled now in my name with the assigned ID. Yes, the frame is a mess. They did just about as bad with the spring shackles. and can't see how they put in the torsion bar brace. When I purchased I was only buying for the body and assumed from the start the frame was toast.
That makes your life easier I suppose. Find a new frame. Like someone said above 35-40 cars and 35 to 41 trucks all take the same base. It sure will make a better/safer vehicle and you won't be ashamed if someone peaks underneath. Here is one I found in our classifieds in CA for $500
You don’t need to box a stock frame for a 38, perfectly fine as is. The frame you have definitely needs to go. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What’s the purpose of the truck? Have you ever ridden in a maintained 35-41 Ford PU? Least expensive way to go is with original suspension. Now if you want it to ride like a 2020 Ford PU, it’s just not going to happen , even with an after market frame.
I live in the Phoenix area that has a 70+ mile across distance and car shows all over. So a 140 mile trip would be something I want and maybe farther. Obviously it will not ride like a 2020 Ford, I would not know anyway as I don't have anything that new. I have done several 60's and early 70's cars and trucks and have upgraded there suspensions and brakes and been happy with the results over original.
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