Although I wanted to run an AC condenser under my fuel tank and a trunk mounted compressor (with 12V DC motor) I am now considering a standard set up with the compressor engine mounted, the condenser in front of the radiator. However, I'd like to gain some more knowledge of the AC lines. I know I can run soft lines all the way to the trunk mounted Vintage Air unit, I am seeking knowledge of connecting the soft line to hard lines, then back to soft lines. I think I'd like to run, and bend hard lines under the chassis, and connect them at each end with soft lines. What kind of tubing, flaring, fittings,etc. am I looking for. I like the look of hard lines better than the soft and with some creative bends the job should look professional. I can bend tubing but not sure of the flaring-connecting, etc. I'm installing AC in my '37 Lasalle Opera coupe and want the AC unit itself in the trunk with ducts to the rear 'opera seat' area. The unrestored vehicle shown is mine, the other an example of a finished car. Mine has a 500" Cadillac but will look stock on the outside.
No problem connecting hard lines and ‘soft’ lines. There are several types of flexible lines. Browse through the online Vintage Air catalog and you’ll see several. Some are easier to do at home than others. I’ve only tried the EZ-clip type - it’s simple to do by yourself. Try to keep the number of connections to a minimum to reduce chances for leaks.
Cruz thru their selection... and brush up on your silver soldering! https://www.vintageair.com/hose-kit...el Line Kits&subcat2=Stainless Hardline Parts
I used aeroquip hose [AC SS braided] and fittings, hard line from vintage air, pics are best I have at the moment. Not cheap about $500.00 back in '2000. I was able to tig weld the .030 wall alum hard line to the flare [an] male spuds.
I have installed lots of A/C components in light aircraft and small jets, (same stuff as auto) and the instructions with the kit (all aircraft systems must be FAA approved with an STC, no home made stuff). Most used standard AN lines and fittings, Just use the correct size lines. The big problem is condensation and all lines must have foam insulation, it also helps on long runs. They do make conical washers of soft copper to help seal fittings. They usually always worked well. We usually pressurized the system with 350 psi of nitrogen, make finding leaks easy.
Actually Vintage Air owner Jack Chisenhall used to be a good race track friend of mine when I published the Indianapolis 500 yearbook and he just wrote me and wants to give me a hand in my AC installation. So thanks to all for the help. I looked at the hard line part and now have some knowledge.
I don't have access to a TIG, used to do quite a bit when I worked in the Indy race car shops, so will have to improvise. I'd have to practice on aluminum, especially thin. I've done a bit of gas welding aluminum, and it is challenging. Great for body panels, doesn't get as brittle as TIG. Your clamps all look great, beautiful job. I didn't see all those clamps at Vintage air. I don't have access to a mill so looking at the market for clamps. But I have a band-saw, drill-press so can fab some stuff.
Why not run finned hard line, that way you will have additional cooling on the way up and on the way back...
Probably just me, but would prefer copper, the soft, thick stuff used for residential A/C. Easier to braze or silver solder, depending on the rod you select. Bends well too. A few ounces per for heavier, but who cares.
You can terminate all the hard line with brazed on fittings. Your choice of AN or auto/AC 45deg flares. I prefer the latter.
I was checking my 0T Suburban's starter today and it has rear air - you might look for one in a yard near you....or maybe a late 50's Mopar or 60's Mopar with rear air might help.
That's about what I thought. I haven't brazed copper, I've soft soldered it and imagine silver solder will work too. Will test. Thanks
I worked in Commercial Refrigeration for many years. We used to use 45% silver solder to solder stainless tubing and steel tubing to copper tubing. We used a white paste flux called Stay-Silv. You have to have everything cleaned very well. It should only take a smidgeon of solder, the length of the diameter of the tubing to make a solid joint. If done properly, you barely see any of the solder, as it all gets sucked into the joint. Be sure to use a good solvent like acetone to clean the flux off after welding or it will corrode/eat through the metals eventually.
You can buy aluminum hard line, and "aluminum braze" the proper ends on, as well. Doc's Blocks used to be the company to go to for the fittings, but I dont' think they are in business any more. I've done quite a few cars with aluminum hard lines, except for the jumpers to the engine.
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