Time to mount my 35 Ford wire wheels on 40 Ford drums. So I bought wire wheel spacer rings from Vern Tardel. I see that several vendors are selling a more fancy wire wheel spacer (Speedway part # 91065470) that sells for about the same price as the rings. The two parts appear to serve the same function. Any opinions on rings vs spacers?
I bought the kind that have the plate that fits around the studs. That way it stays in place when the wheel is being put on. It works fine on my 40 front hubs and 48 rear hubs.
Reading Tardel's instructions they want you to weld the rings to the wheels https://www.verntardel.com/store/p336/Wire_Wheel_Spacers.html
Thanks for the replies, guys. The rings are traditional and the spacer plates might be considered to be after market parts. The plates are easier to install (no welding). Think I'll stick with the Vern Tardle rings.
First use of 'rings' to seat V8 wire wheels on late drums were actually Model 'A' compression rings... (firsthand info from Al Marseline, 1924-0000)
I used this style. I have 40 hubs and Model A Spindles. Studs were long enough on the front, too short in the back. Put longer studs on the back.
If ya have access to a brake lathe or a big regular lathe you can turn those adapters off of the original steel Model A rear drums. I have store bought ones on my 31 coupe and another set my son in law cut on an old brake lathe. Both work great! Dave
The only rub I see with the Tardel Rings that you weld on is that all too many guys don't think about the need for spacers or rings until they already have the wheels painted or powder coated and have the tires mounted on them. Looking at and A drum cutting the drums probably wouldn't be a big deal if you had a pile of worn out used drums and a lathe and didn't have to pay someone to do it.
Mr48, I do have Model A drums around! Doesn't anyone that owns a stock A or previously stock A? By now 99.9% ofthe originals are junk. Dave
Keep in mind that the '35 wheels still may hit the balancing weights welded onto the drums, especially the rears. They did on mine. I knocked off the balancing weights and use balancing beads in the tires instead of the fugly clamp on weights. That way the wheel/tire/drum combo is balanced dynamically while driving. Andy
It was common for the 48 era (outtie) hubs and drums to have balance weights welded to the outside in the way of the rim's mounting lip. I cut mine off and haven't experienced any vibrations. The 40 era (innie) hubs and drums usually have the weights welded to the outer face where they won't be in the way.
I'm using both, I'm running 9" rear with 10" drums and have spacers to keep the Kelsey's hub from interfering with the drum. I use the Speedway centering plate on the spacer on the spacer... on the front I just use a narrow spacer to mount 16" Dodge Budd wheels to 9.25" Mustang II disks. I can take some pictures if needed
Running the Speedway "spacers" on my Model A with '35 wires and Lincoln brakes. Stock rearend. Didn't need new wheel studs or anything, it all just bolted up. It seems like it would be awfully easy for the uninitiated to weld those Tardel rings cockeyed on the wheel, which would be "interesting". At the end of the day, you just want to support the wheel so that when it's bolted up, the lug nuts aren't pulling the center of the wheel inwards; it rests evenly against the drum (or spacer) as Henry intended.
If using a 1959 Ford 9" rear with adaptor plates for the KH wheel bolt pattern are the spacer plates still required? I would think the adaptors would offset the wheel enough.
Take a look at the mounting surface of the wheel and you will see the higher level adjacent to the center hole. That’s where the support ring or spacer helps. So no, just an adapter on your 9” won’t be enough.
There are some bolt pattern adapters that do have the raised centers for the early Ford Wires. I have seen them but don't remember where. Sorry. Dave
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