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Technical Need help with headlight mounting

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by dmdeaton, Sep 1, 2020.

  1. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    I mounted my headlights on top of the shocks with a cut down model A bar across the model A grill shell when I first built this. Now that I swapped out to a 32 grill shell and lost the cross bar. The headlights have tons of vibration and look like crap. I am going back to the larger A headlights and cannot see a good way to mount these separate.
    Are my shocks too long? I cannot figure out what’s different. You guys do this all the time and I am stumped. My thought are to fabricate my own stands a little taller.
    6D866084-1099-4437-B219-FD05F30E5960.jpeg B5EDB019-41CC-4BB8-B37C-ADDC5B481450.jpeg E2B490BC-A654-4FC6-AEAA-157A52092A81.jpeg
     
  2. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    I like those
     
  3. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,188

    clem
    Member

    Obviously....... were they always like this ? If so how did they work? if not what have you changed?
    Sorry, but I can’t follow the rest of your post. Do you have a before picture ? Or is it the bottom picture ?
     

  4. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 655

    Little Terry
    Member

    Why dont you use the stainless stands you have, but cut the base and rotate the stands 90 degrees to point frowards.
     
  5. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    The shocks in the pics have been on the build from the beginning. No problems with the shocks at all, the reason for asking if they are too tall is to clear the headlights if I separate the brackets. I may need to go to shorter shocks.

    Terry, I think they will still be too short and hit the shock tops. I thought about making new ones from scratch and buying the cups to weld up, but I think they will be too high. I ordered a set of weld on combination brackets and I think they may work better. My cheapo angle iron brackets I milled out are bolted against the rubber on the shock top and vibrate like a rubber band..
     
  6. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

  7. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 655

    Little Terry
    Member

    I would shorten the upper shock mount and fit the light stands like I mentioned in my last post. That way you reduce the vibration on the shocks and separate the lights. That setup is pretty much what I am putting on my car, but I plan to run the headlight bar accross the front of my rad.
     
  8. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    I have a headlight bar hanging somewhere now that you mention it. I will dig it out tonight and see where that gets me. I will need shorter shocks for sure.
     
  9. jimvette59
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,107

    jimvette59
    Member

    I think you have the stainless one in the second picture on the wrong side of the car. ?
     
  10. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 4,968

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    IMG_6488.JPG Heat up the headlight bracket and bend it 90 * , cut it long enough to clear the top end of the shock , then weld it on top of the bend of the shock mount . just a suggestion.
     
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  11. low down A
    Joined: Feb 6, 2009
    Posts: 500

    low down A
    Member

    are you just guessing on the shocks you need? the correct way to determine your shock is to have the mount's you are going to use, and you pull the shock all the way out, end of travel then push shock allthe way in, bottom of travel. that distance divided in half is where shock mount's go. go with the crossbar no matter what mount you use just look's right
     
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  12. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    Yes, I tried both ways
     
  13. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    yes, I just bought the Pete and Jake shocks and bent the F1 brackets. They favor the top of travel and not the middle with these brackets. I know the brackets could be shorter. I am new at all this so that is why I ask.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2020
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  14. ydopen
    Joined: Mar 14, 2010
    Posts: 230

    ydopen
    Member

    I used short P&J shocks. I shortened an F1 bracket and welded on a the end of a Model A light bar.
    No vibration driving. 5978C269-9803-4038-AA31-D925DDC454F5.jpeg
     
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  15. 2NDCHANCE
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 997

    2NDCHANCE
    Member

    With the rubber bushing on the shock top the headlight mount is never really bolted tight. Come off the metal shock mount with something welded solid. Or cut the stainless headlight mount to do what you need. Good luck, I love trying to figure out what looks good and what works right. Gary
     
  16. low down A
    Joined: Feb 6, 2009
    Posts: 500

    low down A
    Member

    give those uncovered street rod shock's you have to a streetrodder and get the correct covered shock's that look right on a early 4cyl hotrod as your's is.
     
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  17. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    that is the ticket, I like this. Now how to shorten the F1 brackets. Cut a good miter joint for the weld? Or something like a dovetail? I will sub this weld to someone other than me. :(
     
    low down A likes this.
  18. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    I ordered a set. :)
     
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  19. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    Thanks so far guys, not dead set but have a plan. Love this forum
     
  20. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    61DE6C95-D94F-476E-B45C-F26E232FE5A8.jpeg 366D80E9-EBC1-4A11-8D6C-01065EEE78E8.jpeg 1A1F64E8-A90E-4A7D-91C5-C51AD15E25A5.jpeg bar Is temporary until I get my shocks and modify the F1 stands. Which headlights?
     
  21. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    I want to pop the rivets, clean up the plate and replace the bolt. Standard carriage bolts work?
    C9F0F746-D875-4789-A128-4A444F881409.jpeg
     
  22. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,366

    31Apickup
    Member

    I did a set of Guide headlights recently, ground the rivets down and knocked them out. The mounting bolts were in bad shape. Used replacement stainless screws that have a rounded head with no slot which I found for Model A headlight restoration in the Snyder’s catalog. Also used new mounting bolts for the same. These photos on my thread 31a pickup build a a 31 coupe.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  23. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,366

    31Apickup
    Member

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Here’s the photos, I’ve since blasted and epoxy primer them.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  24. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    I think they are the same length Snyder’s sells. And my model A headlights are fine.
     
  25. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    I haven't had time, but want to modify a pair of model A rumble hinges to make a pair of headlight stands...
    mount the outer screw hole tabs [4 per side] to the frame siderails…
    heat red and bend the inner screw hole tabs [2 per side] to sit flat on top of the frame... making it a 90* mount.
    weld a model A style H/L mounting cup [from a plow truck] on top of the pivot hole...
    while still red hot bend the cup flat to the axle, but you must tilt the cups forward or model A lights won't adjust down enough…
    they should mount rigid and not vibrate as bad as some A conversions... front shock mounts ? rumbler 1.jpg
     
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  26. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,366

    31Apickup
    Member

    The bolt lengths are perfect, I’m using a cut down 32 headlight bar.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  27. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    Tilt the cups forward for sure. As for shocks, I have not firmly decided yet. Mine have been on since I got it on the road, only 2 seasons with not much driving. It rides like a stiff haywagon. I only ride around local country roads mostly and dont go far. For a banger hotrod the local guys tell me to lose the shocks. I took them off and will drive it this weekend to see the difference. If all goes well, I will concentrate on just the light mounts.
     
  28. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    my brother and a I had a former auto shop teacher that said ; never buy heavy duty shocks for an old beater... the almost dead shocks are what you need...
    we joked it was straight from the horse's mouth...
    with 20 years time it morphed into straight from the horse's arse…
    I never buy heavy duty for a streetrod !
     

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