Technical Valve Adjustment, Running or Not ?

I have done a few valve adjustments through the years (mostly Ford)
I always did them with the motor not running.

I have seen many times guys doing them with the motor running. Much quicker job.
Some made a mess and some didn't.
I especially wouldn't do it on a clean detailed motor.

What is your preference?

 

I've done hydraulics both ways. Solids I've only done with the engine off.

 

I like a hot lash. I guess that's how I come up.
I try to get them adjusted close cold and then do a running hot lash to fine tune it. I use a valve cover with the top cut out. This way, it's pretty clean.

When I have tried to set them cold, I'm always off a little and I end up doing a hot lash anyway.

 

redoing a older Engine.. Running with one of these

 

Seems like always one ticking, so running is best way to find the noisy one.

 

You don't say...hydraulic or solid..!

Hydraulic - hot and running.
Solid - cold (overnight cold) and NOT running.

Mike

 

From my Husband Kerry [Kerrynzl]
I watched him set the lifters on my Chevy when being assembled.

He has never had any luck with the pushrod spinning technique. [he can still spin them with the valves wide open]

Get a piece of Brazing rod /wire and bend 90° approx 1/4" from the end
Measure thickness with a micrometer, and then hammer the end flat until you get 0.030" [the amount of preload]
You now have a tool [feeler gauge] to place between the wire circlip and the plunger on the hydraulic lifter. It slips down beside the pushrod and you try and slip/twist it under [adjusting the rocker accordingly]

On my Chevy, he set the lifters this method!
The engine was quiet.

An old engine re-conditioner /machinist show him this technique

 

I still have a few self modified valve covers for doing lifters. All my fun engines are now equipped with hydraulic lifters. I preset them cold, then check them with the engines running. Much less mess with the modified covers.
Still use a P&G valve gapper, (yeah, I'm that old). The only vehicles I have that require adjusting the rockers, are O/T, and I do them cold.
Bob

 

With a new engine I adjust mine cold. This is the way "Chevy" View attachment 4805617 did it. I don't think GM started every engine and adjusted the valves before going out the door?

 

there are clips you put on the rockers (chevy) so they won't shoot oil 20 feet!

 

Hydraulics can be done running although I prefer to to them with the engine shut off. Solids running is a damned good way to ruin a feeler gauge.

 

Not running

 

(I would like to add that I only go 3/4 turn from 0 lash NOT the 1 turn as suggested)

 

I thought SBC’s had 2 stops on the crank where you set all 16. Haven’t used it in years but I remember my old motors manuals had it.
I do my racing engine cold + .002” and when I check them hot they are always correct or “right” on.... They are never “spot” on because I’ve never raced in England.

 

early SBF:
#1TDC IN 1378 EX 1245
#6TDC IN 2456 EX 3678

SBC's same cylinders but labelled different and 90* offset (can't remember which way)

 

That method works as well. It takes more time but I prefer to start on number one (doesn't really matter but this way I don't forget a hole) and crank the engine until the exhaust valve starts up, at that time you adjust the intake valve on that cylinder. You have a sip of refreshment whilst the lifter relaxes (it is rather relaxing for you as well), back off the nut, tighten it as you spin the rod in your fingers, when snug, stop, add a 1/2 to 3/4 turn to set the lifter in it's travel. Then crank the engine until the intake is nearly down, and adjust the exhaust valve using the same method. It is now evident why I start on number one and work my way back on the head, as 16 sips of refreshment later you may miss a hole or two and not realize it..or care for that matter until you seal up the covers and fire it up.

 

I've just been through this with the 327 in my Corvette. Cold and not running is fine. It takes a little practice to find zero lash from spinning the pushrods, but it is an easily learned skill. If the engine has a mild cam, you can do it in two steps (#1 at TDC and #6 at TDC), but if you have any kind of a hot cam, do it in four steps (as above) to be sure. After I got them to zero lash, another 3/4 turn got them where they should be. Setting them while the engine running is real messy. no matter what you do, and unnecessary.

Here's my thread : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/adjusting-sbc-valves-cold.1203125/.

 

I have always adjusted valves hot/running for solid lifters.....long go/no-go feelers........Y-blocks and SBCs, not on flatheads (for obvious reasons).....the feelers get pretty beat up, so need to be replaced frequently.....no big cost for accurate settings. Cold/not running for hydraulics.

 

I always set the valves on my Y-blocks hot and running; everything else has run hydraulic lifters or are non-adjustable...

 

The reason the Chevy engine shoots oil 20 feet is the fact as pushrods wear, the opening gets larger. Allowing more oil through. Replace the pushrods.

 

I've always used a P&G valve-gapper, on my solid-lifter SBC. Its old but accurate and quick. I warm up the engine, make sure the battery is fully charged, remove the valve covers, pull the coil wire to prevent starting and use a remote starter switch to go to each cylinder and adjust each valve while cranking the engine. In my case, clearance at each valve is .016 hot, so order/sequence is not critical.

 

I set them however the shop manual says.
If it gives options for both running and non-running, I would choose the former. I don't like the splattering oil.