Projects Project 1946 Ford Tudor

What motor mounts did you use? Love the build. I’m getting ready to start mine here soon.

 

Really enjoying following along on your build-thanks for sharing your journey with us.
Nice Job too BTW!

 

thanks for the e-brake pic definitely helps out

 

Just wanted to add, that I sort of copied your modifications to the X-member and transmission mount for the installation of 700R4 in my 47 coupe. Slight changes, due to what steel I had available, and the fact that body is still on frame, and I was doing the cuts and welding from my creeper.

 

The motor mounts, wishbone split kit, and rear leaf springs came from this company. I bought them, or rather paid for them, at the Turlock Swap Meet (California) a few years ago.

 

Glad to see that some of this stuff is useful. It always helps to see how someone else does it and if it works or not. I know I borrow and adapt ideas I see in other threads.

 

Today wasn't too intense. I got the Lokar bracket in for the throttle cable so I played around getting that mounted up and trying to see where the best place was to run the cable through the firewall.

 

Here is a little better picture of the brake pedal assembly routed around the steering column. I got the parts back from powder. $40 for both and turned around in a day or so. Mark at Crown Powder Coating in Hughson has handled most of my stuff lately. If its black I can usually get it back within the same week so thats pretty cool. He did a set of off white wheels for a buddies Model A project and they came out excellent as well.

 

keep at it ! it's going to be fun !

 

Spent a little time cleaning paint out of threads on the engine block and bolting on the wire separators. Theres one behind the head, 2 on the side of the block, and 2 on the oil pan bolts. They should tuck the wires nicely under the manifolds and clean up the wiring once I get to that point. Little concerned they are tight for the size plug wire I bought but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

 

And finally, a little more dress up. I bought a Summit brand finned air cleaner to match the valve covers. The all thread is too short to reach lid so I'll have to buy a longer piece, but thats relatively easy to fix.

 

One thing I need to work on is finding the plastic (or brass if I can) bushings that hold the pedal assembly to the mount. Mine got a bit warm under the torch and melted out... not sure where to start besides Google.

 

Also, I don't think I gave a shout out to Robert the 9 inch guy. Yeah, yeah thats how I saved it in my phone. Don't know if its true but I do know he does good work on Ford rear ends. I dropped my housing off with him in Visalia and he made quick work of the alterations.




He cut and welded it back together, straightened the tubes. Also, he helped out providing the exact length I needed for the new axles. $200 to clean up the housing. If anyone needs his number, I'd recommend him and pass it along.

 

Hey, while you're fitting the throttle cable, you should do the TV cable for the 700R4. All in the same area on the intake and carb.

 

Trans is actually a 4L60E so its all electronic with a stand alone computer. Ill have to route the cables through the floorboard and probably mount the computer under the front seat. I got the computer a few years ago from a company I believe is called Bowman Electronics. After that, I will need to find someone way smarter than me to program shift points and lock up.

 

That's the good way around the TV cable issues. Should be able to fine tune your combo.

 

Played around this morning with the Limeworks kit for the shifter. Everything seems to fit fairly well and slid into place.



Still need to get final fitment adjusted and then tighten down the set screws. The shift rod ended up being a bit long so Tracy cut it down and retreathed it.

 

Got the column drop fitted. It needed a little love with the belt sander to get a good fit to the column but seems like it will work okay now.

 

One more pic of the shift arm on the trans. I tried it a couple different ways before I found one that didn't hit while shifting gears. Seems to work okay in this position.

 

Pulled the column out 1 more time to set the final position of all the rotating parts. The tube got a 1/8th hole drilled for the set screw to drop into the column. Little locktite and its done for now.

 

Got the brass bushings for the pedal assembly. The bushing ended up being a 1/2 inch center hole so I bought a bigger bolt and hogged out the mount to get a good fit. Little axle grease on the bolt and a new lock nut finished it off.

 

Quick coat of black paint on the steering box and it should be all set to go together for the last time next week.

 

Not the most productive day.... but it still answered some questions. This kit from POL came with the small booster, m/c, and porportioning valve and the brake pedal firewall assembly. 1 size fits most.

My issue is the portportioning valve. The brake line ports are all kinda goofy sizes. I could probably make my 3/16 line fit but I think it would be quite a few fittings and couplers. Its not a show car but I also don't want it looking too janky. Plus each spot is another area where it can leak.



Tried to fit a line and all it wants to do is smash the inside bevel instead of fitting over it. Almost like the metal is too soft. Plus all the line sizes are "almost" sizes. Like when you have a cheap set of wrenches and they "almost" fit a 1/2 inch or 5/8 bolt.

I'm gonna ditch that P/V and have already ordered a Wilwood adjustable. I've used it in the past on a disc brake conversion on my 64 F100 and it worked perfectly.

 

Also, the deeper I get in to this build, the more I am questioning my discount wiring harness. I have read quite a few reviews and most end users do not seemed impressed. I'm starting to think it may be worth the investment in a better quality brand name kit.

I bought this one a few years ago. At the time, I knew I would need a harness and it was on my list of parts I would need one day. I came across this kit from a wholesaler guy and it was cheap... at the time I thought wires are wires. Now, after this much work, I want wires that aren't going to have me pulling my hair out on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere.

Thoughts, concerns, suggestions? Anyone familiar with KEEP IT CLEAN?

 

I know internet opinions of products are sketchy anyways, who knows if the user installed correctly or has other gremlins not worked out.... lots of variables.

Inspecting this kit I dont see anything alarming but I also don't know what I should be looking at. The connections seem solid, the wires are labeled every foot or so, it has a nice cover for the fuses.... but that doesn't mean much I guess. Wire length is pretty close to 9 feet.

I may be overthinking it but if anyone has any tips or tricks, let me know.

 

We used a P-valve that looks similar to yours, and were able to source fittings that fit directly in valve, and M/C, using 3/16 line. No adapters required. Even blocked one of the openings, so that we could run one line to front brakes, just teeing off where necessary to go to the other front caliper. Just took bit of digging. I agree, the less joints, the less chance of leaking.

 

It's a Hoffman brand.

 

I went with American Autowire Wire on my '40. very good quality.

 

Took a few days extra with COVID but its here and I think its gonna solve some problems.

 

Pictures loaded funny but.... got the new parts on, added some more brass connectors, and finished the hard lines.

That green finish is pretty ugly.