Maybe find a thick nut and cut the top into a castle style. Front axle nut (new cars stuff)?, strut rod bolt, maybe even a lug nut. Have to check sizes.
How about drilling plain nuts for a lock wire or pin? Sent from my moto g(8) power using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Aren't there concerns over the suitability (quality) of those spring perches being used in that style of application? The consensus seems to be to use originals. Chris
Found a company over here that lists them,but no price. If you would like me to find out a price let me know.
Thank you Phil for the 11/16-18 nuts. They came in today. I really appreciate your generosity. Thank you Fordors for the offer on your tap. I have one already And yes I will add a panhard bar because I’m staying with the cross steering like the ‘41 ford had. Using a Vega steering box and will probably add a steering stabilizer
Custom 11/16-18 Castle nuts. Just need to drill the cotter pin hole and trim a little off the end. Just want 2 to 3 threads exposed
Tony, how much room between your spring and tie rod? I have a very similar front suspension and I've got maybe 3/4". I'm still in build phase with the full weight of engine and trans and body on there. I haven't yet messed with the steering arms for ackerman yet, so I could move them down a little if needed when that time comes. My spindles are 40 Ford with the steering arms still in place.
1” is as tight as it will ever be on mine. That’s with the shackle fully vertical. I’m using ‘41 Ford spindles.
Don't know if anyone mentioned it but you can get them from Grainger or any number of industrial supply houses. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...ilters=attrs&usg=AOvVaw0vyUCq06p6H9cu_9-9PNub
Not sure why they show an 11/16" castle nut in their title, Grainger only shows the two 7/16" nuts as options, and ònly in pkgs of 710, no actual item number for 11/16.
If there was a little market for these I can get them made but my pal would probably want to make a 100 or so to make it worth while
it would weaken the nut as well as decreasing the amount of thread in contact with the bolt, ( which is probably why the castle nuts are generally longer ).
FYI, a great source of USA made taps and dies is " Wholesale Tool ". I just recently bought a 12-28 tap, $ 2.57,and a 3/8-32 tap, $ 7.14, from them to use on Stromberg carburetors. In the past, I also bought an 11/16-18 tap and die to clean up the threads on 1935-1936 Ford truck and passenger car headlights, as well as 1937-1941 Ford truck headlights. As far as I am concerned, they are the source for taps and dies. A great on-line catalog, as well as knowledgeable sales people when you call looking for the odd-ball sizes, and great service, with same day shipping if you call before 1:00 PM, too.
Hey Phil. I haven’t worked on the ‘32 in a few months. I got frustrated with the wide 5 wheels after they came back from powder coating. They look horrible with fish eyes everywhere. I’m probably going to stick with the 1940 wheels. I’ve been saving up for the brookville body pieces.
There are several bodies available here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search/306026295/?q=Brookville&o=relevance&c[node]=47
Help me out what is the reason for the threads? simply to remove the perch? I have a similar set-up on my car, spring behind the axle. Mine is welded through the wish bone, I used the old perch bolts cut off, but it looks upside down to what you have. My shackles sit around 43 degrees.
I wanted to fine tune the perch mount to be perfectly true with the spring at ride height, then tighten the nut and lock it in.
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