I bought a 1950 Lincoln that has the automatic transmission that I am guessing is the hydramatic (same/similar to the GMs?). I did get the engine running and brakes in it but the transmission is acting up. It has N, D, L, R and all are trying to go forward. Neutral , drive, low all go forward and reverse acts like it is stuck in forward and reverse at the same time. I haven't driven it very far yet, but had it up and down the road a couple days ago. It does not slip and goes into 2nd after a couple trips,,,didn't shift at first, but then did. I haven't gone fast/far enough to see if it will hit 3rd or 4th. I have warmed it up good and put some TransX in it but it still seems the same. I was thinking it was maybe a sticky valve or something. There is a rod attached to the throttle linkage that goes to the transmission and it is moving freely. Could that be any of the problem or does anyone have any clues? I was just going to fix the car up a little and resell it, so don't want to spend a ton overhauling the trans. but it would be easier to sell if it would work. Any help appreciated as usual. Thanks a lot.
Unless things are all sticky inside (sounds like yours is), it should shift through all gears and be in 4th by about 18-20mph under light throttle. Reverse is just 1st gear driven through the reversing epicyclic- that takes a fair bit of pressure to engage, have you checked the fluid level? If that's low it may not have enough pressure (or if the seals have gone, flow, to engage). The linkage to the throttle is just a hydraulic valve and is unsprung; without the engine running it offers no resistance to motion, that is normal. The governor on mine would stick causing the 1-2 change to be much higher speed than it should, then dump straight to 4th. But first, check the fluid level. You can also see if R is engaging properly on the linkage- with the engine off, select R and the car should lock in a "park" style fashion, you should have the lash in the rear end and propshaft but no more movement than that. The shifter is adjusted correctly if that's good. Edit: The detents that the shifter move to are governed by the gearbox, not by the shift lever. They should line up with the indicator positions. Check the fluid level first and move on from there. Phil
Agreed with @PhilA Start with flushing the fluid and replacing with proper Type A fluid. Normal ATF is not right for these transmissions. 1st and reverse are controlled by one band, so if the car is driving in first gear without major slippage, then it doesn't sound like the band is the issue. I bet you have a gummed up valve body. I'd drive it around and let the fluid circulate. Lots of stops and starts to get things moving. Some additive might help to break up the varnish. Drain and replace the fluid again and see if that helps your reverse issue. Start simple and then dig in further from there.
Run it with the rear wheels off the ground, so you don't burn anything up.. Once it starts shifting and running well and has been running at operation temperature take it down and run it very easily.
In 1950 the Hydro's were still using the mechanical reverse locking pawl... the rear cone clutch didn't happen until '52.
That was helpful,,,and fun! Just like taking a ride in a cool old car. I'm afraid my trans needs a rebuild, seems like bad internal seals are the issue. But, thanks for the info and ride along.
Thanks for all of the suggestions. Seems like it is a more serious issue like bad internal seals. So, I will leave it up to the next owner (if it sells). There are adapters to put Chevy transmissions behind this Lincoln V8, so that might be an option that would be less expensive in the long run and would be dependable. So, it is up for sale, to be listed on this site soon. Thanks again. This site is the best place for good, honest advice.
If not, definitely point the new owner in the direction of Fatsco ( https://www.fatsco.net/ ) because they will have everything required to rebuild that transmission if the new owner fancies keeping it original. Mine was absolutely junked inside, now it works well. They're simple and reliable enough to use daily, though granted dropping in a TH-350 would provide more widespread parts and knowledge availability. Phil
PhilA is on the right track, I don't exactly recall but I do remember in the early hydro's that when in reverse and engine off that was Park. I'm not any help but it is a direction. Pat
Yes, when stopped, you put the car in reverse and shut it off. Pressure bled down and the parking pawl dropped into place.
The early Hydro's are just not that hard to work on... Parts from Fatsco, a good manual and there you go. Though having the band adjustment tools and a couple of big C-clamps helps.
If you are going to rebuild it on the bench, you can easily make the adjustment tools. Only for if you're trying to adjust them with the gearbox installed does it require the twist-n-lock special tools. Don't forget the snap ring pliers and ring compressor, and a good dial gauge to measure the lash. Everything else is just regular shop tools (wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers etc). Phil
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