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Technical Can I get away with POR-15ing this?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by evintho, Sep 3, 2020.

  1. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,090

    gene-koning
    Member

    Years ago I did a lot of "pitted" areas with POR15. Then a few years later, I had the privilege of repairing some of those POR15 patch jobs. I will never do the POR 15 again. I haven't bought any POR15 for years. The POR15 really screws up the steel around the pitted area, its hard to clean off and really messes up the welds.
    Cut the pitted metal out and weld in a patch, or 4-5 years from now, you get to remove all the crap to plastered onto the pitted area and weld a patch in it then. Gene
     
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  2. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    So you weld a new piece in and you can't get to the backside of where you welded. Your new raw metal welds on the backside rust. You have not fixed it. You are prolonging the cancer. It's a never ending battle. BUT, you feel better doing it that way. Because we will be dead when the next guy fixes it. IF he does, lol:D Just do the best you can, cause no one else will. LOL
     
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  3. Lancer
    Joined: Jan 11, 2004
    Posts: 1,346

    Lancer
    Member

    DTM Direct to Metal primers that have rust neutralizers in them as well that work very good. Just don't prime it and let it sit around for years outside getting rained on. How long til it goes to paint? I would put that down as your base layer before starting body work once the metal work is done.
     
  4. Los_Control
    Joined: Oct 7, 2016
    Posts: 1,143

    Los_Control
    Member
    from TX

    Whole lotta truth spoken there. I am just a caretaker. I figure I pulled it out of the grave and put it back on the road. It is in better shape then I found it ... I just might laugh at the next caretaker after I am gone :p
    Once you cut the bad metal out, you can spray ospho to what you can reach anyways.
    It converts the rust to a paintable black primer, your choice to paint or not.


    That is good advice and I appreciate it. I may have used the wrong terminology in my description. I do not have pin holes, I have pits. I do not have a headliner, there is no daylight from pinholes. I throw out a picture of a fender. Complete front end is to bare metal and stored in my office. Bed will be the same when ready. Cab actually has paint in poor condition, easily sanded off to bare metal. Just the very tippy top of the cab, the roof just has multiple layers of surface rust. Rust is amazingly strong.
    I am actually very confident that my very first paint job will be crap. :)
     

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  5. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    You have pits. Once you remove the rust, you'll probably have holes. Best is cut and weld. And don't believe the crap about rust removers in primer. No way! A lot of guys use etch thinking it will eliminate the rust. Forget it. I've let strong muriatic acid sit on rust for hours and it doesn't remove it all! A little bit of acid in primer isn't going to do diddly.
     
  6. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,378

    evintho
    Member

    Ditched the POR idea. I just cut it out and replaced it with fresh metal. Done!

    IMG_2686.JPG

    IMG_2687.JPG
     
    reagen, Tickety Boo, Petejoe and 3 others like this.
  7. Los_Control
    Joined: Oct 7, 2016
    Posts: 1,143

    Los_Control
    Member
    from TX

    beautiful job just like the rest of your car, you will be happy.
     
  8. Yup.
     
  9. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Great job very nice
     
  10. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Nothing will replace the thickness of metal. Lippy
     
  11. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,270

    Budget36
    Member


    But it will stop the carnage.
     
  12. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    Exactly. Ive had it fail multiple times, using all of their prep products etc. Its Fn garbage, dont fall for the hype. Cut out the pitted area, or sandblast and etch with acid.
     
  13. Tutashen
    Joined: Aug 8, 2015
    Posts: 86

    Tutashen

    I use a brass brush on rust like that then a cloth soaked in white vinegar let it sit half hr or so then wash it off with baking soda an water real good turns the metal an whatever rust is left black so feels like i did something that day then i use dollar store 5 minute epoxy and cloth if there is a hole dunno how long it will last but sure to be much longer than me an the next guy can sand epoxy off if he wants ,when i was a kid we had por 15 it was newspaper stuffed in a hole covered with roofing tar sprayed with any paint we could get an sometimes bondo for critical parts i'm pretty sure home depot has all kinds of black spray rubber last forever stuff you could use as good as por 15 not sure if it's any better than newspaper an roofing tar though an about the same getting it off again or i have 4 welders an more tools than a man needs can weld it up real good an three yrs later be rusted to rat crap again because you didn't take the whole panel apart hey an coat it both sides after or during welding o well rust is a box of chocolates :)
     
  14. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 2,093

    spanners
    Member

    You've done it the right way. The backside needs a coat of something, anything will do just do it soon after welding. I try to wire brush the area behind even if it means making a long handled wire brush and painting with whatever leftover brush on enamel paint is laying around.
     

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