Technical ***September 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Four Months of 2020 to go***

@fine29 The length needs to be long enough to reach the ground with some left over so you can put out the fire and keep it off your foot.
I'm guessing you are referring to a brake like I had on my first coaster.
https://www.google.com/search?q=set...rome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_GytQX6U4wra0Bpmek4gE31
I don't know if the link will take you there.Pictures are better than words.
Good luck and there is more to the brake system than adjustment, but a good start.

 

@fine29 that's a nice lil roadster!

 

Thanks, it was restored in the 70’s and was the couples car they’d go on tours with.


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I’m here and my B short block is about finished. Putting Yapp’s Roof overhead on it.

 

Put her fenders back for she catches cold..dont use no stinking board remove rear brake rod at rear brake arm,gently push arm forward to remove slack,adjust rod to fit arm,reinstall rod,repeat on other side,front arms need to be 15 degrees forward,fully actuated when vertical.you need to shim the brake actuator pin to achieve that...but once you do,and the rears are done as above,jack up each wheel and adjust till you get a light drag...drive and adjust to where it skids the rears but doesn't pull...mechanical brakes are cool,but you have to play with them to get them right..

 

put a "teds kit" in it !!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks, it is a blast, unplanned and thrown together for a few days of clay pan(dry lake) racing.Red Dust Revival.. First 4banger I’ve had, won’t be the last.

Thanks, I like it, and my mate Spider comes a running on start up.He gets pissed when he’s not the one in the passengers seat.
I’ve followed and enjoyed your build thread. Great car.

Still smiling.

Thanks, honestly just thrown together really, been on a trailer though, for a 800 mile round trip out to the edge of the desert for a few days of racing.
Haven’t cleaned the old girl since , the Red Dust is abit of a badge and comes from racing on Lake Perkolilli, one of Australia’s earliest and still used natural race tracks, exactly how it was 100+ years ago.

 

Yes, I started to say that and more, but I just decided to answer the OP's question. You are correct.
Then there is the 'steel drums expand when they get hot' discussion along with take out all the slop with worn components. Yes, Teds floaters and installing cast iron drums
I think I made a waggon jack out of my 'board'

 

Boards are for building shit,ya gotta pull the slack out before you can adjust.cast iron drums and and woven shoes? yup.

 

Blown head gasket
Time to freshen it up. I'm still finding mud from the dirt drags three years ago... good memories

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Here is a picture of the brake helper I made from scrap lumber. You can make your to push against the seat and brake pedal with enough friction to hold the pedal at 1", 2" , 3" etc. There are many web sites with instructions on how to adjust brakes. I have provided a link to one. http://www.lionsgatemodelaclub.com/Technical Tips/Service Brake Adjustment.PDF

The adjustment of Model A Ford brake is very involved, not quite as easy as off the rail suggests.

 

What works for me might not work for you,sorry about your skill level

 

You guys sure have some GR8 cars !!!!!!

 

my body is ready to pick up!

 

Hello Fellas,

So my buddy beat me to this engine on Craigslist. We would appreciate any info anyone might have on how to prep for firing it. What should we look for or make sure to do? He has not pulled the pan yet but plans to. Curious on routing oil to the rockers? Any ideas on the front cover? I’ve never seen one like it and can’t find any info online. Thanks for any help.

Cheers,
Hance.

 

Thanks for this info,will be a great help.

 

Bob McKinney passed away 10 ? years ago. He made some real heavy duty stuff.



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Hance,
no worries, the oil lines up to lube the rockers typically were fed into the casting bosses just under the covers on the dist side of head. Those look like never drilled or welded closed.
The REM cover is actually the oil pump, the bolt and jam nut should be pressure adjustment.
Drop the pan and make sure pickup is free of debris.

J

 

Thanks for replying and the good info guys. Do you know if there’s any manuals for setting valve lash on the rockers and torque specs for the head?

Hance.

 

Hance,

I'll let someone else answer the rocker lash issue
The torque specs though are pretty simple, do no exceed 55ft# on the head studs.
Some people will go up to 70 but you will be starting to distort the deck of the block.

John

 

I was just reminded by Facebook that I started on this build 11 years ago!

We are getting close to a running chassis. All the Father & Son time together working on this together has been well worth it.




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Hance, I don't remember who fixed this photo for me but they oiled the rockers thru the valve cover stud with a banjo type fitting. You can also oil by drilling the rocker assembly. Return oil thru pushrod holes. As far as valves I run one of Brierley cams and valves are set at intakes .010 and exhaust .014 Jim would be a good one to talk to about 4 ports.

 

Thank you again fellas for the help. Sent Jim a email waiting to hear back.

Hance.

 

I made the Riley picture. There is another way to add oil thru the rocker stand.

I am currently sitting on the side of the road with a B fuel pump issue. Wife is coming with the trailer. Whoever asked last month about the B pump plumbing I recommend to buy an electric pump.

 

I wonder if you will still recommend elec when it's fixed & nostalgia has kicked back in! Haha. Hope you get home ok!

 

had the same dilemma during lockdown when I used the Coupe to go to work one day. Had to do the last two miles on the end of a rope. When I looked for my electric pump I eventually found it neatly packaged and ready to fit in the corner of the trunk.

it hadn’t leaked through but I guess the diaphragm started to break down. NOS fitted about ten years ago.

 

My dad worked in the Ford garage in Sioux Falls in the 30's. He told me those early fuel pumps needed a diaphragm every 5 or 6 thousand miles, sometimes you could get 10,000 if you didn't use the car in the winter months. Natural rubber bonded to cotton fabric I suppose, about like the tires.

 

my GPA worked for henry in Detroit . i miss him ........

 

The '29 Roadster is getting a head gasket and rings. Forgot today is a holiday... Parts tomorrow then
Happy Labor Day

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Hopefully you are home by now Martin.
I really like this pump www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-426
1.5 to 4 PSI and it doesn't require a regulator. It just doesn't build any more pressure after the float needles seat.
I'm running it on Stromberg '81's without an external regulator. No flooding or leaking.

Good luck