Technical ***September 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Four Months of 2020 to go***

So, in order to make it a pushrod engine there are "tappet caps" installed on top of the lifters. Invariably every time I do this the oil in the cup on the topic cap pulls a cap off the top of a lifter even being careful. It adds extra work having to pull the side cover. It's the second one from the left that's dropped off.

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Carter P90091, 1 to 3 psi rotary electronic pump

 

I have a question. What are you guys using for tube shocks on your cars? I have a Friend who wants me to put tube shocks on all 4 corners of his 30 Sedan. The car is running fenders and has a 4" drop axle in the front and a modified spring in the back. The car is running juice brakes too. I know the Model A supply houses have kits but I imagine they wont work for this set up because of the lowering. I am mainly looking for a shock that is the right length and so on and I was going to fabricate brackets. Just looking for some ideas.

 

Hey John, a friend of mine used '50 (I think) Plymouth shocks on a '34 pickup with 4" drop.

 

28°/snow possible tonight, 99° on Saturday afternoon.
Might need to plumb a heater in my pickup...

 

That is just another way of making a pushrod motor.
I have found that using adjustable tappets, tossing the adjusters and replacing them with good bolts and a ball cut in the top work well. I have seen a few with socket head screws and pushrods running in the socket.
One advantage to this is shimming the screw heads up to get proper geometry on the rockers.

J

 

forecast 117° today, was 119° yesterday, air conditioning going into coupe

 

John,
You are spot on. I'm not going to pull the engine all the way apart just yet but when I do, the tappet caps are going away. I have adjustable lifters in another Miller OHV that the adjusting screw gets replaced with a socket head machine screw with a ball cut.. Yes, was able to address the rocker geometry better that way too. I had to cut shims to go under the rocker stands on this one along with using offset keepers on the valve springs to address the rocker geometry. It is the details that make things run and work so much better

 

That is just too darn hot!!

We are supposed to get that polar vortex too, but no snow, just rain. Sounds like you are going to have to chain up.

 

Checking in for september.

No major news regarding the progress on my B engine.
Just waiting for some parts for my oil pump and also placed an order for a new FSI distributor, went with a maximum advance of 20 degrees @ 2000 rpm. Hopefully that will work well with my Brierley head.

 

i alway's use the covered tube shock's in my eye the uncovered look to streetrod. how i find alota part's is go to your ebay and under part's section type in what your looking for most of the time there will be hundreds of listing's some with very good description's like extended length and closed length half that distance is your shock. it takes a while but it work's for me our local part's house's are of no help anymore

 

Pulling the mock-up motor to scavenge the crank and trans so I can build something run-able on another block.

Someday it might run.
.

 

Looks great from here, keep it up!!
Don't forget to post pictures.

J

 

Thanks for the advice. I figured that is what I will have to do to find the right shock for whatever hardware I end up building.

 

109* sunday but only 101* yesterday

 

im still running the shocks (with axle brackets) that were on before 4" drop .

 

As promised...be back to 80's by week end and no more mosquitos!

 

Crazy weather here, due to fires the smoke has limited the direct sunlight.
Temps yesterday down about 10 degrees from forecast, still about 98.

J

 

Yep We got snow in Cheyenne this morning too. Crazy fall weather. I am glad to see it because of the fires around.

 

I will just carry an extra fuel pump..... curious what the issue was. Only failure I get is if the cork gasket drys out and loses the seal.

 

I'd guess ethanol in the fuel affecting the diaphragm. At least that's what happened to mine. New ones should be ethanol proof.

 

Fuel pump update. First thanks for the replies.
I had to prime the pump and fill the carbs so maybe clogged line or vapor lock. The car is now parked in the side shed in time out until it decides to cooperate.

 

Today I finally received the gaskets and retaining spring for my oil pump.
So I went to work and got the pump and also the oil pan installed.
That rear cork part of the oil pan gasket was putting up a bit of a fight but finally I got it in place correctly.

Gonna do a final check of the valve clearence this weekend and install the valve cover.
Then I can start thinking about installing engine and trans in the chassis.

 

Banger garage. 9.9.2020

 

I love the Briggs Leatherback, but I am biased.

 

You’ll be extremely happy with that set up. Both good products. Brierley head makes a huge power difference!

 

Doing the 5.5 head swap and will be finishing it up today .one helicoil in the block I gotta fix and it's got standard pistons.made my own head pullers and worked good.any thoughts or comments appreciated.

 

Did a final check of valve clearence and everything looked fine so went on and installed the valve cover.
Tomorrow I'll install the clutch, adjust the clutch fingers and install the transmission.

 

First you have to separate,then partially clean and inspect,then identify the part,then go to the gear chart for the right combination,then final clean and polish,then assemble ..

this link gives you and idea of cluster gear identification and what goes with it..

http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_trans_clustergear-types.htm

People were abusing these trannys from the jump,damn near impossible to find a used cluster gear that some fool hasnt wrung the teeth off low gear..shifter forks too,they musta hung the baby off the shifter..

 

Got the head on with little trouble.fired right up!seems it needs more advance than before,gotta check it out.gonna run a couple heat cycles and retourque.then drive later today.